nitrate and phosphate

[bryan oestreich]

so quick question. I have a regular reading of nitrates in the 20-30ppm range and phosphate .03-.1ppm. can not get them lower. my food isn't the problem. my live rock could be but I want to get some advice before I start pulling live rock out and testing the rock or heavily cleaning it.

my filtration is a protein skimmer that is rated just a little higher than the tank I have (60g tank - 75gal protein skimmer) it skims dark brown pretty regularly so I believe the skimmer works good. and I run a aquaclear 70 with a bag of carbon and the square sponge filters they come with.

so I need to get those nutrients down cause I battle with algae a lot and I clean my tank every week 15-20% weekly WC and scrub glass weekly. and blow rocks off right before water changes. my water is good ive tested multiple times (RODI water and mix my own salt). is it possible my aquaclear is keeping the nutrients higher? is there a way to run maybe a filter sock or some sort in the tank to pick up unwanted debri.just don't know how to go about adding a filter sock anywhere? or if that is even worth it. would I be better off without the AC 70. if so how do I run my carbon?

any ideas would be great
thanks

 

[reeferfoxx]

so quick question. I have a regular reading of nitrates in the 20-30ppm range and phosphate .03-.1ppm. can not get them lower. my food isn't the problem. my live rock could be but I want to get some advice before I start pulling live rock out and testing the rock or heavily cleaning it.

my filtration is a protein skimmer that is rated just a little higher than the tank I have (60g tank - 75gal protein skimmer) it skims dark brown pretty regularly so I believe the skimmer works good. and I run a aquaclear 70 with a bag of carbon and the square sponge filters they come with.

so I need to get those nutrients down cause I battle with algae a lot and I clean my tank every week 15-20% weekly WC and scrub glass weekly. and blow rocks off right before water changes. my water is good ive tested multiple times (RODI water and mix my own salt). is it possible my aquaclear is keeping the nutrients higher? is there a way to run maybe a filter sock or some sort in the tank to pick up unwanted debri.just don't know how to go about adding a filter sock anywhere? or if that is even worth it. would I be better off without the AC 70. if so how do I run my carbon?

any ideas would be great
thanks

What size tank do you have? How old is it? How many fish? Any coral? What type of algae are you dealing with?

GFO, if ran properly, can absorb any leaching po4.

inTank makes media baskets for the AC70 filter to allow more filter media.

 

[bryan oestreich]

What size tank do you have? How old is it? How many fish? Any coral? What type of algae are you dealing with?

GFO, if ran properly, can absorb any leaching po4.

inTank makes media baskets for the AC70 filter to allow more filter media.

60 gallon tank 48Lx24Hx13W.
leopeard wrasse
true perc clown
purple dottyback
pajama cardinal
chalk bass

hammer coral
Kenya tree
monti cap
and a couple softies cant think of names at the moment ha

green hair algae
diatoms

tank is just a little bit over a year now

 

[reeferfoxx]

Clean up crew?

 

[hawkinsrgk]

When I had nitrate problems it was related to the sand. Once I removed the sand, nitrates went from 80 to 2. I agree that GFO should be able to handle the phosphate. Sometimes it will handle it too well and strip the tank.

 

[bryan oestreich]

When I had nitrate problems it was related to the sand. Once I removed the sand, nitrates went from 80 to 2. I agree that GFO should be able to handle the phosphate. Sometimes it will handle it too well and strip the tank.

dont say the sand. thats the only thing i didnt factor in. how would i know if its the sand what can i do and if it is bad what is the process of replacing the sand

 

[bryan oestreich]

clean up crew is pretty small.
1 clean shrimp
1 coral banded shrimp
1 peppermint shrimp
like 6 or something trochus snails
2 super tongan nassurius snails however you spell it
2 crabs cant think of there names
1 scarlet crab
1 bristle starfish i think thats the name. he's got really long legs with black and white stripe pattern
i think thats all for the CUC

 

[hawkinsrgk]

Not sure how you would know if it is the sand. I fought with nitrates for several months before coming to that conclusion. To remove the sand, if you take a 1/2 acrylic tube and connect it to a hose you can syphon it out. I was so glad that resolved the issue I have decided to never put sand in a tank. So with that being said don't know the best way to add sand back. I have seen people use pvc to add it back, but never did it myself.

 

[reeferfoxx]

clean up crew is pretty small.
1 clean shrimp
1 coral banded shrimp
1 peppermint shrimp
like 6 or something trochus snails
2 super tongan nassurius snails however you spell it
2 crabs cant think of there names
1 scarlet crab
1 bristle starfish i think thats the name. he's got really long legs with black and white stripe pattern
i think thats all for the CUC

I recommend 1 Astrea or Trochus per 2 or 3 gallons and 1 turbo per 15 gallons. Maybe add about 5 or hermit crabs also. That should take care of the algae.
Water changes will remove nitrates but not phosphates. FWIW 20ppm for no3 is high but not detrimental. If your alk is high enough it will help coral uptake nutrients for export.
Just take it slow, start with the clean up crew then move on to no3 and po4. Don't remove all the no3 and po4. Coral need some.

 

[gln826]

I suffer from the same as the OP. Today, I removed half of the 1.5" variable depth sand bed I had, as my cyano problem was begnning to overtake my tank, and I have been battling cyano for the past 4 months. Starting to remove the sand was a desperate attempt to end this issue after using phosguard, reducing light times, rinsing frozen foods prior to feeding, reducing food, GFO and socks (I have a Red Sea Reefer 350). I did a 20% water change after the sand removal. Tomorrow I will test nitrates and phosphates to see what if any improvement results.

 

[Griff]

I suffer from the same as the OP. Today, I removed half of the 1.5" variable depth sand bed I had, as my cyano problem was begnning to overtake my tank, and I have been battling cyano for the past 4 months. Starting to remove the sand was a desperate attempt to end this issue after using phosguard, reducing light times, rinsing frozen foods prior to feeding, reducing food, GFO and socks (I have a Red Sea Reefer 350). I did a 20% water change after the sand removal. Tomorrow I will test nitrates and phosphates to see what if any improvement results.

Were you using phosguard in a reactor or bag?

 

[bryan oestreich]

i do 15 gallon WC weekly for 3 weeks and i do a 20 gal WC once a month. my nitrates never show higher than 30ppm and i never see it under 10ppm. once in a great moon it will be at the low end. ive never seen my phosphate at 0ppm im using salifert for phosphate and API for nitrate.

i will upgrade my CUC and i know it cant be the food cause i under feed. due to crabs killing my snails for food and not shells. once a day i feed just enough for the fish to eat.

my water is clean i have even spoke with LFS and have seen there setup and there records for filter changes on there RO/DI system. all my tests come up 0 with there water and i mix my own salt and same readings after mixing.

ive physically taken out about 85% of my live rock into clean RO/DI saltwater and scrubs and blown over everything i could. tests still show the same i just did the rock cleaning last week as a new idea to find the source of high nutrients.

ALK is usually around 7-8dkh salinity 1.025, ph 7.9, nitrite 0ppm, nitrates 20-30ppm, phosphate .03-.05, temp 78

 

[bryan oestreich]

I recommend 1 Astrea or Trochus per 2 or 3 gallons and 1 turbo per 15 gallons. Maybe add about 5 or hermit crabs also. That should take care of the algae.
Water changes will remove nitrates but not phosphates. FWIW 20ppm for no3 is high but not detrimental. If your alk is high enough it will help coral uptake nutrients for export.
Just take it slow, start with the clean up crew then move on to no3 and po4. Don't remove all the no3 and po4. Coral need some.

that many snails? i really dont like turbos as they tend to die fast. ive had them die to quite for my liking.

 

[gln826]

Were you using phosguard in a reactor or bag?

bag

 

[reeferfoxx]

that many snails? i really dont like turbos as they tend to die fast. ive had them die to quite for my liking.

Hmmm. Usually Turbos like hair algae? Hermits like hair algae too. I've never had trochus snails but the astreas I have chow down on diatoms.

ALK is usually around 7-8dkh salinity 1.025, ph 7.9, nitrite 0ppm, nitrates 20-30ppm, phosphate .03-.05, temp 78

I think your parameters actually look good? If you are keeping only LPS and softies. If you want SPS or higher demanding coral you need to get NO3 <10ppm. Raising Alk to 8.5 - 9.5dkh would increase growth and help absorb nutrients. Just some suggestions.

 

[bryan oestreich]

Hmmm. Usually Turbos like hair algae? Hermits like hair algae too. I've never had trochus snails but the astreas I have chow down on diatoms.

I think your parameters actually look good? If you are keeping only LPS and softies. If you want SPS or higher demanding coral you need to get NO3 <10ppm. Raising Alk to 8.5 - 9.5dkh would increase growth and help absorb nutrients. Just some suggestions.

I guess I didn't ha e any hair algae when I had the turbos so maybe that why. I'll try the CUC idea out and see if it helps

I have one sps a monti cap I believe it's like a orangish plate but my hammer coral has split heads from 2 to bout like 7 I think I counted in just a few months and my hair mushrooms has split into 2 lately so my coral seems good

 

[reeferfoxx]

I guess I didn't ha e any hair algae when I had the turbos so maybe that why. I'll try the CUC idea out and see if it helps

I have one sps a monti cap I believe it's like a orangish plate but my hammer coral has split heads from 2 to bout like 7 I think I counted in just a few months and my hair mushrooms has split into 2 lately so my coral seems good

The more the corals grow, the more calcium and alkalinity they are absorbing. Make sure your water changes are providing enough. Test Alk and Ca. frequently. If you see a drop then you will know when you need to start dosing.

 

[Bdog4u2]

Grow some cheato and if your tank is more than a few years old pull the rock and shake it in saltwater to get all the crud that in the inside

 

[Debramb]

FYI, I checked forum rules, I think I'm safe saying this: I found a site with step-by-step DIY turning an AquaClear 70 into a Refugium. It's on site: Nano-Reef-com, Title: El Fab's Simple Guide to Pico Tanks
I love the reef jar ideas and found this cool.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

so quick question. I have a regular reading of nitrates in the 20-30ppm range and phosphate .03-.1ppm. can not get them lower. my food isn't the problem. my live rock could be but I want to get some advice before I start pulling live rock out and testing the rock or heavily cleaning it.

I don't know what you mean by food not being a problem (and it may not be an unusually large amount, for sure), but unless you are using tap water, it is the source of both.

You just need more export. There are many good ways.