Not Sure if this Cyano or Coralline Algae

[taylorg009]

Noticed this in my refugium today. Not quite sure what exactly it is?

Also noticed this brighter red algae top of my Aquascape kind of suspect cyano for that one.

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated thanks in advanced

I will update with water parameters shortly.

 

[Current Tides]

both look like cyano id say. when you post your params that might confirm things. does it feel slimy or hard?

 

[taylorg009]

yeah the little bit in the display tank is slimy haven't touched the purple in the refugium

 

[Van Eternal]

Imo its cyano

 

[taylorg009]

water params:

temp: 76.6
ph: 8.31
nh3: 0.001
salinity: 1.025
dKH: 11.8
calcium: 428
nitrate: around 10 ppm (only test I don't have digital yet)
phosphate: 0.03 ppm


will edit after I get the mag test done

 

[Van Eternal]

water params:

temp: 76.6
ph: 8.31
nh3: 0.001
salinity: 1.025
dKH: 11.8
calcium: 428

will edit after I get the mag test done

Do you know your no3 and po4?

 

[damsels are not mean]

that is cyano

 

[taylorg009]

Do you know your no3 and po4?

Do you know your no3 and po4?

getting those now

 

[Itsadeepbluesea]

I'd say Cyano, does not look like coralline

 

[vetteguy53081]

its cyano . What is your maintenance schedule or cleaning regimen ?
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations go haywire. Just like when you eat too much sugar and your waistline starts to bloom, the same happens in your tank when concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend reducing white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[Current Tides]

water params:

temp: 76.6
ph: 8.31
nh3: 0.001
salinity: 1.025
dKH: 11.8
calcium: 428
nitrate: around 10 ppm (only test I don't have digital yet)
phosphate: 0.03 ppm


will edit after I get the mag test done

your params seem fine to me, could lower the nitrates a bit in an effort to starve it the best you can, but you're probably gonna have to medicate :/ don't worry about not having a digital test, the only ones of those I have are for salinity and copper. API test kit works fine for pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. phosphate is pretty reliable id say too.

 

[damsels are not mean]

your params seem fine to me, could lower the nitrates a bit in an effort to starve it the best you can, but you're probably gonna have to medicate :/ don't worry about not having a digital test, the only ones of those I have are for salinity and copper. API test kit works fine for pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. phosphate is pretty reliable id say too.

You can't starve cyano out with nutrient control. Cyano grows in areas where detritus accumulates or there is something decaying to eat. Generally it starves itself out eventually and is normal in any reef. Only would suggest drastic efforts if it's out of control and choking other livestock. Otherwise don't do anything crazy except siphoning it out and being patient.

Cyano does not, I repeat does not crash tanks. People overreacting to cyano absolutely does crash tanks.