Nitrites sky high for weeks

[zachj.1109]

Under 25 days / nitrite compliance time on most cycling charts/ I’d believe anyone is legit positive for it. And as mentioned any heavy initial ammonia blasting might kick it up eight notches but it’s ok either way.

Even if ammonia is not present and hasn’t been dosed again after a 75% water change? I haven’t dosed ammonia in 8-9 weeks. I used dr Tim’s and nitrite is still 5++. It’s like the other guy said, if nitrite is irreverent, that’s great, pretty dang cool in fact, but, what’s the catch? Why can some have 0 nitrites, and others like myself be in the situation I’m in, even using the same tests. My head can’t wrap around it lol.

 

[brandon429]

100% Water Change

So in my previous thread, I had an ammonia issue that was out of hand. As suggested, I did a 100% WC and now i’m wondering when I should start adding fish back. If anyone has suggestions, let me know!

www.reef2reef.com

give that a read its short, only one tank example. Proves that nothing is stalled


your allowed start date, now, is independent from any answers about the test params. Until you and I are dealing in digital readouts vs how you interpret and prepare the color tests, it’s all approximation we aren’t discussing any real numbers. The number of days on the bottle bac label is real timing that works.
after the big export water change

 

[Courtney Aldrich]

I think the nitrite oxidizing bacteria (NOB) were unable to establish and were outcompeted by heterotrophic bacteria that colonized all available surfaces. I'm sure the NOB will eventually establish in the tank given enough time. If we define a tank cycle as the ability to convert ammonia to nitrite, since nitrite is relatively nontoxic, then I guess it's a moot point on whether you have NOB. For a comprehensive review on nitrite chemistry and toxicity, see: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-06/rhf/index.php

 

[FishyFishFish]

OK, so I have just done an approx 70% water change.

Nitrite is now 0.5ppm and Nitrate 10ppm - both a bit higher than I would have thought but ideal for me to now see if they trend up, down or stay the same (with no further additions of ammonium chloride).

 

[EuphylliaAddict]

I am not looking for specific numbers; I am just looking for a reduction in nitrite, which isn't happening and I still don't understand why. Whilst nitrite might be irrelevant for the safety of reef inhabitants, it still shows that my cycle is not complete.

This is not my first cycle and I have never had this problem before. The only difference this time is dry rock v live rock, however, there was no problem getting ammonia under control with the dry rock (and no bottle bac), but nitrite is another story.

Again, I understand that this might be irrelevant but my logical mind needs to know why!!


I haven't read into the 'skip' cycle, but I'm not sure the convention comparison is relevant to all home aquarists. I haven't been to any of the conventions but I assume most (if not all) of the displays are set up with live rock with no minimal die-off, which cycles very quickly from my tiny experience. Therefore, presumably, the nitrite levels in these display tanks is very low/zero very quickly. That is not the same for us cycling with dry rock (which is becoming more and more common); my cycle is not comparable to a live rock cycle.

I had a similar problem before, back when I started with freshwater I thought I could add 30 fish and 100 plants and it'd be fine.... It's not that easy, it's a process that takes weeks and months to establish when you're starting with new everything, you want it to take 6 weeks to fully cycle before adding livestock.... If you have seeded rocks you can cut that in half basically... You still want the process of completely breaking down food to happen first, then you can add 3 fish at once and they'll thrive because the water quality is good enough, until then learn the process and don't interrupt it, don't add anything at all unless it's food or bacteria to process the food. Just my 2 cents, be patient it'll all process in a few days and you'll be happy you waited forever because nothing will die due to ammonia spikes...

 

[zachj.1109]

Hey all, so I took the advice of a 100% water change. I followed the Params for 3 days and today I’m finally cycled! Ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 10. I’m so excited to start getting into it! Diatoms have completely taken over the tank right now so I’ve got a few more weeks before I’m gonna get anything. Wish me luck all, thanks for the quick help as well!

 

[TexanCanuck]

Congrats! Stick to your plan and you'll get through the ugly brown phase!

 

[FishyFishFish]

So following my big water change my nitrite dropped from 0.5, immediately following the water change, to 0.25ppm in 24 hours. The following day it was still 0.25. I went away for the weekend and it is now zero.

I'm not sure I learned a lot from this as there could have been a number of reasons for this. The nitrite exchange could have been 'stuck', the nitrite could have been slowly reducing but from such a high level that is was taking a long time or there could have been some testing crossover due to the nitrate/nitrate levels. I am still happy that the cheap API test was accurate enough for cycling purposes.

What I do know is that having waited a couple of weeks for the nitrite to drop, a water change helped it drop to zero in a few days.

 

[woodyetia]

Well my LFS won’t sell me fish as they test my water and keep telling me my Nitrites are too high off the chart but my Ammonia is 0 my Nitrates are 160. Cycling for a month with LR, Base Rock and LS. Ammonia spiked and then came back down. I did water change 30% but can’t get the Nitrites down. My test and LFS test are showing about the same off the chart. What else can I do I have added Microbac 7 per LFS.

 

[TexanCanuck]

@woodyetia - It might be helpful if you start a new thread for your question, and in your first posting share with us a little more about your tank, your livestock, your source water, and the history of how you cycled the tank.

In the meantime, if nitrites (NO2) are your problem, trying doing a much larger water change (~80% or more).

Also, keep in mind that Microbacter 7 (a great product, don't get me wrong!) uses Bacteria that are stored in spores and are not "live" bacteria ... thus, while it introduces a great diversity of nitrifying and de-nitrifying bacteria, it will take longer to work (think in terms of WEEKS)

If you are trying to jump-start your biofilter using bottled bacteria, you are better off starting with MicroBacter Start XLM (same company that makes Microbacter 7) - as it contains LIVE bacteria (although fewer strains, and only nitrifying bacteria). It will help process Nitrite (NO2) into Nitrate (NO3). It works in DAYS. Just keep in mind it will not help to further breakdown Nitrate (NO3) - you will have to continue to rely on water changes for that unless you also implement some form of nutrient export method such as a refugium with macroalgae.

 

[woodyetia]

Partial water change and all is now good .

 

[Woodchip]

What do you mean by goby own a nitrite kit? Do you mean nitrite won’t harm fish?

 

[Woodchip]

Because I have a similar problem. My tank has been up and running for a month now after a one month cycle and now out of the blue my coals close up. Do I test the water and I have 5+ nitrite and 1-2ppm ammonia which went away after the first water change but my nitrite won’t go away. No fish are acting weird but my coral won’t open up so I am wondering what to do because I tested yesterday and ammonia started to come back should I do a big water change I have done like 3 30% water changes this week but I don’t want to get rid of all my bacteria.

 

[Azedenkae]

Because I have a similar problem. My tank has been up and running for a month now after a one month cycle and now out of the blue my coals close up. Do I test the water and I have 5+ nitrite and 1-2ppm ammonia which went away after the first water change but my nitrite won’t go away. No fish are acting weird but my coral won’t open up so I am wondering what to do because I tested yesterday and ammonia started to come back should I do a big water change I have done like 3 30% water changes this week but I don’t want to get rid of all my bacteria.

Did you cycle your tank? How did you do it? What size tank and what is the stocking?

Also please post a new thread rather than hijacking someone else's.

 

[Woodchip]

Oh I’m sorry but i cycled my tank for however long it took to get the water parameters perfect so about 5 weeks no fish or anything I just let it run it’s course and it is 30 gallons with a half inch Hectors goby two small clownfish and a bicolor blenny I normally go a while water change and feed every other day.

 

[Azedenkae]

Oh I’m sorry but i cycled my tank for however long it took to get the water parameters perfect so about 5 weeks no fish or anything I just let it run it’s course and it is 30 gallons with a half inch Hectors goby two small clownfish and a bicolor blenny I normally go a while water change and feed every other day.

Did you do anything to try to build up your nitrifiers? Dosing ammonia, adding fish food, seafood, etc.? Did you see any ammonia to start with before it goes to 0, was there ever an increase in ammonia?

P.S. In the mean time, dose Prime or do something similar to make ammonia non-toxic to your fish. Unsure why your fish are not dead yet despite your ammonia readings, but anyways.

 

[Woodchip]

I added fritz turbo start. Also ammonia is not at zero but nitrite is still at 5 and nitrate is too high to read but I found a dead pepper mint shrimp and removed it then did a40% water change.

 

[Woodchip]

Fish are all still acting normal so maybe I should check my test kit.

 

[woodyetia]

i Would check your test kit. My LFS kept telling me I wasn’t ready my Nitrites were too high. My test showed I was good they made me wait another week. Took back something I said no way one of ours is wrong so he tried another tester and it came back fine.

 

[Woodchip]

That would make sense because my fish aren’t acting any different even though apparently my nitrite is too high to read.