Octospawn dead or still saveable?

marsenis

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I got this octospawn about a week ago from the store. It was open at the store. Never really opened in my tank and seemingly got worse. All my other corals are fine (torch, and hammer as well) and that’s how I know it isn’t a parameter issue that I can tell. Is it dead or is it still worth a shot to give it time to recover? Don’t want to hurt my other LPS if it has a disease.

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I got this octospawn about a week ago from the store. It was open at the store. Never really opened in my tank and seemingly got worse. All my other corals are fine (torch, and hammer as well) and that’s how I know it isn’t a parameter issue that I can tell. Is it dead or is it still worth a shot to give it time to recover? Don’t want to hurt my other LPS if it has a disease.

3DA28C77-26A0-4C1D-A3DE-4F5796D20FB6.jpeg
I can still see some coral so try give it a while (Move it down it may be too much light at once causing this). IME hammers will show somethings wrong first (My frammer thrives no matter what it’s in at this point).
 
I can still see some coral so try give it a while (Move it down it may be too much light at once causing this). IME hammers will show somethings wrong first (My frammer thrives no matter what it’s in at this point).
I actually tried moving it down and it seemed to get to the worst point it had been. I’m running an AI prime on a Fluval 13.5 but yeah that was my go to at first but it seemingly hated that. I adjusted my flow as well to low-moderate. Hasn’t responded to that yet. This is how it was when it first entered the tank, so obviously a bit of regression.
 

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I actually tried moving it down and it seemed to get to the worst point it had been. I’m running an AI prime on a Fluval 13.5 but yeah that was my go to at first but it seemingly hated that. I adjusted my flow as well to low-moderate. Hasn’t responded to that yet. This is how it was when it first entered the tank, so obviously a bit of regression.
Maybe try it further up? I’m actually confused what is causing this, to me it isn’t an unwanted animal (You could try dipping again to double check then show a picture of what’s in the pot).
 
Maybe try it further up? I’m actually confused what is causing this, to me it isn’t an unwanted animal (You could try dipping again to double check then show a picture of what’s in the pot).
I did an iodine dip and nothing really seemed to fall out at all. It didn’t really affect the coral in any way either. The only thing in my tank right now that could effect it are copepods but I’d highly doubt that. Would there be benefit to dipping again? Moving it further up is something I’ve considered though. Very odd in my opinion.
 
Is it a wall variety or branching? I had a wall frogspawn and it didn't last very long compared to my other branching euphyllia
 
Is it a wall variety or branching? I had a wall frogspawn and it didn't last very long compared to my other branching euphyllia
I’ll be honest with you, I’m not sure. At the LFS (which is very reputable btw) it was listed as an octospawn. I’d assume branching, but yeah sadly I’m not to sure :(
 
I will say since it has tissue in the center it could possibly recover. I haven't had that luck in the past but you never know with coral.
 
I will say since it has tissue in the center it could possibly recover. I haven't had that luck in the past but you never know with coral.
Okay. I’ll leave it be for now. Checkup on it. Hopefully everything works out! Thank you
 
Really can's see much with the blue lights. Post a photo under white lights if you can. As long as there is tissue there and it's not all brown and slimy there is hope. I looked up your other thread you posted parameters in. Your parameters are a little off. What salinity are you running and what are you measuring it with? Sometimes when Alk, Ca, Mg are all low it could be salinity is low also. You also didn't mention what your settings are on your AI Prime. How close to the tank and what intensity?

Parameters:
Ph - 8.2
Alkalinity - 7.5
Nitrate - 7.5
Phosphate - 0.02
Calcium - 380
Magnesium - 1140
 
Really can's see much with the blue lights. Post a photo under white lights if you can. As long as there is tissue there and it's not all brown and slimy there is hope. I looked up your other thread you posted parameters in. Your parameters are a little off. What salinity are you running and what are you measuring it with? Sometimes when Alk, Ca, Mg are all low it could be salinity is low also. You also didn't mention what your settings are on your AI Prime. How close to the tank and what intensity?

Parameters:
Ph - 8.2
Alkalinity - 7.5
Nitrate - 7.5
Phosphate - 0.02
Calcium - 380
Magnesium - 1140
Hey Shirak, yeah I can definently get another pic tmor of it under whiter light. There is definently still tissue, and no browning, it is just very retracted. My calcium and magnesium are a bit low admitingly, but would it cause this much of a issue for the octospawn when the other lps are looking good? As for salinity, it’s 1.025 and I measure with a Red Sea refractometer. As far as the light, I attached a picture of the settings but mainly it is just Saxbys settings tuned down a bit. It’s about 9-10 inch above the tank. I was thinking about potentially dosing mag and calc, but did not know if that would do more harm than good considering the fragile state the coral seems to be in. Thoughts? And thank you btw
 

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This is a recent addition? parameters could be an issue if they are noticeably different from where it was housed previously. How are you calibrating the refractometer? Is there a LFS that uses decent testers you can take a sample to for a double check on Alk/Ca/Mg and Salinity?

The light setup is fine. 9-10" for the prime is a little close as it tends to be a bit more focused than some lights so will be pretty strong more towards under the light. Looks like you are running it pretty high power too during the peak. This could be an issue also if it was under different lighting and intensity for a while where it was housed previously. Generally speaking better to start new additions on the dim side to see how they do. Does it extend at all during the day/night when the lights are not at peak?
 
This is a recent addition? parameters could be an issue if they are noticeably different from where it was housed previously. How are you calibrating the refractometer? Is there a LFS that uses decent testers you can take a sample to for a double check on Alk/Ca/Mg and Salinity?

The light setup is fine. 9-10" for the prime is a little close as it tends to be a bit more focused than some lights so will be pretty strong more towards under the light. Looks like you are running it pretty high power too during the peak. This could be an issue also if it was under different lighting and intensity for a while where it was housed previously. Generally speaking better to start new additions on the dim side to see how they do. Does it extend at all during the day/night when the lights are not at peak?
This is a somewhat recent addition. Around1-2 weeks ago I got it. It is true the parameters could be different, but I drip acclimated them, hoping to atleast have some acclimation. I calibrate the refracto with RODI water. Unfortunately the LFS that I trust is an hour away so not sure when I could get over there. I do use Hanna for alk and salifert for calc and mag, so should be pretty accurate.

as per the light, I agree it is somewhat strong, but the octospawn in question has been placed in three spots with very little difference (direct light, indirect light in the middle, and low light at bottom). Honestly though, the lights at the LFS are radios x30’s so I’d assume they are pretty bright. It used to extend partially both and night and the morning occasionally, but recently no luck.
 
This is a recent addition? parameters could be an issue if they are noticeably different from where it was housed previously. How are you calibrating the refractometer? Is there a LFS that uses decent testers you can take a sample to for a double check on Alk/Ca/Mg and Salinity?

The light setup is fine. 9-10" for the prime is a little close as it tends to be a bit more focused than some lights so will be pretty strong more towards under the light. Looks like you are running it pretty high power too during the peak. This could be an issue also if it was under different lighting and intensity for a while where it was housed previously. Generally speaking better to start new additions on the dim side to see how they do. Does it extend at all during the day/night when the lights are not at peak?
I do have amphipods as well In tank. Do you think those could bother it? I attached a vid
 

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hmm ok so yes 1-2 weeks is very new for a coral to acclimate, especially if there is a big change. Extending at night and when lights are ramping up and down while tightly contracted during peak says way too bright from it's previous home to me. Drip acclimating corals does nothing for them and not necessary. Temperature acclimate for 10-15min and dip if you desire then in they go.

I would make some of Randy's homemade refractometer calibration solution. RODI will often incorrectly calibrate a refractometer designed for brine solutions, which is what most of us use.
Scroll down to the refractometer standard with table salt:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-06/rhf/index.htm
 
Probably not the Amphipods unless there is some dying tissue around the polyp they are after?
Not sure if anyone mentioned .02ppm PO4 is low what are you using to test phosphate? I would be looking to bump that up. Probably not causing the issue you are currently having though.
 
Probably not the Amphipods unless there is some dying tissue around the polyp they are after?
Not sure if anyone mentioned .02ppm PO4 is low what are you using to test phosphate? I would be looking to bump that up. Probably not causing the issue you are currently having though.
Ok, I will lower my lights gradually, hope for it too improve. Definently have to look into that solution as well I didn’t know RODI wasn’t sufficient. Doesn’t seem like there is dying tissue, but just wanted to double check on them. As for the phosphates, it’s up to around 0.08-0.01. Prior to that post, I was feeding 1 time per week and it was just draining the phosphates so I started feeding corals twice and now seems much better levels of PO4. Thanks again for your help, hopefully after reducing the lights and continuing stability, I’ll have some good news!
 
Ok, I will lower my lights gradually, hope for it too improve. Definently have to look into that solution as well I didn’t know RODI wasn’t sufficient. Doesn’t seem like there is dying tissue, but just wanted to double check on them. As for the phosphates, it’s up to around 0.08-0.01. Prior to that post, I was feeding 1 time per week and it was just draining the phosphates so I started feeding corals twice and now seems much better levels of PO4. Thanks again for your help, hopefully after reducing the lights and continuing stability, I’ll have some good news!
I wouldn't necessarily lower the lights. If the other corals are all doing well then better to move the one coral. I would go down to the bottom of the tank and off to the side and give it at least a few days to see if it starts extending during the day. Changing the lights will force your other corals to adjust. Full tank shot tomorrow might help too.
 

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