Nitrite and nitrate

[Jayrock93]

Ok so when I first set my tank up like 3 weeks ago I hade almost zero nitrite and zero nitrate and now I have like 1.6 and 20 is this normal of cycling a tank does it mean it's going better or worse?

 

[Drummingbaker2010]

you will want to dirty your tank as much as possible and add a lot of micro bacteria to eat all amonia, nitrates and nitrites and eventually once the cycle is complete, everything should balance out. 3 week sounds like it might not be enough time to finish the nitrification cycle. It can vary depending on where you live or even per individual. I would give it another couple weeks and see if you've gone through the "ugly phase" in which you should see a ton of algae growth.

 

[Jayrock93]

you will want to dirty your tank as much as possible and add a lot of micro bacteria to eat all amonia, nitrates and nitrites and eventually once the cycle is complete, everything should balance out. 3 week sounds like it might not be enough time to finish the nitrification cycle. It can vary depending on where you live or even per individual. I would give it another couple weeks and see if you've gone through the "ugly phase" in which you should see a ton of algae growth.

Ok sounds good bc my water has been cloudy and I'm just now starting to see slimey algae like only one little piece but it's more of a white looking algae

 

[Rmckoy]

Did you add something as a source of ammonia ?

what test kits are you using to test nitrates and nitrites ?

nitrites are not Important for marine ( saltwater )
Focus more of providing something for a source of ammonia
When ammonia is zero and nitrates are high your cycle is finished. .

@brandon429 has more detail and “ information “ on the exact time required to cycle without testing . Providing specific conditions .

 

[Jayrock93]

I think it's an api master test kit with tubes and chemicals. And no I didn't add anything with amonia bc my water was already off the charts with amonia

 

[Rmckoy]

I think it's an api master test kit with tubes and chemicals. And no I didn't add anything with amonia bc my water was already off the charts with amonia

How can your water already be off the charts with ammonia ?

what water ?
Tap water ?
Starting with water with detectable ammonia can’t be good ……
I’d only assume a faulty test kit .
even though api kits are known for false positive readings . Typically 0.25 ppm is the result .

in order to start the nitrogen cycle you need a constant source of ammonia Which I in turn is broken down into nitrites , Which is processed to nitrates .

There are many threads and links on here in the sticky section about nitrogen cycle , starting a aquarium ,
Brs tv also has many informative videos worth watching

 

[vetteguy53081]

I think it's an api master test kit with tubes and chemicals. And no I didn't add anything with amonia bc my water was already off the charts with amonia

API kits notorious for false readings and your numbers likely higher than shown.
Nitrites Unless sky high- you can ignore these numbers as very little significance in SW opposed to Freshwater
Add liquid bacteria such as Micro Bacter XLM to increase biological efficiency and denitrification. The purpose of a cycle is to create bacteria that will be consuming ammonia and nitrite from your livestock, but you have to get the bacteria from somewhere initially. Why is it called a cycle? Because the tank will go through three phases: ammonia will rise and fall, then nitrite will rise and fall even quicker, and lastly nitrate will rise and fall. Once Ammonia and Nitrite read 0 and Nitrate is less than 20ppm, the cycle is complete and livestock can gradually be introduced.
I would suggest taking a good water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use API kits and see what readings they come up with for Ammonia-ph-Nitrate

 

[Rmckoy]

API kits notorious for false readings and your numbers likely higher than shown.
Nitrites Unless sky high- you can ignore these numbers as very little significance in SW opposed to Freshwater
Add liquid bacteria such as Micro Bacter XLM to increase biological efficiency and denitrification. The purpose of a cycle is to create bacteria that will be consuming ammonia and nitrite from your livestock, but you have to get the bacteria from somewhere initially. Why is it called a cycle? Because the tank will go through three phases: ammonia will rise and fall, then nitrite will rise and fall even quicker, and lastly nitrate will rise and fall. Once Ammonia and Nitrite read 0 and Nitrate is less than 20ppm, the cycle is complete and livestock can gradually be introduced.
I would suggest taking a good water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use API kits and see what readings they come up with for Ammonia-ph-Nitrate

Can I question one thing you mentioned ?

nitrates rise as the end product of the nitrogen cycle .
but the only way they fall is either 1) another step to transfer nitrates to nitrogen gas or 2) the more common way is exported via water change .

 

[Jayrock93]

API kits notorious for false readings and your numbers likely higher than shown.
Nitrites Unless sky high- you can ignore these numbers as very little significance in SW opposed to Freshwater
Add liquid bacteria such as Micro Bacter XLM to increase biological efficiency and denitrification. The purpose of a cycle is to create bacteria that will be consuming ammonia and nitrite from your livestock, but you have to get the bacteria from somewhere initially. Why is it called a cycle? Because the tank will go through three phases: ammonia will rise and fall, then nitrite will rise and fall even quicker, and lastly nitrate will rise and fall. Once Ammonia and Nitrite read 0 and Nitrate is less than 20ppm, the cycle is complete and livestock can gradually be introduced.
I would suggest taking a good water sample to a trusted LFS that does NOT use API kits and see what readings they come up with for Ammonia-ph-Nitrate

Awesome thank you what would be the best testing kits or instruments for my tank I'm extremely new to this and need all the best stuff possible money is not a problem so please help all this is so interesting and awesome I wanna learn and make this a life thing thank you

 

[vetteguy53081]

Awesome thank you what would be the best testing kits or instruments for my tank I'm extremely new to this and need all the best stuff possible money is not a problem so please help all this is so interesting and awesome I wanna learn and make this a life thing thank you

Hanna or Salifert kits reliable

 

[Rmckoy]

Hanna or Salifert kits reliable

Hanna , salifert , Red Sea , aqua forest .

 

[Jayrock93]

Hanna , salifert , Red Sea , aqua forest .

Hanna , salifert , Red Sea , aqua forest .

My nitrates are really high and my amonia is at like 0.3 with the api master test kit

 

[PatW]

I have found that the API tests are quick and dirty and most of them are OK. The problem with their ammonia test is it does tend to give a low ammonia reading at 0 ammonia. I think the most inexpensive test that will work for you is the Salifert ammonia test. WIth a verified ammonia reading of .3, I would let the cycle continue before adding any critters. You may want to get your local fish store to check your ammonia level (just take them a sample).

Ammonia is highly toxic and you really do not want any in your aquarium. Nitrite is far less toxic but it is still toxic. In a normal cycle, nitrite should be converted to nitrate pretty quickly. And finally there is nitrate. You do not want really high nitrates like 100 ppm. And high nitrates often produce pest algae issues. So most people like to get their aquariums below 20 ppm nitrates. And often the easiest method of getting the nitrates down is by using a good old brute force series of water changes.

I have found API to be sort of OK for Alkalinity but it only gets you to the nearest DKH while other tests are dial in much closer. Salifert or Red Sea Pro are good hear (or Hanna). The API calcium test is OK. But again Salifert or Red Sea Pro are better. The API nitrate test drove me crazy with trying to distinguish subtle differences in orange. I like the Salifert and Red Sea Pro much better (subtle changes in pink).

 

[Jayrock93]

I have found that the API tests are quick and dirty and most of them are OK. The problem with their ammonia test is it does tend to give a low ammonia reading at 0 ammonia. I think the most inexpensive test that will work for you is the Salifert ammonia test. WIth a verified ammonia reading of .3, I would let the cycle continue before adding any critters. You may want to get your local fish store to check your ammonia level (just take them a sample).

Ammonia is highly toxic and you really do not want any in your aquarium. Nitrite is far less toxic but it is still toxic. In a normal cycle, nitrite should be converted to nitrate pretty quickly. And finally there is nitrate. You do not want really high nitrates like 100 ppm. And high nitrates often produce pest algae issues. So most people like to get their aquariums below 20 ppm nitrates. And often the easiest method of getting the nitrates down is by using a good old brute force series of water changes.

I have found API to be sort of OK for Alkalinity but it only gets you to the nearest DKH while other tests are dial in much closer. Salifert or Red Sea Pro are good hear (or Hanna). The API calcium test is OK. But again Salifert or Red Sea Pro are better. The API nitrate test drove me crazy with trying to distinguish subtle differences in orange. I like the Salifert and Red Sea Pro much better (subtle changes in pink).

Awesome thanks

 

[Jayrock93]

Awesome thanks

Ok so my fluval test kit says my amonia is twice as high but my salifert shows 0 amonia I'm confused what I should go by

 

[Jayrock93]

I have found that the API tests are quick and dirty and most of them are OK. The problem with their ammonia test is it does tend to give a low ammonia reading at 0 ammonia. I think the most inexpensive test that will work for you is the Salifert ammonia test. WIth a verified ammonia reading of .3, I would let the cycle continue before adding any critters. You may want to get your local fish store to check your ammonia level (just take them a sample).

Ammonia is highly toxic and you really do not want any in your aquarium. Nitrite is far less toxic but it is still toxic. In a normal cycle, nitrite should be converted to nitrate pretty quickly. And finally there is nitrate. You do not want really high nitrates like 100 ppm. And high nitrates often produce pest algae issues. So most people like to get their aquariums below 20 ppm nitrates. And often the easiest method of getting the nitrates down is by using a good old brute force series of water changes.

I have found API to be sort of OK for Alkalinity but it only gets you to the nearest DKH while other tests are dial in much closer. Salifert or Red Sea Pro are good hear (or Hanna). The API calcium test is OK. But again Salifert or Red Sea Pro are better. The API nitrate test drove me crazy with trying to distinguish subtle differences in orange. I like the Salifert and Red Sea Pro much better (subtle changes in pink).

So my fluval test kit says my amonia is really high but my salifert test says 0 I'm confused what should I go by?

 

[Rmckoy]

Find another test kit to confirm one is correct .
I would bet the salifert is close to being correct

 

[Jayrock93]

Find another test kit to confirm one is correct .
I would bet the salifert is close to being correct

Ok thanks