Nitrite Issue, need some help.

Slayspawn

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I have been out of the hobby for a few years. I just recently got back into it and bought a 75 Gallon tank, I purchased some aquacultured live rock and put it in. Of course that started the cycle process and I have been very patient. Ammonia obviously spiked from the die off and it took a good 4 weeks for the ammonia to finally get to 0. Now the Nitrites are very high sitting at a steady 5.0 for about the past 3 weeks. The ammonia is staying steady at 0 but the Nitrites don't seem to be changing, I do 25% water changes every week as well. My tank seems to be thriving with lots of different types of algae and things going on, so I know something is happening but I would really love to add some kind of life to the tank. Is there something that I am doing wrong, or could do better or do I just need to continue to be patient.

IMG_2037 (3).JPG
 
I would cut back on the water changes. Let the bacteria establish, in the early stages of a cycle some of it is still floating. Its ok to water change if levels are extremely high but I wouldn't do it on a weekly basis. Let mother nature do its thing it will happen don't worry. Also are you still adding a source of ammonia? IF so bacteria that breaks down ammonia is breaking down into nitrites which may be causing the bacteria that breaks down nitrite to fall behind a bit.
 
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^^^Agree. Bacteria needs to become established. I would even suggest dosing microbacter 7 to get your tank going. For now, hand pic the algae out and get a clean up crew. Everyone grows algae but a strong bacteria presence will keep it to a minimum while your clean up crew mows down whatever begins to grow
 
I would cut back on the water changes. Let the bacteria establish, in the early stages of a cycle some of it is still floating. Its ok to water change if levels are extremely high but I wouldn't do it on a weekly basis. Let mother nature do its thing it will happen don't worry. Also are you still adding a source of ammonia? IF so bacteria that breaks down ammonia is breaking down into nitrites which may be causing the bacteria that breaks down nitrite to fall behind a bit.
No I am not adding any more ammonia sources.
 
^^^Agree. Bacteria needs to become established. I would even suggest dosing microbacter 7 to get your tank going. For now, hand pic the algae out and get a clean up crew. Everyone grows algae but a strong bacteria presence will keep it to a minimum while your clean up crew mows down whatever begins to grow
Would it be safe to add a clean up crew right now, since my Nitrites are so high, because that is what I am wanting to do. I just don't want to kill anything off because of my impatience.
 
Maybe I am wrong here, but how would hair algae grow with the presence of Nitrites? I thought hair algae grows with the presence of nitrates and phosphates?
 
Maybe I am wrong here, but how would hair algae grow with the presence of Nitrites? I thought hair algae grows with the presence of nitrates and phosphates?
Not really sure I just know what my tests are reading. But then again that is why I am asking. Now I do have a high amount of Nitrates too. I have zero ammonia and both Nitrites and Nitrates are high
 
NO2 = Nitrites : NO3 = Nitrates : PO4 = Phosphates

Nitrites need to convert to Nitrates before the cycle ends. As Deerhunter said I would back off water changes till nitrites are zero.
The brown looking stuff in your tank looks like diatoms as well.
Could it be possible that your cycle ended and that excess nitrates caused the hair algae bloom? And is it possible that the cycle was completed and a new source of ammonia was never introduced into the tank?
Without food(ammonia) for the beneficial bacteria to feed off of, it is possible to have created a new cycle with existing life dying off.
 
http://reef2reef.com/threads/new-ta...d-cocktail-shrimp-live-rock-no-shrimp.214618/


Simple :)
Stop testing for nitrites, ever, you've already stated critical timeframes we cover there.

One simple test and a known underwater submersion time is all that's needed to know when you can start

That algae needs to be cleaned out of the whole system all at once, and all detritus from the curing process up under the rocks and in the sandbed fully removed in good cleaning. Never permit algae, and cycling per 2016 only requires one param to be detailed, ammonia. The link has multiple chemistry threads to detail that ability...to cycle off ammonia only. It's a helpful way of distilling all cycles down to one thing to measure vs a bunch of guessing. All cycles have a measurable start date which requires no guessing.

If you are interested to know why you may have persistent nitrite, if the reading is right, it's likely the detritus circulating in the tank mid-stage rot, after the die off, which is why we clean it all out before evaluating anything about your start date. It makes fine cycle feed until then. Once clean, do the digestion test then it's cased closed.



Your bacteria permit good tank cleaning always.
 
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http://reef2reef.com/threads/new-ta...d-cocktail-shrimp-live-rock-no-shrimp.214618/


Simple :)
Stop testing for nitrites, ever, you've already stated critical timeframes we cover there.

One simple test and a known underwater submersion time is all that's needed to know when you can start

That algae needs to be cleaned out of the whole system all at once, and all detritus from the curing process up under the rocks and in the sandbed fully removed in good cleaning. Never permit algae, and cycling per 2016 only requires one param to be detailed, ammonia. The link has multiple chemistry threads to detail that ability...to cycle off ammonia only. It's a helpful way of distilling all cycles down to one thing to measure vs a bunch of guessing. All cycles have a measurable start date which requires no guessing.

If you are interested to know why you may have persistent nitrite, if the reading is right, it's likely the detritus circulating in the tank mid-stage rot, after the die off, which is why we clean it all out before evaluating anything about your start date. It makes fine cycle feed until then. Once clean, do the digestion test then it's cased closed.



Your bacteria permit good tank cleaning always.
Thanks so much, I will remove the algae first thing tomorrow
 
http://reef2reef.com/threads/new-ta...d-cocktail-shrimp-live-rock-no-shrimp.214618/


Simple :)
Stop testing for nitrites, ever, you've already stated critical timeframes we cover there.

One simple test and a known underwater submersion time is all that's needed to know when you can start

That algae needs to be cleaned out of the whole system all at once, and all detritus from the curing process up under the rocks and in the sandbed fully removed in good cleaning. Never permit algae, and cycling per 2016 only requires one param to be detailed, ammonia. The link has multiple chemistry threads to detail that ability...to cycle off ammonia only. It's a helpful way of distilling all cycles down to one thing to measure vs a bunch of guessing. All cycles have a measurable start date which requires no guessing.

If you are interested to know why you may have persistent nitrite, if the reading is right, it's likely the detritus circulating in the tank mid-stage rot, after the die off, which is why we clean it all out before evaluating anything about your start date. It makes fine cycle feed until then. Once clean, do the digestion test then it's cased closed.



Your bacteria permit good tank cleaning always.
Why would his test show nitrite?
 
In this particular case the ~40 days has passed submerged and we are awaiting ammonia verification. imo what's causing his nitrite depending on verification of reading is the leftovers from die off which was good initial cycling feed (detritus loading and any confounds the thread covers in the nitrite section w links)


The algae are getting nitrate as you stated. Merely the ammonia digestion guarantees nitrate, even if our test kits might miss it one day and indicate zero. The level of die off and incomplete protein degredation pictured here can easily have his water column acting strange while the substrate, if cleaned, will digest normally and verifiably. If it's been forty days underwater.


So we carve off nitrate due to that, and nitrite since its inert, and are left with only ammonia needing to be tested but after these rocks are meticulously cleaned and the top sandbed too, start the reef with zero detritus.


i like to test that sole premise in each questionable cycle thread, whether ammonia alone and a 40 day span + digestion test can cycle every know group A reef. If it won't work here, we'll edit that thread w credit.

This poster needs to make all cycle evaluations in the fully clean, non invaded condition. The detritus is a confound to every test we base a cycle on pre 2016.


It's easy to find in Google searches nitrite spikes occurring in fully aged tanks when disturbing the sandbed, doesn't mean bac are dead just that temporary pocketed kicked up waste sent partial decay into the sampling water
 
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In this particular case the ~40 days has passed submerged and we are awaiting ammonia verification. imo what's causing his nitrite depending on verification of reading is the leftovers from die off which was good initial cycling feed (detritus loading and any confounds the thread covers in the nitrite section w links)


The algae are getting nitrate as you stated. Merely the ammonia digestion guarantees nitrate, even if our test kits might miss it one day and indicate zero. So we carve off nitrate due to that, and nitrite since its inert, and are left with only ammonia needing to be tested.

i like to test that sole premise in each questionable cycle thread, whether ammonia alone and a 40 day span + digestion test can cycle every know group A reef. If it won't work here, we'll edit that thread w credit.

This poster needs to make all cycle evaluations in the fully clean, non invaded condition. The detritus is a confound to every test we base a cycle on pre 2016.


It's easy to find in Google searches nitrite spikes occurring in fully aged tanks when disturbing the sandbed, doesn't mean bac are dead just that temporary pocketed kicked up waste sent partial decay into the sampling water before the bacteria could make use and render the test neutral
But he added live rock not dry live rock? No die off. All he had to do was wait for the sand to cycle? If he can get the nitrates down the hair algae will remove itself?
 
oh I thought i read it was shipped to him. I see on re read he's claiming it's pre cured.

Won't change how to know the start date either way which is a neat part of measuring only one param imo.

Look at the detritus loading, doesn't change my answer. The algae are beginning to plug the rocks and reduce active surface area, my link covers the algae answer you asked above, we force remove it via hand cleaning. We want these rocks cleaner so that more active surface area is exposed to wastewater. It's eutrophic above, but easily correctable.

Test confounds haven't been factored yet, they're there in many cases.

All the op has to do is clean the tank and go, if it was live. I didn't see much coralline above, and relating directly to thread pics it's easy to see why digest testing is ideal. If there's pods and worms, then don't, just clean the tank and begin as group B from the thread shows. Easy cycle here knowing that clarification.
 
I think he passed cycle and algae bloom. He missed adding clean up crew for diatoms. Just needs ammonia source don't you think? He is only 4 weeks in. First ammonia, then no2, then no3, diatoms, cyano(maybe), last is hair algae.
 
I can't agree on ammonia or feeding if the rock was group B or live, those are self sustaining after verification. If it was group A or needing ammonia verification it could use some ammonia.

People think it's silly to speak in group types but per the science in that thread the distinction is literally required to know where ammonia applies

The whole premise in that thread is everyone treats both groups the same, and how that causes global warming and bad things in general on down the line :) if not for learning a purely arbitrary means of tank control. That is only my opinion heh
 
Ok good point on ammonia. But sand has to remove silicates which black sand is full of.
 
If it were my tank I would add a bottle of bacteria, wait a couple days, and let nitrites hit 0. Then I would add about 15 hermits and 5-10 trochus snails, and turn off the lights for about a week. It looks like you have mad GHA, which is something you want to take care of now. Are you using RO/DI? If not make sure you are using that, I would test for phosphates before nitrates. Sometime live rock can leach phosphates, or it can be coming from your rocks. if the CUC does it job right they GHA will demish greatly with no light it wont grow and the CUC will eat it. THEN, do a large water change i.e. nutrient export. It goes something like this. My crude diagram: NO2+PO4-->algae fetrilizer-->CUC food-->Poop in Water--> Bacteria food-->NO2 in water column + water change= tank with less algae, less PO4 and NO2, and a stronger bacterial population. possibly ready for some fish.

This is just a suggested course of action that has sort of worked for me before.
 

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