Nitrate level with full Triton Method
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It's not in the guide as we do not have a set point for Nitrate.
Different systems can run at different levels depending on many factors such as tank inhabitants or what you want to achieve as far as colours etc... A full SPS system may run better at a different level when compared to a LPS system or a softy tank..
Different systems can run at different levels depending on many factors such as tank inhabitants or what you want to achieve as far as colours etc... A full SPS system may run better at a different level when compared to a LPS system or a softy tank..
Kenpro
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ok, tought that a ratio was necessary between the two to get a solid balance. Asked you before about algae species and you recommend as many as possible for full nutrient export. In the highly regarded brs tv episodes they outline chaeto as a good algae since caulerpa and many more can get sexual and have negative sides to them in the display, how do I avoid that happen or isnt a big deal? Should just fill up my tank in a weeks time and have to decide on what species going in
Caulerpa in my experience will go sexual as a last ditched attempt at survival, meaning if it is not getting what it needs in way of nutrients/light. I have probably only ever seen it happen once in a Triton system and that was most likely down to the system being a zero NO3 for a prolonged time which starved the algae. So with that said I would not overly concern myself, you should be aware of what could happen if you do not manage your system correctly but not worry too much.
Kenpro
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Ok IM getting pestfree caulerpa and chaeto from a company called koralsea, i will look at other species to get but find it hard here in Sweden but DeJong has some red species, will tall to my lfs
KoralSea Algae is great
Kenpro
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Thinking of another thing, the macroalgae wants carbondioxide to grow, going all in on my new tank i bought co2 scrubber called skimbreeze to polish the skimmer intake air from co2 and get higher ph numbers. Is this counteractive to this system since im rubbing the algae for co2? I have used with other metohods with great results.
Also got a tips here on this forum that beginning with troton core7 other methods in the startup to get less algae outbreak in the tank, is this something you know work or what do you recommend
Also got a tips here on this forum that beginning with troton core7 other methods in the startup to get less algae outbreak in the tank, is this something you know work or what do you recommend
CO2 scrubbers are not a good idea with Core7.
Firstly Core7 requires the C atom when creating Alkalinity and removing it from the system reduces the performance of the solutions. This can cause you to have to use more Core7 to get the same performance.
Secondly as the CO2 has a purpose in the system it is a waste of money on equipment and having to replenish the media all the time trying to remove it.
Firstly Core7 requires the C atom when creating Alkalinity and removing it from the system reduces the performance of the solutions. This can cause you to have to use more Core7 to get the same performance.
Secondly as the CO2 has a purpose in the system it is a waste of money on equipment and having to replenish the media all the time trying to remove it.
Kenpro
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Ok, i got the feeling when using it without refugium and and another brand of liquid dosing that my corals grow faster when keeping ph at 8,3-8,4 but i can be wrong, but these numbers maybe are already there with this system when working at properly. Good to have you guys to learn from and make the journey smoother
Kenpro
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When starting up the system, other method uses bacteria and carbonsources etc for a fast cycling period, how do triton see on this? Just mature as it is? Also bacteria dosing like Microblift special blend or therapy is this something that can be dosed to help the vitality and biology of the system longterm or not necessary or harmful. Thinking of the stories of monoculture in the liverock after long time in aquarium etc
Tank cycling should be carried out as you would normally, with an eye on what products you are using for possible contaminants etc. For me the best way is the setup using natural seawater, mature with chosen method (bacteria/natural whichever way you choose) and once the tank has finished it's cycle then send away for an ICP. With that information you can carry out any water changes required before adding corals and starting dosing... If you do it the other way round you can end up chasing your tail and livestock could suffer along the way..
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Hi Tim.. just looking over my old test on my system. I am sending some in tomorrow. But I noticed I do not see any thing for nitrite or nitrate. Is it just because my test that I am looking at was done back in 2016. Or do you not test for nitrate and if now why?
We do not test for Nitrate with the ICP for a number of reasons. Firstly it is not possible to test for Nitrate with an ICP, secondly, well I could actually stop there lol but I won't.
We will only offer an element or in this case a parameter if we feel that it has a true value to the aquarist, we see this as either something that is not able to be tested for by themselves or be of far greater acuracy than can be tested for. In the case of Nitrate we feel that with current technolgy there is no greater accuracy to be found by sending in a sample to the lab and that the aquarist has a greater value and that the results found from testing at source are of more use.
With all that being said we are always looking at new technolgies and creating new methods to try and find more useful data for the aquarist...
We will only offer an element or in this case a parameter if we feel that it has a true value to the aquarist, we see this as either something that is not able to be tested for by themselves or be of far greater acuracy than can be tested for. In the case of Nitrate we feel that with current technolgy there is no greater accuracy to be found by sending in a sample to the lab and that the aquarist has a greater value and that the results found from testing at source are of more use.
With all that being said we are always looking at new technolgies and creating new methods to try and find more useful data for the aquarist...
chicago
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i get that.. but to be frank.. it would be nice if your lab did it so we can compare to the colors we assume a certain levels with certain test kits. As you know one of your competitors does test for such. Then again who you deem to be competitors is another story. just my 2 cents worth.. thank you for you repose and clarification . Keep up the nice work...
