Nitrate Reduction Without Skimmer

[Mark Gray]

If you can add a good fuge I have problems keeping nutrients up in both my tanks. After I added a fuge it took about 6 months but DT algae is gone best thing I ever did, very low maintenance

 

[ikolbaba06]

Seachem matrix works very well for me. Just takes awhile for it to kick in. Be patient and follow the amount suggested per gallon. You will not be disappointed. Plus if you already have a canister filter you can add it into that no further equipment needed. Also it’s not too expensive.

 

[cwk84]

I love you man! lol Thank you so much for that detailed explanation! If I can get rid of my canister filter while still being able to use carbon I'd be the happiest man alive haha. I hate that thing. I clean it every 4 -5 days and it's a mess because I have to get rid of the water, mix new water, cut out filter floss etc. It's a pain.

 

[SteadyC]

I used to have a reactor with the wrap around lights, didn’t work great for me, cyano would just grow on the outside and the algae didn’t grow much, and they are a pain to clean. I’m not sure the wrap around lights put out enough PAR, to grow algae. I changed to this instead, dedicated a section of the back area for chaeto, and got two of these lights,
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/chaetomax-2-n-1-refugium-led-auqa-gadget-innovative-marine.html

No pump needed, no canister, no water going outside the tank. You just need a section of your filtration area, and two of these lights, I say two because I don’t think one is enough to out compete the display tank light.

 

[cwk84]

I can't do this with my main DT. The tank is 30 years old and from the Philippines. It's encased in bamboo with a rim on top that does not allow for any hang-on equipment. If I wanted to build a sump I'd have to destroy the whole thing and rill holes in the stand and what have you. My mother-in-law, who brought this tank to the U.S. from the Philipines, would KILL me.

With my nano tank, I did the same thing. But I got a cheaper light from Amazon.

This was 1 week ago. It has visibly grown:

No need to pay 70 dollars when you can get it for way cheaper Tank is still cycling by the way just in case you're wondering why I have a diatom outbreak. I wish I could do that with my main DT. That would save me so much time! I keep messing around with everything to keep the nutrients low. It's just annoying.

 

[cwk84]

+1 on the algae reactor

Here were the items I used:
1) Deepwater Aquatics Quattro Media Reactor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016E448OY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The above item is discontinued, but you could order an alternative
2) Two Little Fishies Ball Valve: https://www.amazon.com/Two-Little-F...D=41qkfH3l9dL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
3) Kedsum 320gph pump: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072C5YZ3C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4) LED grow light: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZTUYRA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
5) 1/2" vinyl tubing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DL0Y9O/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The build is very easy. Wrap the LED grow lights around the reactor and attach at the top and bottom with zip ties. Just put your pump in your tank where you want it. Cut an appropriate length of tubing to reach the intake (top-middle) of your reactor. Cut this tube into two pieces and attack the ball valve. This can be used for two purposes. (1) keep the water from siphoning when you turn off the pump and (2) adjust the amount of flow from the pump. Then run a piece of tubing from out outlet (top-side) of your reactor back to the tank. Place a ball of macro algae (like chaeto) into your reactor, then tighten the lid back down. Turn on the pump and let the reactor start running to ensure there will be no leaks when it fills and returns water to your tank. Then, plug the light in! I have my light on a timer so it runs in the evening when the display lights are off. Also, you could theoretically put a media bag with carbon into your reactor. You could potentially do away with your canister filter then.

Concerning your question about the algae die off, it is difficult for it to not have what it needs in the reactor. It is safe from predators, has a very intense and CLOSE light source (somewhere between 400 to 600 PAR with how close the light is), and has all available nutrients flowing through it. I did not have much luck growing chaeto in the sump for my 125, but the reactor grows it like crazy. If yours turns out like mine, there will be minimal growth for a week or maybe two, and then the growth will explode. I have to empty my reactor every 3 or so weeks so it doesn't get too full.

I hope this helps!

I'm ordering all the parts right now. How much flow should I let go through the reactor? It shouldn't be too much, right?

Also, I've been reading about heat issues with the LED strip. People have been reporting that the reactor cracks due to the heat from the LED's. Have you noticed anything?

 

[Reefs of Space]

Seachem matrix works very well for me. Just takes awhile for it to kick in. Be patient and follow the amount suggested per gallon. You will not be disappointed. Plus if you already have a canister filter you can add it into that no further equipment needed. Also it’s not too expensive.

I was going to suggest matrix too. I didn't have much success with my algae reactor. I found my HOB skimmer (coralife super skimmer) on Amazon for $70 warehouse deal.

 

[lapin]

If your still looking for a nitrate reduction and are not up to the reactor, you can try other macro algae. Red tang heaven and /or ulva can work better than chaeto in a tank. In your tank it would be easy to remove some once it grows. Just stay way from the caulerpa. Glue or rubberband some to a rock and place it behind your rockwork.

 

[cwk84]

I was going to suggest matrix too. I didn't have much success with my algae reactor. I found my HOB skimmer (coralife super skimmer) on Amazon for $70 warehouse deal.

Matrix is the same as live rock. It doesn’t work in a canister filter with 265gph. They even say that you should not have a lot of flow through it. Not beyond 50gph. That’s because the bacteria can’t break down the fish waste if the flow is too high.

 

[Reefs of Space]

Matrix is the same as live rock. It doesn’t work in a canister filter with 265gph. They even say that you should not have a lot of flow through it. Not beyond 50gph. That’s because the bacteria can’t break down the fish waste if the flow is too high.

Matrix works at any flow rate. At lower flow rates, it will work as both a nitrifying and denitrifying filter, removing ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. If the flow is above 50gph, then it will function as a nitrifying filter, removing ammonia and nitrites. A lot of people have success with it. It does just seem to be very porous rocks though, but whatever works.

 

[cwk84]

This is basically what I've said. I need to remove nitrate and phosphate and in that won't work in a high flow area. I ordered everything for the reactor. We'll see if it works or not.

 

[ikolbaba06]

It’s better than live rock. You do not need a lot of it to work on your nitrates. Now in terms of phosphate control it doesn’t do much or any so macro algae would be better.

 

[Pntbll687]

I would add more live rock/matrix until you achieve a complete nitrogen cycle.

You could use the canister filter, with something life matrix or marine pure balls or bricks if they would fit.

 

[Mag]

I currently have a 29 gallon tank with nitrate levels that bounce around with water changes. Usually between 15 to ~40ish. All of my other levels stay pretty consistent at good levels, though I do want to add a doser eventually for alk/cal once I have a few more corals utilizing it. Noticed some tissue recession on the stalks of my Euphyllias last night and when I tested, I had on the upper end of my nitrate range (I started feeding corals a little heavier). After a quick 5 gallon water change (~20+% after accounting for displacement), everything looked a lot happier. Since I plan on upgrading to a much larger system within a year or so, I do not really want to in invest in an HOB skimmer. I had been doing weekly water changes, but switched to bi-weekly when my torch looked happier at that interval. Going back to weekly.

What are the best ways to manage nitrates without a skimmer? I would like to maintain levels around 15ppm +-5ppm (my corals look VERY happy in this range). What absorbents/neutralizers actually work, and how do they work with maintaining levels rather than dropping them below my range?

I have a modified AC110 with the InTank media basket that has a free section, so some kind of media would be easy to add. I currently run ChemiPure Blue in one of the sections, but have yet to test my Phosphates (just received the Hannah Checker).

I like to use no pox from Red Sea very affective

 

[cwk84]

I would add more live rock/matrix until you achieve a complete nitrogen cycle.

You could use the canister filter, with something life matrix or marine pure balls or bricks if they would fit.

I suppose I could add them to the algea reactor. I can slow down the flow to 50gph. The good thing about the rector is that I can put everything in there including chaeto. With the canister filter I’m pretty limited.

 

[LbulletM]

You guys revived a 1yr+ old thread, lol. I have since carbon dosed and added a sump.

 

[cwk84]

I got all the parts on Thursday. The reactor has been running since then. The chaeto has grown by a lot in just three days but it has not removed any nutrients from the water. Maybe it's just expanding?! How long does it usually take for the reactor to kick in? My nitrates are still the same. Also, my water is extremely murky despite the carbon that's in the reactor. I used ROX 0.8 in my canister filter and it polished the water like crazy. Less contact time is even better so the reactor should polish the water even more. Maybe I should just pour the carbon in the reactor without a bag. I didn't want to do that because it's so fine.