NSA aquascape and gluong down corals?

[Devaji]

So as I make my NSA scape I got to thinking how are you folks dealing with attaching your frags?
Most NSA scape are to big and bulky to remove.

So what's your methoid for making sure those frags stay put?

Are you gluing them in the tank with putty and super glue?
Any other tips and tricks out there?
Cheers

 

[Mike from TN]

I use super glue gel (loctite brand) right in the tank. Usually use wire cutters to cut the stem off of the frag plug and apply a pretty large gob of SG to the flat disk. Once it’s under water, I just twist it to break the skin on the glue and hold it there for a minute or so.
If the frag can be removed from the plug, I‘ll do that so it looks more natural in the tank.

 

[Biokabe]

I use the glue-putty sandwich method to mount my frags:

1) Pull the frag out of the water, trim the stem if necessary with my bonecutters (sometimes the stem is useful, sometimes not)

2) Dry the stem (or the underside of the plug, if no stem)

3) Apply a healthy gob of superglue (I use Maxspect most of the time, but almost any gel-based superglue will work) to the dried area

4) Work a slug of epoxy around the stem (or to the underside of the plug if no stem)

5) Apply a second gob of the same glue to the outside of the epoxy slug where it'll be mounted to the rock.

After that, carefully press into the rock where the frag will be mounted, hold for about 30-60 seconds to give the glue time to set.

Using the epoxy increases the surface area that the glue can stick to and allows you to really work the glue into the crevices of your rockwork. And using the glue to mate the epoxy to the frag plug overcomes the chief weakness of the epoxy - it doesn't adhere very well to smooth surfaces. So the plug stays attached to the epoxy, and the epoxy affixes the plug to the rock.

 

[MabuyaQ]

For me it is a two step proces.
In step one I use a small ball of ATI easyglue between rock and frag that I model in place so it fits nicely. I take this off before it fully sets and let it harden in a glass of water. In step two I glue the coralfrag to the 'mold' I made in step one with superglue and once this is hardened enough I superglue the 'mold' to the rock in the same position.
Perfect fit every time.

 

[Devaji]

I use the glue-putty sandwich method to mount my frags:

1) Pull the frag out of the water, trim the stem if necessary with my bonecutters (sometimes the stem is useful, sometimes not)

2) Dry the stem (or the underside of the plug, if no stem)

3) Apply a healthy gob of superglue (I use Maxspect most of the time, but almost any gel-based superglue will work) to the dried area

4) Work a slug of epoxy around the stem (or to the underside of the plug if no stem)

5) Apply a second gob of the same glue to the outside of the epoxy slug where it'll be mounted to the rock.

After that, carefully press into the rock where the frag will be mounted, hold for about 30-60 seconds to give the glue time to set.

Using the epoxy increases the surface area that the glue can stick to and allows you to really work the glue into the crevices of your rockwork. And using the glue to mate the epoxy to the frag plug overcomes the chief weakness of the epoxy - it doesn't adhere very well to smooth surfaces. So the plug stays attached to the epoxy, and the epoxy affixes the plug to the rock.

yeah that is my normal go to method. I guess with less LR in the DT only glue a few frags at a time.

 

[Devaji]

For me it is a two step proces.
In step one I use a small ball of ATI easyglue between rock and frag that I model in place so it fits nicely. I take this off before it fully sets and let it harden in a glass of water. In step two I glue the coralfrag to the 'mold' I made in step one with superglue and once this is hardened enough I superglue the 'mold' to the rock in the same position.
Perfect fit every time.

oh that is an interesting approach, i'll might give that a go when its time for corals...

 

[burningmime]

I use the glue-putty sandwich method to mount my frags:

1) Pull the frag out of the water, trim the stem if necessary with my bonecutters (sometimes the stem is useful, sometimes not)

2) Dry the stem (or the underside of the plug, if no stem)

3) Apply a healthy gob of superglue (I use Maxspect most of the time, but almost any gel-based superglue will work) to the dried area

4) Work a slug of epoxy around the stem (or to the underside of the plug if no stem)

5) Apply a second gob of the same glue to the outside of the epoxy slug where it'll be mounted to the rock.

After that, carefully press into the rock where the frag will be mounted, hold for about 30-60 seconds to give the glue time to set.

Using the epoxy increases the surface area that the glue can stick to and allows you to really work the glue into the crevices of your rockwork. And using the glue to mate the epoxy to the frag plug overcomes the chief weakness of the epoxy - it doesn't adhere very well to smooth surfaces. So the plug stays attached to the epoxy, and the epoxy affixes the plug to the rock.

Is there an affordable reef-safe epoxy? On a whim last year, I bought the Tunze Coral Gum. That $20 stick lasted for 3 frags.

 

[Devaji]

Is there an affordable reef-safe epoxy? On a whim last year, I bought the Tunze Coral Gum. That $20 stick lasted for 3 frags.

Jb water weld is what i use. just dont use to much at a time or your skimmer will over flow.

 

[Biokabe]

Is there an affordable reef-safe epoxy? On a whim last year, I bought the Tunze Coral Gum. That $20 stick lasted for 3 frags.

I like Two Little Fishies, or Fluval in a pinch. Avoid CoralCrete at all costs - the one time I used it, it took me three water changes and almost a month before my skimmer would work right again.