NO3 dosing killing my SPS?

[Wiskey]

Hello all!

I found that my NO3 was at 0, which isn't good for Cheato growth, my Phosphate was at 0.08 which is about where I like to have it. To correct the issue I started dosing NO3 to 10PPM which I figured was a good number.

I held it there for about a week, and my corals were looking worse and worse, then I had about 6 Frags RTN, and more started to STN. I lost about 8 frags in total, and some of my larger colonies started having tissue strip off.

Most of my corals were fine, 75% ish showed positive change, or little to no change, but 25% died or were dying.

At that point I stopped adding it and waited a couple weeks, things started to look a little better, then NO3 was 0 again so I started to add just a tiny bit, NO3 was barely detectable on the Hanna checker, 0.2 and the corals started looking worse again so I stopped.

What's the deal? I've always avoided keeping 0 Phosphate or 0 NO3. Has anyone seen this? Does anyone know what's going on?

Basic Stats:
Par is between 150 and 300 pretty much anywhere in the tank. T5/LED combo.
KH - 7.5
CA - 440
Mag - 1350
Phosphate still 0.08 - 0.1

Any ideas?
Whiskey

 

[Kfactor]

i have the same problem my but with po4 . my po4 shows zero on my hanna ulr but when i does my sps frags look worse

 

[Lavey29]

Hello all!

I found that my NO3 was at 0, which isn't good for Cheato growth, my Phosphate was at 0.08 which is about where I like to have it. To correct the issue I started dosing NO3 to 10PPM which I figured was a good number.

I held it there for about a week, and my corals were looking worse and worse, then I had about 6 Frags RTN, and more started to STN. I lost about 8 frags in total, and some of my larger colonies started having tissue strip off.

Most of my corals were fine, 75% ish showed positive change, or little to no change, but 25% died or were dying.

At that point I stopped adding it and waited a couple weeks, things started to look a little better, then NO3 was 0 again so I started to add just a tiny bit, NO3 was barely detectable on the Hanna checker, 0.2 and the corals started looking worse again so I stopped.

What's the deal? I've always avoided keeping 0 Phosphate or 0 NO3. Has anyone seen this? Does anyone know what's going on?

Basic Stats:
Par is between 150 and 300 pretty much anywhere in the tank. T5/LED combo.
KH - 7.5
CA - 440
Mag - 1350
Phosphate still 0.08 - 0.1

Any ideas?
Whiskey

So 75% of your corals showed positive change and your wondering what's wrong? That 25% probably adapted to your ULN approach and react differently when there is more nutrients in the water.

 

[Wiskey]

So 75% of your corals showed positive change and your wondering what's wrong? That 25% probably adapted to your ULN approach and react differently when there is more nutrients in the water.

Would you stay the course? Keep dosing the NO3?

 

[scottj6]

I would stop chasing numbers and let your corals tell you what they need

 

[Dburr1014]

Wait,

What are you dosing? And how fast did you get it up?
Edit, what test kit?

 

[Lavey29]

I would stop chasing numbers and let your corals tell you what they need

This is a good concept but if your nutrients are low you corals could be starving and declining from the inside out. By the time they show external signs of distress it may be to late but I do agree with your approach. If you have numbers that don't fit the norm but your tank is thriving then leave it as is for sure.

 

[Wiskey]

I'm using the Hanna HR Nitrate checker.
Initially I dosed basically a whole bottle of B-Ionic Nitrate over 2 days to get it to 10PPM and keep it there.
Then I put B-Ionic NO3 on a doser to keep it at 10PPM.

Then I turned off the doser and let it drop to 0 again, this is when things started looking better.
Then I set the doser to 1ML /Day which got me to like 0.2 ppm but the corals started looking a little worse again.

Whiskey

 

[Dburr1014]

This is a good concept but if your nutrients are low you corals could be starving and declining from the inside out. By the time they show external signs of distress it may be to late but I do agree with your approach. If you have numbers that don't fit the norm but your tank is thriving then leave it as is for sure.

Not to mention your 1 step away from dinos

 

[Wiskey]

I would stop chasing numbers and let your corals tell you what they need

I agree with you completely, but some of my corals are light and not looking healthy. The NO3 dosing helped this for many, but hurt some others.

Whiskey

 

[Wiskey]

Not to mention your 1 step away from dinos

I thought that was a Phosphate thing? 0.08 Phosphate should keep me out of that bucket.

Whiskey

 

[Dburr1014]

I'm using the Hanna HR Nitrate checker.
Initially I dosed basically a whole bottle of B-Ionic Nitrate over 2 days to get it to 10PPM and keep it there.
Then I put B-Ionic NO3 on a doser to keep it at 10PPM.

Then I turned off the doser and let it drop to 0 again, this is when things started looking better.
Then I set the doser to 1ML /Day which got me to like 0.2 ppm but the corals started looking a little worse again.

Whiskey

I thought that was a Phosphate thing? 0.08 Phosphate should keep me out of that bucket.

Whiskey

Well yes, nitrate 0, one more 0 and dinos. (one more step)

I'm not familiar with b ionic products. Maybe a different brand may help?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Well yes, nitrate 0, one more 0 and dinos. (one more step)

I'm not familiar with b ionic products. Maybe a different brand may help?

ESV B-ionic is a high quality brand, so I would not suppose that is the issue.

 

[Wiskey]

To give some idea, this coral was growing fast! Never had a single issue. Now look:

Other colonies of Policipora and Garf Bonzi, and Anacropora that are 3x the size are unaffected. I have a stylo that bleached in the center but not the tips and has much reduced pylop extension. It's weird.

Could it be the change?

Whiskey

 

[Dburr1014]

ESV B-ionic is a high quality brand, so I would not suppose that is the issue.

Is Phosphate phosphate? Or are different brands different types of phosphate?
I have know idea, just curious.

Edit: I think I found my answer



So, couldn't one type of phosphate chemically not work in his system? Just the composition of the brand bother certain corals just because of the make up of his water.
Idk, maybe in over thinking it. I am certainly not a chemist.

 

[Wiskey]

Phosphate I'm okay with, that occurs naturally from Reef Roids. I've never been able to keep nitrate in this tank though.
Whiskey

 

[Dburr1014]

Phosphate I'm okay with, that occurs naturally from Reef Roids. I've never been able to keep nitrate in this tank though.
Whiskey

Yes sorry, long day at work.

 

[Aquajamin]

I use Brightwell NO3 and have not experienced this problem. My nitrate is not detectable on Hanna or Salifert but my tank grows algae so this is what i monitor. When my tank becomes too clean, no algae, i will boost with NO3 to avoid the Dino blooms.

 

[Wiskey]

Oh! That's the other funny thing. When I'm dosing NO3 I don't have to clean my glass nearly as much. Usually it's a daily thing with a very light dusting (most people would likely wait) but when I dose the NO3 you can look as hard as you want and the algae isn't there for 3 days or so.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Is Phosphate phosphate? Or are different brands different types of phosphate?
I have know idea, just curious.

Edit: I think I found my answer



So, couldn't one type of phosphate chemically not work in his system? Just the composition of the brand bother certain corals just because of the make up of his water.
Idk, maybe in over thinking it. I am certainly not a chemist.

Yes, you are overthinking it.

Any product intended to dose phosphate to an aquarium is using inorganic orthophosphate unless it is a food of some sort (which also contain organic phosphates).

This has more:

Phosphate in the Reef Aquarium

The phosphorus atom is one of living matter's basic building blocks. It is present in every living creature and in every reef aquarium's water. Unfortunately, it is often present in excess in reef aquaria, and that excess has the potential to cause at least two substantial problems for...

www.reefedition.com