Normal Anemone Behavior

twelvefive

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Is it normal for an anemone to have a gaping mouth in the morning when the lights come on, then look totally normal a few hours later?
 
Had to read this because there's no such thing as a normal anemone. Hope that answers your question.
 
No, it isn't normal at all.

What type of anemone?
What size tank?
What lights do you have?
How long have you had the anemone?
How long has the tank been set up?
What are your current water parameters? (( with numbers please ))
 
No, it isn't normal at all.

What type of anemone?
What size tank?
What lights do you have?
How long have you had the anemone?
How long has the tank been set up?
What are your current water parameters? (( with numbers please ))

something tells me this guy is going to answer your question!:couch2:
 
No, it isn't normal at all.

What type of anemone?
What size tank?
What lights do you have?
How long have you had the anemone?
How long has the tank been set up?
What are your current water parameters? (( with numbers please ))

Green BTA
125 with 40 gallon sump
2 Ecoxotic stunner strips, 1 Ecoxotic Marine Pro, 1 Evoxotic Actnic.
Exactly 1 week.
2 months under my care, about 2 years from the guy I got it from.
35 SG
81•
Ammonia 0
Nitrate <5
Phosphate <.25
Ph 8.4
Alk 7.9
Calcium 435
Magnesium 1300

has been hiding under a ledge since I got him and I've been trying to feed him mysis every other day.
 
Green BTA
125 with 40 gallon sump
2 Ecoxotic stunner strips, 1 Ecoxotic Marine Pro, 1 Evoxotic Actnic.
Exactly 1 week.
2 months under my care, about 2 years from the guy I got it from.
35 SG
81•
Ammonia 0
Nitrate <5
Phosphate <.25
Ph 8.4
Alk 7.9
Calcium 435
Magnesium 1300

has been hiding under a ledge since I got him and I've been trying to feed him mysis every other day.

So you bought a running tank and moved it to your place? If so, how far was the move?

The phosphates are too high.

Do you know what lights the anemone was under? Did you acclimate it to your lights? I prefer to use 3 layers of window screening, supported by egg crate, b/t the tank and the lights. Remove a layer every 5-7 days.
 
So you bought a running tank and moved it to your place? If so, how far was the move?

The phosphates are too high.

Do you know what lights the anemone was under? Did you acclimate it to your lights? I prefer to use 3 layers of window screening, supported by egg crate, b/t the tank and the lights. Remove a layer every 5-7 days.

2 miles

Ok, water change or start dosing vodka or both?

It was under Ecoxotic Actnics in a shallow tank, I didn't light acclimate, I assumed placing it low in my 125 wouldn't be a lot more light than it was getting in a shallow tank with just actnics.
 
BTA's have no brain and are not smart enough to get themselves in the light. Is there a way you can turn the rock over so that it is in the light?
 
BTA's have no brain and are not smart enough to get themselves in the light. Is there a way you can turn the rock over so that it is in the light?

I tried that Friday evening about 2 hours before lights went off and left him there for a few hours Saturday and he flipped out and shriveled up and looked worse than he does in the mornings.
 
it took me 3 nems before i finally realized what the problem was with my tank--my temp was too high--83--so,we put a little fan blowing over the sump and got the temp to stay at 80--plus now i feed the nem every 2 or 3 days--he has stayed in one spot and eats eagerly!!!! if u do a fan please realize there will be more evaporation so keep some top off water at all times!! as far as the gaping mouth-yes--its normal--but only for short periods of time--thats how they expel waste--u should see brown stringy stuff--then when they are done the mouth will close up and a few hours later they should reinflate. If the mouth stays opens for days---its not a good sign--again--i had to learn the hard way as to why my nems werent happy---for me it was a simple as using a fan to get my temp down a couple degrees.I hope this helps!
 
also--i just looked at your readings--looks like a refugium would help u out a lot as far as the nitrates and phosphates---i had a horrible problem with those for a long time---my nitrates got up to 80!!!!!!! we broke down and got a refugium and put some really nice bright green chaeto in it and since then--0 nitrates 0 phosphates 0 ammonia!! that stuff really does work!! But-----another lesson learned---make sure the chaeto is bright green--not dark green---bright is healthy!!!
 
sorry--its me again--lol!!! one more thing---try feeding it some frozen krill---thawed of course---i give mine about 3 pieces every 2 or 3 days--i have tried pieces of silversides but either he dont like it or a few hours later my cleaner shrimp dig it out of him---i think maybe the nems digest the krill faster than the silversides so my shrimp dont have a chance to dig it out---but i think mysis is too small for a nem to get full on
 
it took me 3 nems before i finally realized what the problem was with my tank--my temp was too high--83--so,we put a little fan blowing over the sump and got the temp to stay at 80--plus now i feed the nem every 2 or 3 days--he has stayed in one spot and eats eagerly!!!! if u do a fan please realize there will be more evaporation so keep some top off water at all times!! as far as the gaping mouth-yes--its normal--but only for short periods of time--thats how they expel waste--u should see brown stringy stuff--then when they are done the mouth will close up and a few hours later they should reinflate. If the mouth stays opens for days---its not a good sign--again--i had to learn the hard way as to why my nems werent happy---for me it was a simple as using a fan to get my temp down a couple degrees.I hope this helps!

My tank was running at 77* and I really want it to be closer to 80*, the heater is turned on the lowest setting and it holds between 81 and 82* throughout the day. If I unplug the heater, it's going to drop back to 77-78*. His mouth is only open for a few hours in the mornings, then he looks like a normal BTA the rest of the day.

also--i just looked at your readings--looks like a refugium would help u out a lot as far as the nitrates and phosphates---i had a horrible problem with those for a long time---my nitrates got up to 80!!!!!!! we broke down and got a refugium and put some really nice bright green chaeto in it and since then--0 nitrates 0 phosphates 0 ammonia!! that stuff really does work!! But-----another lesson learned---make sure the chaeto is bright green--not dark green---bright is healthy!!!

I'm running Chaeto in my sump with a CFL. I think that is what's keeping my levels stable. My trates and phosphate have not gone up in the past 3 weeks and I'm a heavy feeder, but I also have a stellar clean up crew that doesn't let anything on the sandbed go to waste. I don't run a skimmer or any filters, just live rock and chaeto.
 
sorry--its me again--lol!!! one more thing---try feeding it some frozen krill---thawed of course---i give mine about 3 pieces every 2 or 3 days--i have tried pieces of silversides but either he dont like it or a few hours later my cleaner shrimp dig it out of him---i think maybe the nems digest the krill faster than the silversides so my shrimp dont have a chance to dig it out---but i think mysis is too small for a nem to get full on

Any time I touch him with krill, frozen or freeze dried, he closes up and won't touch it.
 
What is your ORP level and range? I'm really starting to think ORP controls the entire world after all the research I've done. No skimmer could just be what is irritating your nem. The fact he won't eat krill is odd, maybe try something not so solid like green water or even fresh brine hatchlings?
 

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