Not another tank trim removal question!
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KoleTang
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Don't forget that it will be higher than 9" when the return is off.
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Sandpaper - wet or dry - will definitely smooth over sharp edges. I do it often when I am building something. I cut my own glass in a lot of cases and that is how I dull the sharp, fresh cut edges.
The baffles in the middle will not alleviate the load on the seams, in fact they will impart an additional load depending how they are in there.
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Tom@HaslettMI
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That's true and I think I'd be OK. Based on my calculations the sump water level would only rise a about a third of an inch. And that's if the water level was even across the whole sump. But the return section (dimensions yet to be determined) will probably be only 6-7 inches deep. So, there won't be even that much of an increase.
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Tom@HaslettMI
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Google load equilibrium and how to draw a free body diagram. Then draw one for your glass with and without the baffles, account for either the baffles pulling on the glass (silicone is in tension) or the baffles pushing on the glass (silicone in compression). When you draw your free body diagram and add in your reactive loads at the seams they will be larger than no baffles if the baffles impart a certain load.
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Tom@HaslettMI
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If I understand correctly the issue would be if the baffles are too big and are pushing against the tank it would create more load on the seams. But if the baffles are slightly smaller, then the baffles would reduce the stress on the seams. Right?
Tom
The loading behavior on the seams will be changed. You have to remember, the baffles are being loaded by the water in a direction perpendicular to them...this load is passed along the glass into the side glass the baffle is glued to. Not just the load from installing the baffle alone.
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Tom@HaslettMI
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Very interesting and something I never thought of before. So, how much more of an impact would the baffles have on a de-rimmed tank as opposed to a tank with the top trim still on it. In other words, is installing baffles in a fully trimmed tank a bad idea?
Tom
The effect from the baffles may be negligible on both, I haven't worked it out...but you could using basic equilibrium, a free body diagram, the height of the water, an the velocity of the water moving through it. I was just pointing out the baffles may not behave like you expect. How are most sumps? Do they have trims or braced? Personally, I'd go with whatever the norm is...these things were figured out a long time ago, with working solutions put in place.
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If you don't like the look of the trim, you could also paint it with some Krylon Fusion to make it whatever color you like. One of our local reefers has an open stand on his nano. He painted the sump trim white and the front glass red, with a white wave graphic on the front. Actually looks very nice.
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So Tom, have you started your sump yet? I have built several tanks for myself and others. I do only rimless and only glass when I build tanks. The biggest so far is my 65g (48" x 22" x 14") frag tank. It is 3/8" glass and has no bracing and has no bow in the glass. Here is my 65g frag tank in use:
Any good RTV silicone works fine, I get mine from Graingers (don't use the cheap stuff from HD or Lowes). I also have a 180g DT that I took off the bottom trim and set on a thin foam yoga mat on a 3/4" marine plywood top of a diy stand. That was 4+ years ago and it's still 100% fine. I also just took a 125g acrylic tank (72" x 18" x 24") that was euro braced. I use it as a sump and the euro bracing gets in my way, so I cut the top 1/2" of tank off with a circular saw. Then I added my own center brace and it works just fine. I filled it to the rim and let it sit out in the sun on my driveway (SW Florida) for 2 days. The sides are perfectly flat and no leaks.
I say your plan is good and you should give it a go. Just do some water testing with it before you put it to use in the house. I currently have a 40g tank I'm building for a customer that is full of water and sitting out on a stand in my driveway. It's been there for 72 hours. I'll drain it today, drill it for bulkheads and add corner overflows and then water test it again to make sure the overflows keep all the water out of the drain area.
Any good RTV silicone works fine, I get mine from Graingers (don't use the cheap stuff from HD or Lowes). I also have a 180g DT that I took off the bottom trim and set on a thin foam yoga mat on a 3/4" marine plywood top of a diy stand. That was 4+ years ago and it's still 100% fine. I also just took a 125g acrylic tank (72" x 18" x 24") that was euro braced. I use it as a sump and the euro bracing gets in my way, so I cut the top 1/2" of tank off with a circular saw. Then I added my own center brace and it works just fine. I filled it to the rim and let it sit out in the sun on my driveway (SW Florida) for 2 days. The sides are perfectly flat and no leaks.
I say your plan is good and you should give it a go. Just do some water testing with it before you put it to use in the house. I currently have a 40g tank I'm building for a customer that is full of water and sitting out on a stand in my driveway. It's been there for 72 hours. I'll drain it today, drill it for bulkheads and add corner overflows and then water test it again to make sure the overflows keep all the water out of the drain area.
impreza_monkey
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here i am gonna add on to this, i have a 90 hagen tank, (48x18x24 tall) its 3/8 thick, it was given to me the trim on the top is broken at the corners, (i believe it was just picked up wrong,) should i have this replaced asap or is it ok with it like that or can i just take it off, its been like this for some time now, and im just curious, thanks for the input, thanks
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Tom@HaslettMI
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Has it been filled up and running like this?
impreza_monkey
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yeah I have had it running since November2013, but my fiancés brother who had given it to us he had it up and running for over 3 years, but not sure of how long its been like that, but yeah I have had it running no problems since November
