Noob needs advice about a cannister filter

Paperfish

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Good evening fine people,

I'm new to reefing.

I run a 52 gallon setup, been running for +- 9 months now. Cycling with dry rock seems to be... slow (but that's a different topic).
I have a cannister running as well with an external heater on it (I used to be in the fresh water side of the universe).

----> Now, can I leave the cannister out? <----

It might become a polluting bomb sooner or later.

My setup:

Tech used:

- Aqua Medic Aquarius 60 (led lights + controller... whites dimmed to max 10% - reds off - UV max 20%)
- Hydor Slim Skim protein skimmer Nano 250 (up to 66 gallon)
- Hydor EXTERNAL PROFESSIONAL FILTER 350 EU
- Hydor external heater 300W.
- Small filter that I use from time to time to run carbon
- Jecod/Jebao SLW-20 M wave maker (@100%)
- Tunze nanostream

Sand / rock

Sandbed: Red Sea Live Ocean White 0,25-1mm +- 1 to 2 inch.
Rock: AquaForest AF Rock Mix (dry rock)

Live stock:

- 3 Nassarius snails + 2 babies I've noticed :)
- 2 Trochus snails
- 1 Seahare (Dolabella Auricularia / eats a ton of algea / I feed nori sheets now and then to keep him healthy)
- 2 clownfish (Amphiprion Occelaris)
- 2 Filament-finned prawn-goby (Stonogobiops Nematodes)

Softies:

- Zoanthids (doing well)
- 2 x Sinularia Dura (doing well bright fluo green)
- 1 Pulsing Xenia (doing bad.. seems to be melting)

Other:

- I add bacteria daily
- I dose Iodine
- Copepods are doing fine :D

Love to hear from you old rods in the field.

Kind regards,
B
 
Ran a 29g with heavy population of damsels, maroon clowns and eel in the 90s on nothing more complicated than an Eheim canister. Due to work and fun didn't have much time for maintenance plus wasn't my first rodeo skipping water changes. System worked fine. I'd clean the canister when flow got too slow and changed the carbon only when water started yellowing. Eheim was loaded with BioChem Stars. Similar to today's Matrix, Brightwell Bricks or Marine Pure media with internal pores. Seems the longer it went between cleaning the lower my nitrates went. Granted it was fish only and I didn't get concerned until it reached 80 ppm. Would settle around 20 - 40.

Salt no different than fresh for the most part except for the salt and certain demands like calcium and alkalinity depending on what's kept and even that is still needed in fresh. Just doesn't get consumed as much. Mbuna keepers can relate to high alkalinity and PH. Although for the most part life forms much more interesting.
 
Salt no different than fresh for the most part except for the salt and certain demands like calcium and alkalinity depending on what's kept and even that is still needed in fresh. Just doesn't get consumed as much. Mbuna keepers can relate to high alkalinity and PH. Although for the most part life forms much more interesting.
Yeah replenishing trace elements / working on that. I should probably aim for a weekly 10% water change?
 
I will look into that, less hassle to detach and clean.
Waaaaaay less. And it also has a slot to attach the heater and you get some additional flow/aeration as well. I like the Tidals because they have a surface and sub-surface intake - which eliminates scum/film on the surface of the water.
 
I have run Reefs and marine tanks with Eheims for 25 plus years, NEVER an ISSUe dont believe everything thats printed, do ur own research and if u do regular maintenance should not be a problem. And by the way if u use hang ons go with aquaclears 110. Lots of space for media and will NOT GRIND if water levels drop like seachem!!! LOL
 
I have run Reefs and marine tanks with Eheims for 25 plus years, NEVER an ISSUe dont believe everything thats printed, do ur own research and if u do regular maintenance should not be a problem. And by the way if u use hang ons go with aquaclears 110. Lots of space for media and will NOT GRIND if water levels drop like seachem!!! LOL
When you say "regular maintenance" is that monthly or... every 3 months? ( I understand that it depends on bioload ofc). I have used cannister filters for my fresh water tanks years ago / never had an issue. Just wondered if it's needed when I use a protein skimmer etc.. :)
 
Yeah replenishing trace elements / working on that. I should probably aim for a weekly 10% water change?
That’s the industry standard but I don’t. Never been a fan of WC. Prefer the stability of better filtration. Swim at your own risk however.
 
Good evening fine people,

I'm new to reefing.

I run a 52 gallon setup, been running for +- 9 months now. Cycling with dry rock seems to be... slow (but that's a different topic).
I have a cannister running as well with an external heater on it (I used to be in the fresh water side of the universe).

----> Now, can I leave the cannister out? <----

It might become a polluting bomb sooner or later.

My setup:

Tech used:

- Aqua Medic Aquarius 60 (led lights + controller... whites dimmed to max 10% - reds off - UV max 20%)
- Hydor Slim Skim protein skimmer Nano 250 (up to 66 gallon)
- Hydor EXTERNAL PROFESSIONAL FILTER 350 EU
- Hydor external heater 300W.
- Small filter that I use from time to time to run carbon
- Jecod/Jebao SLW-20 M wave maker (@100%)
- Tunze nanostream

Sand / rock

Sandbed: Red Sea Live Ocean White 0,25-1mm +- 1 to 2 inch.
Rock: AquaForest AF Rock Mix (dry rock)

Live stock:

- 3 Nassarius snails + 2 babies I've noticed :)
- 2 Trochus snails
- 1 Seahare (Dolabella Auricularia / eats a ton of algea / I feed nori sheets now and then to keep him healthy)
- 2 clownfish (Amphiprion Occelaris)
- 2 Filament-finned prawn-goby (Stonogobiops Nematodes)

Softies:

- Zoanthids (doing well)
- 2 x Sinularia Dura (doing well bright fluo green)
- 1 Pulsing Xenia (doing bad.. seems to be melting)

Other:

- I add bacteria daily
- I dose Iodine
- Copepods are doing fine :D

Love to hear from you old rods in the field.

Kind regards,
B
Not sure I'm an old rod - but...

1. Your dry rock is cycled - to the level of ammonia your fish are producing IMHO
2. I would not use a HOB or a canister filter - I dont know if you have a sump
3. I would stop adding bacteria daily - they will grow
4. IF you DONT have a sump - an aqua clear - is an awesome suggestion. I cant tell if you do or dont
 
Not sure I'm an old rod - but...

1. Your dry rock is cycled - to the level of ammonia your fish are producing IMHO
2. I would not use a HOB or a canister filter - I dont know if you have a sump
3. I would stop adding bacteria daily - they will grow
4. IF you DONT have a sump - an aqua clear - is an awesome suggestion. I cant tell if you do or dont
1. ---> I hope so, no ammonia when testing + had all the "ugly" things... GHA is the latest (is under control now)
2. ---> No sump... I have a DIY aquarium / hence the in-tank skimmer
3. ---> Might need to cut down on that (and might vinegar dose...)
4. ---> What is an "aqua clear"? <----- :)
 

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