Ocean Revive T247 PAR Readings

sawdonkey · Feb 18, 2015

I borrowed my club's PAR meter and thought I'd post my results.

I'm really happy with the results. For lights, I'm running four Ocean Revive T247's. I have then going the long way front to back. I have two cross braces that really put a dent in my light. I also have bigger gaps between the outer fixtures than I do between the two center fixtures. This was so I could get the two center fixtures between two cross braces. I run my two outer fixtures at 90 blue / 75% white and the two middle fixtures at 85% blue / 70% white. Tank is 30" tall and 24" deep.

I'm getting about 660 PAR directly under the fixtures and just under the water. I got some pretty good readings on the sandbed, so it is no wonder my hyacinth birdsnest is thriving on the sand. I didn't learn a ton from this, but I did discover that some spots that I though might not get enough light to keep acros colored up, do in fact get plenty of light. Time for more acros!

The orange boxes at the top are where my fixtures are. The yellow boxes are where my cross braces are:

palmer · Feb 19, 2015

nice have, thanks for the info. just have mine for 2 weeks only @52% blue 31% white.

tigerdragon · Feb 19, 2015

How high above tank do you have your lights

sawdonkey · Feb 19, 2015

tigerdragon said:
How high above tank do you have your lights

About 10 inches or so.....

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1424373471.573905.jpg

hart24601 · Feb 19, 2015

Wow, about perfect numbers IMO! I wish mine were that good. How long is the tank?

sawdonkey · Feb 19, 2015

hart24601 said:
Wow, about perfect numbers IMO! I wish mine were that good. How long is the tank?

72" long. I got aefw last year and ended up killing all of my acro colonies in qt. I took the opportunity rescape and just started restocking acros last month.

aashley · Feb 22, 2015

I just bought these in advance of a new 96"x24"x17" glass tank I am having made for me. I am still debating whether to have a canopy made or to use the hanging kit. It seems to have an excellent fan but I was wondering if you have to use a chiller?

sawdonkey · Feb 24, 2015

I don't need a chiller as my tank is in my basement and my house is air conditioned. These lights are barely warm to the touch. However, when I open my canopy the air in there is slightly warmer than room temp.

I prefer the canopy look because I don't like equipment showing (including lights), but that is just personal preference.

aashley · Feb 25, 2015

Very helpful, thanks

miamiangler · Feb 25, 2015

Hi, sawdonkey

Whats your time s on and off with the lights ?

sawdonkey · Feb 25, 2015

miamiangler said:
Hi, sawdonkey

Whats your time s on and off with the lights ?

I should note that I swapped out a bunch of LEDs on these fixtures. I put four warm whites in each blue channel because I don't like the total blue look. I also swapped most cool whites with warm whites and removed the greens.

My white channel comes on at 2:15 and goes off at 10:45. My blues come on at 3:00 and go off at midnight.

palmer · Mar 13, 2015

6 weeks in with 2*t247 and I have ramped them up to 85% blue and 42% white- One more fixture is on the way to make it 3 units over a 6 feet 150 gal tank. I will see how 3 works out over a period of time, though I see some folks using 4 over similar 150/180 gal tanks.
Loving the look so far and have just disconnected the two 6' VHO I ran with the MH.
Corals have been growing nicely only 1 acan that's not responding well but moved it to the sand bed last night.
VERY Satisfied with look and growth. Only question in my mind is the longevity of the units

racin2438 · Mar 15, 2015

Very nice tank, and thanks for the PAR..reading stats...

Where are these available from....one place I checked was out of stock and maybe 2 to up to 4 weeks b4 back in stock.

Any suggestions? ????

Ed Chan · Jul 17, 2019

Thanks for your post.

I also have a similar set up with 4 t247’s set up over my 150 gallon tank that’s 29” high.

I’m new to the reef game (3 months in) and currently only have whites on at 30% on all 4 running for 7 hours.

I’m definitely going to add blues.

Just curious as to why you start and end your lighting cycles with blue? Did you start right away with 90/85 blue and 75/70 white or did you ramp up to that intensity? If you did, what intensity did you start at and how often and in what increments did you increase?

So glad I found this post!

Thanks!!

sawdonkey said:
I borrowed my club's PAR meter and thought I'd post my results.

I'm really happy with the results. For lights, I'm running four Ocean Revive T247's. I have then going the long way front to back. I have two cross braces that really put a dent in my light. I also have bigger gaps between the outer fixtures than I do between the two center fixtures. This was so I could get the two center fixtures between two cross braces. I run my two outer fixtures at 90 blue / 75% white and the two middle fixtures at 85% blue / 70% white. Tank is 30" tall and 24" deep.

I'm getting about 660 PAR directly under the fixtures and just under the water. I got some pretty good readings on the sandbed, so it is no wonder my hyacinth birdsnest is thriving on the sand. I didn't learn a ton from this, but I did discover that some spots that I though might not get enough light to keep acros colored up, do in fact get plenty of light. Time for more acros!

The orange boxes at the top are where my fixtures are. The yellow boxes are where my cross braces are:

sawdonkey · Jul 19, 2019

Ed Chan said:
Thanks for your post.

I also have a similar set up with 4 t247’s set up over my 150 gallon tank that’s 29” high.

I’m new to the reef game (3 months in) and currently only have whites on at 30% on all 4 running for 7 hours.

I’m definitely going to add blues.

Just curious as to why you start and end your lighting cycles with blue? Did you start right away with 90/85 blue and 75/70 white or did you ramp up to that intensity? If you did, what intensity did you start at and how often and in what increments did you increase?

So glad I found this post!

Thanks!!

I don’t have these lights anymore, but remember that I had put a few whites in each blue channel, so it wasn’t pure blue. I started and ended with blue to represent sunrise and sunset the best I could. Plus, late at night, I just like looking at the tank under blues.

Tailfisher · Jan 17, 2020

Hello, I know this is a really old post . I have a ocean revive over a frag tank that is 10"depth. Have blues on 30 and if I even turn white to 1 the par value goes way up. Lights are 18" above water. I would like to swap some of the whites out and just wanted your opinion of how hard it was and where did you get diodes to do it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Only reason I want to do this is zoas around edgesof tank dont like par level of 80+ but acros love it and could use some more. Thanks CJ

sawdonkey · Jan 19, 2020

Tailfisher said:
Hello, I know this is a really old post . I have a ocean revive over a frag tank that is 10"depth. Have blues on 30 and if I even turn white to 1 the par value goes way up. Lights are 18" above water. I would like to swap some of the whites out and just wanted your opinion of how hard it was and where did you get diodes to do it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Only reason I want to do this is zoas around edgesof tank dont like par level of 80+ but acros love it and could use some more. Thanks CJ

it’s pretty easy to swap diodes. You just need a cheap solder iron. You can get the diodes on eBay. Just search 3w LED royal blue.

Tailfisher · Jan 19, 2020

Awesome, I was told from rapid led that diodes had to be a direct match. How will I know which ones to buy. Is there a brand name or just any 3 watt diode. Which ones would you get rid of in light.

sawdonkey · Jan 19, 2020

Tailfisher said:
Awesome, I was told from rapid led that diodes had to be a direct match. How will I know which ones to buy. Is there a brand name or just any 3 watt diode. Which ones would you get rid of in light.

maybe, but I went with the “if it says 3W and looks the same, it’s good enough” method and never had an issue.