Not sure if it is ich

[Deberber]

My chalk bass has started to scratch itself on the sand bed. I can't exactly tell if there is a white dot on him or if it's his markings. Trying to find it on other fish as well. Regardless, does it hurt to start treating him with copper in a qt tank?

 

[melypr1985]

My chalk bass has started to scratch itself on the sand bed. I can't exactly tell if there is a white dot on him or if it's his markings. Trying to find it on other fish as well. Regardless, does it hurt to start treating him with copper in a qt tank?

Copper is a poison. It's useful because the fish can usually survive longer in it than the parasites. You can go ahead and treat them but treat them all at one time and run the DT fallow. This way, it's not a waste of time to treat one and return it to a tank with ick in it just to be reinfected.

The REAL question is: Is it actually ick? Can you get a good picture? Or do a freshwater dip on him to see if it's flukes?

 

[Deberber]

I'll try and getter a better picture tomorrow, but the lights are out now. It's on the clear part of the dorsal fin, a small white spot.

Would you try first just adding a cleaner shrimp?

 

[Triggreef]

Flukes? Other fish in the tank? How easy to catch one or all?

 

[melypr1985]

i see what could be fin rot and maybe the spot your talking about though. The cleaner shrimp wont help as much as you want it to- if at all. Do the freshwater dip to confirm/ rule out flukes first. Then transfer to QT

Here's how
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.

 

[Deberber]

Okay so I've noticed two white dots on a fin on my McCoskers wrasse as well. Can't exactly tell the difference between flukes and ich.

As far as catching, both the chalk bass and wrasse are extremely outgoing. Also, I've caught a yellowtail damsel before so I feel like these would be a lot easier than that.

Problem is I don't have a hospital tank setup.

 

[melypr1985]

In my example above this part tells you how to check for flukes
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

This is how to tell if there are flukes present. Your seeing white dots, so there could be ick in play as well. Without the FW dip and/or a better picture, I'm not able to rule out other things for you.

 

[Deberber]

Wow great walk through on how to do a FW dip. I'll try that tomorrow. If it is flukes, what do I do to treat that? Still a qt tank or is there an in tank treatment that is reef safe?

 

[melypr1985]

Wow great walk through on how to do a FW dip. I'll try that tomorrow. If it is flukes, what do I do to treat that? Still a qt tank or is there an in tank treatment that is reef safe?

You can treat flukes with prazipro in the DT, though if your seeing the white spots and think its ick, then you'll need to take them out anyway for treatment of that.

 

[Deberber]

Yeah, thanks for the help! I hadn't even thought about flukes. I'll update when I know more. But yeah, there are two definite white dots on my wrasse fin on the right side.Regardless, I think I'm going to go get a tank tomorrow.

In regards to setting that up, just the heater, powerheads, pvc pipes, and tank water?

 

[melypr1985]

In regards to setting that up, just the heater, powerheads, pvc pipes, and tank water?

You'll need an HOB filter of some sort and an ammonia alert badge. A bacteria in a bottle type of product will help as well. Dont use prime or any other conditioner if you plan on going the copper route.