NOT WHAT I THOUGHT IT WOULD BE.

The tank I'm running right now is a custom shallow 50g 16x16x48. I'm running about as bare bones a system as possible and have some great growth so far, it's only had coral about two months. I run a return pump, 4 bulb t5 Hamilton fixture, small skimz skimmer, 4" body probably rated75-100g, and really it's almost just an ozone reactor for my $100 spa ozone generator. And an algae turf scrubber. Now I do run a m1 vectors return and run about 15x tank vol through the sump, and have two mp10 vortechs, and two tunze nano streams. So it's about $2k in the setup. And then an apex.

Yea it's a bit overkill for a 50g but I run <1ppm no3 and 0.03 po4. It runs on an auto feeder and if it weren't for adding water I could walk away from it for two weeks and it will be fine, in fact I already have gone on two week long trips. Now I do build large custom tanks for a living so the whole idea was to not deal with all these additives adjustments and what not because the last thing I want to do when I get home is more tank work... So I run no gfo, no carbon and only dose Randy's 2 part, and still haven't done a single water change. It's setup a bit complex and it's taken 8 years experience to get back to a natural reef, but I find it much more relaxing when I dose as few additives as possible and go more au naturale.
That sounds awesome. Just the kind of example I was looking for. Thanks
 
The tank I'm running right now is a custom shallow 50g 16x16x48. I'm running about as bare bones a system as possible and have some great growth so far, it's only had coral about two months. I run a return pump, 4 bulb t5 Hamilton fixture, small skimz skimmer, 4" body probably rated75-100g, and really it's almost just an ozone reactor for my $100 spa ozone generator. And an algae turf scrubber. Now I do run a m1 vectors return and run about 15x tank vol through the sump, and have two mp10 vortechs, and two tunze nano streams. So it's about $2k in the setup. And then an apex.

Yea it's a bit overkill for a 50g but I run <1ppm no3 and 0.03 po4. It runs on an auto feeder and if it weren't for adding water I could walk away from it for two weeks and it will be fine, in fact I already have gone on two week long trips. Now I do build large custom tanks for a living so the whole idea was to not deal with all these additives adjustments and what not because the last thing I want to do when I get home is more tank work... So I run no gfo, no carbon and only dose Randy's 2 part, and still haven't done a single water change. It's setup a bit complex and it's taken 8 years experience to get back to a natural reef, but I find it much more relaxing when I dose as few additives as possible and go more au naturale.
Do you have a tank thread. I'd like to follow that.
 
I expect to replenish natural elements used up by my critters. I just prefer a more natural appraoch. When I had a gha problem, I got a sea hare, aiptasia...peppermint shrimp. I'm not lazy with my tank. I put in hours a day on cleaning and maintenance. I am also not cheap.
It does get confusing. ESP if you read the internet too much. Im in the same boat you are. And yea you actually can do it the way your talking about.
Pay close attention to what Randy F has to say. Dig into it actually. Not the numbers, the principals. Its a lot more of a natural approach than you think. Took me years to figure that one out.
Why carbon dosing works is what kicked it off. Yup sat up late looking at molecules.:confused:
Chemistry and mathematics help explain nature to the apes. Its only the apes who keep thinking they can improve upon nature.
And then their Xena dies.:D
 
I have never used chemicals like stump remover, peroxide, or vodka. Normally it is a skimmer, refuge tank with macro algae, and supplements for calcium/ALK/Magnesium. On occasion I would use some activated carbon if something died and might release toxins. I believe in trying to have a more natural balance through biological filtration. As I build my new system I am taking the same approach.
That is just where I am at. I ran some carbon last week because my sea hare dissapeared and the water started to smell. I feel like I want to stay as natural as possibly in a small closed system. Some of the methods out there just seem to be on the other side of a line that I am not willing to cross. At least at this point in time.
 
Remember reefs are not self contained units. They have low nutrient water coming in from the open ocean which sweep over the reef and carry away much of the waste.

I have a new tank going. It has a very low bio load. My rock is still leaching some phosphates. So I add alcohol daily. But doing so rapidly takes my nitrates to in unmeasurable. So I add some KNO3, stump remover, so I can maintain some barely detectable nitrate levels. The bacteria growth from the alcohol and nitrates is removed by the skimmer and reduces phosphates.

I could do the same thing with massive water changes, a refugium, algae scrubber. But I lack the natural system's low nutrient waters coming in off the open ocean.

Our nano reefs are not "natural". Coral reefs are typically quite large usually miles in length and not 4' by 2'. Coral reefs don't have heaters, LED lights, return pumps, protein skimmers, sumps, power heads, controllers etc.

Now it is esthetically pleasing to use what we deem to be natural methods. But what we are maintaining are reef gardens and not self maintaining ecosystems.
 
That is just where I am at. I ran some carbon last week because my sea hare dissapeared and the water started to smell. I feel like I want to stay as natural as possibly in a small closed system. Some of the methods out there just seem to be on the other side of a line that I am not willing to cross. At least at this point in time.

I think the most difficult thing about dealing with issues when they arise in a reef aquariums is that changes to balance the system take time. I used to battle 100+ ppm nitrates on my first saltwater aquarium and it took years to get a solution that worked. It was before Internet Forums like Reef2Reef were around. When I finally got the biological filter built to handle the high nitrates it took a couple of months to get them down to acceptable levels. I know that many chemicals have been shown to resolve issues quickly or get them under control but to me that is almost like putting a band-aid on a broken bone. The beauty of this hobby is there are so many successful ways to maintain and grow a reef. The hardest part for me right now is that I am going to be in the build phase for a while. Just hang in there and you will eventually find the right balance to give you a ideal reef environment.
 
my 120 gal. is full of coral. no sps. I don't dose anything. bi-weekly wc's. 2 1/2 years and all is well. never any nitrates but trying to reduce phosphates which I think are causing some diatoms on my sand and glass. I cringe when I read about what people dose with. not saying there is anything wrong with it. just not for me. if I had to even think about dosing vinegar, stump remover, etc. I would go back to fw. may not be the best looking tank, but for the easy maintenance and simple set up, I'm happy.

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Looks terrific.
 
I don't have a tank thread yet but here is a pic with all the filtration, ATS, skimmer, ozone to the side and m1 vectra in the back. Also a monti cap that's been in the tank 3-4 weeks has about 1/4" new growth. I'm still adjusting alk and calcium levels so it will probably get better, and I need to change bulbs to adjust spectrum... I bought the glass 6 months ago, tank has been running 4 months but has only had coral and lighting since December 1st.

I have built and seen more tanks than most and I would say the key to a "natural" reef is high flow and a high powered refugium, that's lots of flow and lots of light. I would recommend 10x minimum flow through the sump/refugium vs the standard 3-5, and a minimum of 50x tank turnover for corals, 100x for sps, and for detritus removal. Other than that you just need standard lighting and skimming.
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Corals adapted to an environment where chemicals are readily available to them. Coral settle and grow in different area's of the Reef due to the environment that they find suitable for their species. They rely on the water for food and nutrients to grow. When we place them in our aquariums they have to adapt to what they are given. Many corals do well like most soft corals which do not live in a low nutrient environment that SPS live in. Sps use the chemicals in the water to provide the building blocks for their calcium skeletons.
One can keep a "Natural" tank if they wish and they can have success. The corals may not be as colorful as those in nature but they will adapt to the basic conditions that you as a hobbyist give them. If you choose to dig deeper into what corals require you will be rewarded with a more colorful reef tank. Its all in what you want to do with "YOUR" tank.
 
Build a waterfall algae turf scrubber for your sump. It is easy and cheap and a good way to avoid dosing vinegar or anything else (except for calcium, trace elements, etc to keep your corals heathy). An ats will naturally remove nitrates and phosphates through nutrient exchange process. And will keep your algae growth in check.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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