Non-Reef Safe Silicone Disaster Cont.

[ReefEsq]

Essentially, I had the ingenious idea of adding a separate sump/fuge to my existing AIO. I've used GE1 silicone before with no issues. In my haste, I grabbed GE2 silicone and did my baffles with that (didn't realize until I asked the question in this forum). Woke up the next day to some hurting corals and dead fish (RIP to the best two clowns that ever clowned). Switched all of my livestock to my brother's reef tank where I'm praying most, if not all, recover and heal.

Now I'm facing an empty tank, and I'm wondering if running a lot of carbon in a media reactor, along with some big water changes and skimming would remove the fungicide from my system over the course of a week or so. Anyone have any expertise to chime in with?

The alternative would be to drain the system and cycle all over again, etc.

 

[Mjrenz]

Essentially, I had the ingenious idea of adding a separate sump/fuge to my existing AIO. I've used GE1 silicone before with no issues. In my haste, I grabbed GE2 silicone and did my baffles with that (didn't realize until I asked the question in this forum). Woke up the next day to some hurting corals and dead fish (RIP to the best two clowns that ever clowned). Switched all of my livestock to my brother's reef tank where I'm praying most, if not all, recover and heal.

Now I'm facing an empty tank, and I'm wondering if running a lot of carbon in a media reactor, along with some big water changes and skimming would remove the fungicide from my system over the course of a week or so. Anyone have any expertise to chime in with?

The alternative would be to drain the system and cycle all over again, etc.

I would suspect that if you don't remove the silicone that caused your issue it would continue to leach out for quite some time before being completly removed, if it even could be completly removed. I'm thinking everything should come apart and be bleached and started over. I hope someone has an easier solution but I don't believe that you have a safe alternative

 

[Mjrenz]

Also, make sure your brothers tank is running plenty of carbon

 

[RobW]

What a bummer. I wouldn't trust it. I think it will continue to leach and just keep being an issue. Better to nip it in the bud now then to have it cause more headache and money later.

 

[ReefEsq]

I agree with each and every one of you in that the GE2 should be (and was) removed. I went through with a razor blade and did my best to make sure I got every last bit of it. I was wondering in terms of moving forward, essentially if y'all thought I'd be safe running a whole lot of carbon but keeping my rock/sand.

 

[RobW]

I agree with each and every one of you in that the GE2 should be (and was) removed. I went through with a razor blade and did my best to make sure I got every last bit of it. I was wondering in terms of moving forward, essentially if y'all thought I'd be safe running a whole lot of carbon but keeping my rock/sand.

You could pull all the rock and sand out, bleach and cure the rock. Rinse the sand well and recycle the tank.

 

[Mjrenz]

Maybe @Randy Holmes-Farley can tell us if it's possible to remove by just using carbon and if there is any way to test it it's safe before adding anymore livestock

 

[dwest]

I agree with each and every one of you in that the GE2 should be (and was) removed. I went through with a razor blade and did my best to make sure I got every last bit of it. I was wondering in terms of moving forward, essentially if y'all thought I'd be safe running a whole lot of carbon but keeping my rock/sand.

I had a similar experience some time ago. Once my silicone was removed, I only did normal water changes. Everything seemed to bounce back rather quickly. I run a skimmer and GAC in my system but no other media. I left my liverock and sand and made no other changes.

 

[nereefpat]

How long did you wait for the GE2 to cure before adding it to the tank?

RTV, I believe, releases either ammonia or acetic acid as it cures. It can take a while for it to be safe.

 

[ReefEsq]

How long did you wait for the GE2 to cure before adding it to the tank?

RTV, I believe, releases either ammonia or acetic acid as it cures. It can take a while for it to be safe.

Definitely not long enough I suppose. Definitely 24 hours, but I'm almost just as sure that it didn't get to 48. I've seen varying opinions on how long to leave it. What would you suggest?

 

[ReefEsq]

I had a similar experience some time ago. Once my silicone was removed, I only did normal water changes. Everything seemed to bounce back rather quickly. I run a skimmer and GAC in my system but no other media. I left my liverock and sand and made no other changes.

Ok, that's reassuring to know! Thanks.

 

[ReefEsq]

Maybe @Randy Holmes-Farley can tell us if it's possible to remove by just using carbon and if there is any way to test it it's safe before adding anymore livestock

That'd be awesome!! @Randy Holmes-Farley

 

[nereefpat]

Definitely not long enough I suppose. Definitely 24 hours, but I'm almost just as sure that it didn't get to 48. I've seen varying opinions on how long to leave it. What would you suggest?

24 isn't nearly long enough. It's hard to say how long is enough. How long depends on how thick the bead is, temp and humidity in the room, and probably a few other things.

I would wait a week at least. Once it's actually cured, it should be safe.

 

[High ICP]

I bet that GE makes the claim that the silicone will be free of mildew for years

 

[ReefEsq]

24 isn't nearly long enough. It's hard to say how long is enough. How long depends on how thick the bead is, temp and humidity in the room, and probably a few other things.

I would wait a week at least. Once it's actually cured, it should be safe.

You're completely right. I'll be leaving it at least a week once I redo the baffles in reef safe silicone. I'm just curious now as to what I have to do to get the *whatever it was* out of my system.

 

[Skydvr]

nereefpat has the factors for curing correct. Temperature, humidity, and bead thickness all play a roll. You need moderate humidity (low and high humidity will slow cure times) and temperature at least in the upper 70’s (F) to cure quickly. Airflow can help cure times as well.

I’ll usually leave it a week to be safe as well, but that is also partly due to scheduling. Somethimes I’ll throw some damp papertowels or a small dish with water if I am building something in the middle of winter.

I believe GE I is an acetoxy cure. It will have a vinegar smell as it cures if it is. I tend to prefer the Momentive 100 series RTV; I am not 100% sure what type the GE caulk is. If it is acetoxy cure and still has a slight vinegar smell, it is still curing. It should be odorless when fully cured. Thick beads may stop giving off a smell if the outer edges have fully cured, but the middle has not, so smell isn’t a guarantee that the silicone is cured.

 

[dbjonesjr]

I'm not sure that many of these people understand your question. You are asking if your sock and sand are still good correct? As long as you removed the source of the problem just use large water changes and carbon to solve your problem.

 

[Skydvr]

We understand.
We are helping them to understand and avoid another potential issue as the original problem may have not been purely attributed to the mold inhibitors, but also partly due to silicone that was not fully cured.

I don’t have any experience with mold inhibitors and lack the chemical background necessary to make an informed decision or recommendation on whether carbon would be sufficient, so I refrained from responding to that quesstion.

 

[ReefEsq]

I'm not sure that many of these people understand your question. You are asking if your sock and sand are still good correct? As long as you removed the source of the problem just use large water changes and carbon to solve your problem.

We understand.
We are helping them to understand and avoid another potential issue as the original problem may have not been purely attributed to the mold inhibitors, but also partly due to silicone that was not fully cured.

I don’t have any experience with mold inhibitors and lack the chemical background necessary to make an informed decision or recommendation on whether carbon would be sufficient, so I refrained from responding to that quesstion.

Both your responses are helpful. I've definitely learned about letting the silicone cure properly. Truth be told, I'm so busy with school it'll be two weeks until I can put the rock back in the water. Also, during that time I'll continue to use carbon, skim, and maybe throw in some bacteria in a bottle (and ammonia drops) to keep the bacteria colony in the sand healthy.

 

[Lasse]

Quick Google search give this in the first row - my bold

GE Silicone 2+ Kitchen & Bath 100% Silicone is a 100% waterproof sealant with 10-year mold-free product protection

It contains an anti-mold chemichal that they claim are active for 10 years. These agents kill even fish and other aquatic animals. Even if you have wait for a year before filling water - it had kill your livestock. This is not the first time it happens and not the last either.

Take away all of it. If it was my aquarium I would - in order to be safe - rinse all sand and rocks and do a 100% WC.

Sincerely Lasse