Nudis/Wrasse

[TarHeelReefer22]

First I would like to say that I started by searching the database for a previous thread on this issue and only ones with flatworms came up. I have a nudi problem with zoanthids and montipora. I have already picked up Salifert FWE as I have been told that was very effective even when dosing the whole tank. I will say that if this is route I go I will have to dose the whole tank as I have zoas and montis encrusting on rock that I will not remove to dip individually. The only reason that I have not already used the FWE is that I have two really nice maxima clams and I have read that it can kill them as well as SPS which is the dom inhabitants in the tank. I have a feeling that the SPS loss that I have been reading about is directly related to the toxins that the flatworms release into the water column as they die. Since I don't have flatworms, and using this treatment to kill nudis I was hoping my SPS would be safe.

The second option I considered was adding a sixline wrasse. I have owned this fish before so I don't need to know about aggression or precautions with this species I am well aware. I am trying him b/c I have also read that they will eat the nudis. My concern is that there are already to man in the tank for the sixline to gain control and eliminate the issue. Should I still try the FWE and do a have water change and over add new carbon? Thanks for any input!

 

[duke4130]

6 line or yellow coris is a good choice of fish. Honestly, I would take everything out and dip manually before I added anything like Flat Worm Exit. Is that possible to do?

 

[Rausch]

following along!! would love to hear the answer because i am dealing with this issue as well. I have the FWE but havnt pulled the trigger on dosing the tank yet. Looking for non-chemical options first

 

[duke4130]

I had a major pod problem in my tank... The big pods would come out at night and eat chalices and they had a taste for stratospheres and hallucinations...lol.... I added a 6 line wrasse and ever since then everything is thriving. I hear 6 lines are the best for flat worms. My tank is pest free and I have 3 wrasses in a 50 gallon. Another wrasse to think about that I didn't mention before is a melanarus wrasse. The only thing you have to worry about them is that they get to be pretty big at adulthood.

 

[N1Husker]

I had a major pod problem in my tank... The big pods would come out at night and eat chalices and they had a taste for stratospheres and hallucinations...lol.... I added a 6 line wrasse and ever since then everything is thriving. I hear 6 lines are the best for flat worms. My tank is pest free and I have 3 wrasses in a 50 gallon. Another wrasse to think about that I didn't mention before is a melanarus wrasse. The only thing you have to worry about them is that they get to be pretty big at adulthood.

I had a bad problem with flatworms and I was told to get a Melanurus (Hoevans) Wrasse. I got one and within two weeks he eradicated all of my flatworms. They didn't stand a chance. I don't know if they will go after nudi's, but I know he got the flatworms, he hasn't bothered anything else.

 

[3Dsam]

first remove as many of the nudis you can. they are easier to spot at nighttime if u flick the blue lights on they glow like zoas
then add a wrasse, any wrasse of the halichoeres genus should do the job (they love nudis and flatworms), most mix well with one another too so you don't just have to have one
this is my shortlist for my new frag tank that's very nearly finished cycling:
Halicheores biocelatus (redlined wrasse)
Halicheores melanarus (hoeverns)
Halicheores chrystotaenia (vroliks)
Halicheores Margaritaceus (pearly)
Halichoeres cosmetus (adorned)
Halichoeres Crysus (yellow)
Halichoeres claudia (Christmas Wrasse)

the only one to avoid is Halichoeres ornatissimus (false christmas wrasse, reported to nip polyps when food is scarce)

ime sixline wrasse are also good for pests but they do like to jump, plus some of the Halichoeres look much nicer.

 

[N1Husker]

first remove as many of the nudis you can. they are easier to spot at nighttime if u flick the blue lights on they glow like zoas
then add a wrasse, any wrasse of the halichoeres genus should do the job (they love nudis and flatworms), most mix well with one another too so you don't just have to have one
this is my shortlist for my new frag tank that's very nearly finished cycling:
Halicheores biocelatus (redlined wrasse)
Halicheores melanarus (hoeverns)
Halicheores chrystotaenia (vroliks)
Halicheores Margaritaceus (pearly)
Halichoeres cosmetus (adorned)
Halichoeres Crysus (yellow)
Halichoeres claudia (Christmas Wrasse)

the only one to avoid is Halichoeres ornatissimus (false christmas wrasse, reported to nip polyps when food is scarce)

ime sixline wrasse are also good for pests but they do like to jump, plus some of the Halichoeres look much nicer.

Sixlines are good at pest eradication but they can be little a**holes.

 

[duke4130]

Sixlines are good at pest eradication but they can be little a**holes.

+1..... Just make sure you get one that is smaller than the rest of your fish

 

[joshporksandwich]

All my tanks have 1 six line and 1 melanerus wrasse. They're great at eating nudis. Just make sure the six line is tiny like other people said. Yellow choris always suicide jumps

 

[TarHeelReefer22]

Thanks for the input guys/gals! I have added my friends sixline and he seems to be putting a dent in the population. It is not possible for me to pull all the montis and zoas out to dip as stated in the original post most of the corals are growing on base rocks! I will be plumbing a new tank into my system in the next month or so, so I am going to see how well this sixline does and if they are still there when I move the zoas and softies over to the new tank I will dip them then. I was planning on keeping a H. Melanerus to the softy tank to make sure no more pop up after the dip. Input is still appreciated

 

[TarHeelReefer22]

Just as an update I have noticed a considerable difference in the population of both zoa and monti eating nudis in the tank. Zoas are starting to open back up but I have still spotted some and manually removing them via turkey baster at night. Hopefully they will be gone soon and I won't have to us the FWE!

 

[N1Husker]

Just as an update I have noticed a considerable difference in the population of both zoa and monti eating nudis in the tank. Zoas are starting to open back up but I have still spotted some and manually removing them via turkey baster at night. Hopefully they will be gone soon and I won't have to us the FWE!

I hope you get it under control. That type of stuff can drive you crazy. Good luck man.

 

[reefwars]

even if you use the flatworm exit it does noting to the eggs , neither does coral disinfectant , rodi or other dips . unfortunately if you cant remove them for 3 weeks of dips then manual removeal is about all you have as a best weapon.

a coris wrasse or melanarus are my preferred fish for nudis.

montioporea nudis are easier to get rid of then zoa nudis as montipora nudis are almost always on the colopnies while during daylight hours zoa nudis hide out sometimes under polyps but also in rocks, under ply=ugs etc.


on RC i wrote/posted a 3 week treatment that works perfectly but you would breed to be able to get the pieces out of the tank and into dips.


we have tried ( on a mad scientist level ) all kinds of ways to kill them off even if its not practical ....from bleach to acid

you would be surprised what the eggs survived including pure h202, vinegar, bleach, boiling water etc.

 

[reefwars]

even if you use the flatworm exit it does noting to the eggs , neither does coral disinfectant , rodi or other dips . unfortunately if you cant remove them for 3 weeks of dips then manual removal is about all you have as a best weapon.<br><br>a coris wrasse or melanarus are my preferred fish for nudis . montiopora nudis are easier to get rid of then zoa nudis as montipora nudis are almost always on the colonies while during daylight hours zoa nudis hide out sometimes under polyps but also in rocks, under plugs etc.<br><br><br>on RC i wrote/posted a 3 week treatment that works perfectly but you would breed to be able to get the pieces out of the tank and into dips.<br><br><br>we have tried ( on a mad scientist level ) all kinds of ways to kill them off even if its not practical ....from bleach to acid<br><br>you would be surprised what the eggs survived including pure h202, vinegar, bleach, boiling water etc.

 

[joshporksandwich]

reefwars bring the article here where it matters RC zoa section is dead anyways lol.

 

[reefwars]

reefwars bring the article here where it matters RC zoa section is dead anyways lol.

I will actually I'll also update it as it was written about 2yrs ago and I have some new info to share

The zoa forum on RC really went downhill in the last couple years its a joke now that houses some resident know it Alls lol

Will post the article today in case anyone needs help with the nudes

 

[RKLion]

I dosed FWE in my mixed system which includes many high end acros and 6 clams and I had no casualties. I don't think there was too much toxin release due to low populations. I did a water change and carbon in a reactor which helps. Then after added a yellow coris and checkerboard.

 

[RKLion]

And I dosed 2.5 times manufacturers directions...

 

[TarHeelReefer22]

And I dosed 2.5 times manufacturers directions...

Thank you for your post this makes me feel much better! I might still add the meds I really am ready for them to be gone! Everything is doing so well in my tank aside from this problem! I might pull the trigger this week and will keep you guys updated. I have been manually removing them and feeding them to my sixline as encouragement to eat the ones he finds. He is currently enjoying them once suspended in the water column and hasn't missed one yet!

 

[RKLion]

Ya I was doing well and felt the same that I needed them gone to really thrive. When your dosing hit the tank with a powerhead to dislodge the pests also...