Nitrate Test Kits???

Todd A.

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I'd appreciate some expert or non-expert opinions on NO3 test kits. I've had my 90 gallon DT up and running for just over a year and have had a constant battle with high Nitrate levels...or did I? I've used the standard API Saltwater Aquarium test kit since day 1, mainly because there just doesn't seem to be too many other options available at any of my local LFSs. Anyway, I've always had readings of 30 - 40+ even with regular WCs. I added a small bio-pellet reactor with no measurable results. I also added a MarinePure type porous block into my sump. Again, no changes. So finally I went out and dropped a few bucks on an ELOS NO3 test kit. WAY more expensive than the API, so in my feeble mind that makes it better, right? Well the test result was 1ppm Nitrate. ONE! Can someone explain how I can have one test kit read 40+ and the other is at 1??? I'm no genius, but I'm pretty sure I performed the tests correctly. It may be chemistry, but it's certainly not rocket science. Anyway, all feedback will be greatly appreciated.
 
Look at Red Sea or salifret for your No3 tests I have not messed with the EOS No3 test. I would suggest a media such and sprox, or life bio fil and run a small amount of Zeovit or Zoemix. I run a combination of Life bio fil and zeomix and my nitrates are in line and stay in line. I have ran the marine pure in the past with little success;)
Test can be expensive, but also losing a system to a crash can be expensive. A good test is worth the expense.
 
I use red sea, i've used salifert in the past. I typically pick red sea since you can buy reagent for cheaper. Also used tropic marine which was awesome but very expensive. Might want to take water to a LFS and ask them to test. See what they use. My best advice is to use what they use. If they are using super expensive stuff to test, i would trust they options. If they use garbage, maybe a baseline like red sea is best.
 
I use Red Sea Pro and have been really happy with it.
I did use the Elos but the reagents went bad, which I've heard is not uncommon.
 
Ive used tetra, api, saliferet, etc..
Ive heard some complaining about API test kit being not that accurate, but it worked for me.
I now use salifert test kit since I found it the easiest and most accurate to use compared to the price you are paying.

Check that the test kit is not expired, many dont know that test kits expire and keep using them beyond the expiry date.

Best of luck
 
I use red sea pro use to use salifert but the colors were too hard to tell apart. Red sea comes with the color wheel which makes it easier to read
 
+1 on the red sea. It's the only test kit I have from red sea that I use for all the reasons stated by others. Simplicity, reagent refill ease, and my eye can differentiate the different color eye chart better.
The rest of my test kits are Hanna checkers and salifert for all the rest.
 
I've had decent luck with the Salifert NO3; if you do the low range test it's a bit easier to identify the colors if you have good lighting to view it in. Late afternoon direct sunlight that is lower on the horizon coming into the window seems to make it the easiest to read for me. I had the RS Pro kits in the past but didnt find they produced results much easier to read than Salifert.

As to which one is right, eesh, your guess is as good as mine. Since you're running products to actively remove the nitrates, I'd lean towards the lower results. I have three different alkalinity tests and they are all different. Results of some fresh mixed Reef Crystals:

Hanna
dKH 11.65

Red Sea
dKH 11.5 (sample changed between drops so I guesstimated the results somewhere between 11 and 12)

Salifert
dKH 11.05

I shoot for 8.5 on the Hanna (easiest to use) and hope I'm actually somewhere in the 8-8.5 range LOL.

Easiest to read/use kits for me are:

Alkalinity - Hanna
Ca - Salifert (Salifert 444, Hanna 420, and Triton 456)
Mg - Salifert (Salifert 1335 Triton 1356)
PO4 - Hanna ULR (Hanna .046 Triton 0 for P and PO4)
NO3 - Salifert (cheap and fairly easy to read when you do the low range test)

Water samples for all tests were taken within 30 minutes of one another. Since receiving the Triton results, I certainly question the measurements I get from the Hanna checkers.
 
Does the API test kit have you dilute with RO water for high range? I use the Red Sea test kit and have to dilute. For weeks I had nitrates off the charts and nothing I did made any difference. Turns out the RO water that I was diluting the test with had gotten contaminated and had sky high nitrates itself, and my tank water was actually just fine.
 
Does the API test kit have you dilute with RO water for high range? I use the Red Sea test kit and have to dilute. For weeks I had nitrates off the charts and nothing I did made any difference. Turns out the RO water that I was diluting the test with had gotten contaminated and had sky high nitrates itself, and my tank water was actually just fine.
No you don't dilute because it goes up to 160ppm already.
 
I use the Red Sea Pro. It is sensitive down to .25 ppm. At levels higher than 4 ppm, you probably have to dilute it. The ordinary Red Sea test works fine at a higher range.
 
As to lowering nitrate levels, there are a number of methods. One: reduce feeding. Tw0: water changes. It is a Brute force approach, but it always works. Three: algae like chaeto in a refugium with a light source. As the algae grows, it will suck nitrates and phosphates out of the water. Four: carbon method, you add an energy source usually vodka or vinegar to the tank. The energy in the fixed carbon serves as an energy source for bacteria. The bacteria rapidly multiplies and as it does so will suck nitrates and phosphates out of the water. This method requires a skimmer that is more than adequate for your tank volume. The skimmer will remove the bacteria from the water and in the process remove the nitrates and phosphates.
 

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