No more fish?

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That’s the setup I have now I do have the old pvc tubes but I just cleaned them and want them to dry out.
 
All fish are bought locally at LFS and I make sure they eat before bringing home. I also do match LFS to insure it’s an easy transition for the fish from the store to home after floating the bag. No fish I purchase so no signs of parasites and look very hardy. Purple tang, Hippo tang, pair of frost bite clowns. Also this is a very high end LFS they’ve always treated me well.
What is your salinity. We brought fish home and out in cycled quarantine and one started to show signs of stress heavy breathing stopped eating on day two and we checked our salinity and somehow with evaluation it got to be way high so we did immediate water change and slowly brought it down over 12 hours and three water changes. Fish did well and into displace after one week observation no meds. This was an angel and showed no signs of flukes or ick/velvet. Also what is your temp?
 
I’ll try again one more time with some cheaper fish. I will empty QT give it a good cleaning and try and keep my bacteria so I don’t go through a cycle. I will try that QT regimen seems like a good plan. Also can GC and Copper be fine in QT without affecting the fish?
lots of good advice here. I plan to change to Hotrocks' plan next time I get fish.

But wanted to mention if you keep your bacteria, you are keeping a potential disease reservoir. Use some biospira or turbo start to get your bacteria going after sanitizing the tank
 
The tank looks nice but I don’t see a powerhead or bubbler for oxygen? I could be wrong but I think they need oxygen esp if using meds.


Well the filter to the left moves a ton of water. So with both together there is a ton of surface agitation so I decided not to add the power head I had in there. I mean I can but there would a lot of turbulence and don’t wanna blow fish into a corner.
 
With adequate HoB filtration, a bubbler is entirely unnecessary. I do always run a powerhead in my QT, not for oxygen, but as a way to get foods moving around.
 
I agree on the LFS sg issue. I had a conversation at one recently, first reply to sg was 'I don't know". I got them to measure it for it me. They used the floating dial in a box method, it was 1.015. I have a feeling there is a lot of variability. I have wondered about this when ordering online as they often report a sg, but is it real. I cannot mix saltwater once they arrive so I do really long acclimations with the difficulty of the temp in the acclimation container dropping to room temp. I have been looking a small heater for a 5 gal bucket but the water volumes are so low I am not sure it works. It is frustrating. Also, make sure you are using RO/DI water. There are a lot of things in city and well water.
 
The tank looks nice but I don’t see a powerhead or bubbler for oxygen? I could be wrong but I think they need oxygen esp if using meds.
I think that's the biggest problem. Oxygen in QT tanks are often low.
 
I agree on the LFS sg issue. I had a conversation at one recently, first reply to sg was 'I don't know". I got them to measure it for it me. They used the floating dial in a box method, it was 1.015. I have a feeling there is a lot of variability. I have wondered about this when ordering online as they often report a sg, but is it real. I cannot mix saltwater once they arrive so I do really long acclimations with the difficulty of the temp in the acclimation container dropping to room temp. I have been looking a small heater for a 5 gal bucket but the water volumes are so low I am not sure it works. It is frustrating. Also, make sure you are using RO/DI water. There are a lot of things in city and well water.

Yea I have check there water using a refractometer when I bought fish just to make sure the store didn’t know but SG was on the money at 1.018. I do make my own RO/DI water. All filters are new as well.
 
Why two ammonia badges, have you had one fail or is the second just in aqueous storage until you need it somewhere else?

I had an extra one on a small QT I had for more sensitive fish. But I didn’t use it so I put it to use in this tank to rule out ammonia that’s all.
 
I mean would a SG change from let’s say 1.018 to 1.025 in 3 days kill fish so fast like that? I’m still thinking maybe the eater was tainted with something idk. My son could have also drop something in water or something on his hand and stuck it in the water with out me knowing.
 
The tank looks nice but I don’t see a powerhead or bubbler for oxygen? I could be wrong but I think they need oxygen esp if using meds.[/QUOTE

There is a bio wheel in there helps with oxgynation. I agree an air stone or a hob skimmer with out the collection cup will be extremely useful .
 
I mean would a SG change from let’s say 1.018 to 1.025 in 3 days kill fish so fast like that? I’m still thinking maybe the eater was tainted with something idk. My son could have also drop something in water or something on his hand and stuck it in the water with out me knowing.
I don't know. You need a physiology study for fish, and then it likely varies by species. Changing internal sg on a human that much instantly would likely put a person into a coma with water shifting. Typically, organisms compensate to prevent that sort of thing. I really do not know how fast or much a marine fish can compensate but water moves quickly.
 
Might check your refractometer calibration if you havent. Mine has to be recalibrated every week or so now. Also double check the bag water yourself instead of just asking the store to do it...In case theirs is off, or for an opportunity to discover yours is.

could very well be velvet or bacterial infections though. Both can kill very fast with undetectable symptoms.

for this reason I've been using the QT method from @HotRocks and have had much more success lately.
 
Acclimation is very important. Possible it is crypto or protozoan and if it is....no fish in the tank for at least 6 weeks will be to your advantage as the culprit will have no host to feed on.
Other factors could be stray voltage from a heater OR return pump, False salinity readings in which I would get a second opinion by taking a water sample to your LFS and see how their readings compare with yours and lastly would be a gravel check (sweep) to assure you don't have a mantis, bobbit worm or other hidden hunter you are unaware of
 
I mean would a SG change from let’s say 1.018 to 1.025 in 3 days kill fish so fast like that? I’m still thinking maybe the eater was tainted with something idk. My son could have also drop something in water or something on his hand and stuck it in the water with out me knowing.

It might...

I believe it's not recommended to raise SG more than one one-hundredth of a point per day, so 1.018 to 1.019 or so over 24 hours. (You can lower it rather more quickly.)

I match incoming SG with a refractometer, which I calibrate each time I use, then raise the salinity by topping-off with saltwater, rather than RO/DI. By the time I'm ready to add fish to the display, the SG is pretty close.

~Bruce
 

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