One overflow output into two?

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Sorry if the title is cofusing, but I am looking to turn a one output external overflow into two different sections allowing a protein skimmer section and a refugium section, with the pump in the middle. Basically I am trying to allow water flow into the refugium and protein skimmer and meeting in the middle at the pump section. Can I just seperate the drain valve into two outputs?
 
just put a T in the line and plumb it to the two sections at that point.
Great thanks. Can I install some sort of ball valve or gate Valve or whatever on the output of the overflow itself? To turn off incase it need be? I'm thinking it would just shut off circulation and with the return pump off it will be fine..
 
IMO the return pipe should have a T with a gate valve that you feed the fuge with. Leave your drain the way it is.
I say this because there's not a good way to T off your drain and control flow with out risking some sort of clog. So keep the drain simple and T off return pump.
Gate valves cost more but will give you better control of flow.
 
IMO the return pipe should have a T with a gate valve that you feed the fuge with. Leave your drain the way it is.
I say this because there's not a good way to T off your drain and control flow with out risking some sort of clog. So keep the drain simple and T off return pump.
Gate valves cost more but will give you better control of flow.
Is there a way I can still set up my sump to receive water from two locations? Should I try to figure out some sort of system that water flows up and down a pipe in a section and back out? This is a horrible explanation but some people have refugiums fully blocked in with just some sort of pipe, right? Could I possibly run my refugium off the return pipe? I'm looking at an L1 to give me plenty of head pressure. Not sure.
 
You can do it but it will take some experimentation. I'm all for putting a valve on a drain line for on/off but not for regulating flow because you will get build up and it will constantly change the flow rate.

Take this all with a grain of salt - was in a car accident 4-1/2 months ago and got 2 concussions and am still having post concussion syndrome.

Say your drain line is 1". Run 1" down, and tee off at 1". Then put (2) 1" 22.5 elbows in and run the rest of the way to your fuge. One elbow goes up and the other goes down so it creates a little "hill" and then a straight run. On the other side, reduce down to 1/2" or even 1/4" (you'll need to experiment to see what balances the flow) and run that to your skimmer.

The purpose of the 22.5 is to keep everything from going to the fuge. The purpose of the reduction on the other side is to build up enough back pressure that some water still gets pushed to the 'fuge.

I'll sketch it in AutoCAD in a minute to try and make it clearer.
 
Unless you have two drains from your tank the best safest and easiest way to do this is T off feed line. An L1 should have plenty will not need much flow to fuge
 
This isn't my pic but stole it from google perfect example how to do this properly. I would use gate valve though since can dial in easier.

IMG_2204.JPG
 
I dissagre with everyone u can t off ur drain look at melvsreef he has done it.
Plus u only want a small trickle thru the fuge anyway.
Use the return pump as the return pump. Put a ball valve on the pipe going to the fuge to control the water flow and call it a day.
Ps u still should get an l1
 
You can do it but it will take some experimentation. I'm all for putting a valve on a drain line for on/off but not for regulating flow because you will get build up and it will constantly change the flow rate.

Take this all with a grain of salt - was in a car accident 4-1/2 months ago and got 2 concussions and am still having post concussion syndrome.

Say your drain line is 1". Run 1" down, and tee off at 1". Then put (2) 1" 22.5 elbows in and run the rest of the way to your fuge. One elbow goes up and the other goes down so it creates a little "hill" and then a straight run. On the other side, reduce down to 1/2" or even 1/4" (you'll need to experiment to see what balances the flow) and run that to your skimmer.

The purpose of the 22.5 is to keep everything from going to the fuge. The purpose of the reduction on the other side is to build up enough back pressure that some water still gets pushed to the 'fuge.

I'll sketch it in AutoCAD in a minute to try and make it clearer.
Hope you get well Steve! Thanks again!
 
Unless you have two drains from your tank the best safest and easiest way to do this is T off feed line. An L1 should have plenty will not need much flow to fuge
By T off feed line, do you mean the return pump itself? It's possible I was thinking of building a manifold.
 
Thanks. If you would do it like the photo above with valves, just be sure to use tru-union valves so you can take them apart and clean them occasionally.
 
By T off feed line, do you mean the return pump itself? It's possible I was thinking of building a manifold.

Yes a manifold would work and you can feed other reactors too. Imo this is the best safest way to get what you want.
 
So
Yes a manifold would work and you can feed other reactors too. Imo this is the best safest way to get what you want.
sounds simple enough. Was looking at a manifold with around 4 ports with a quick connect to do water changes. Is there a way to stop water from flowing into the sump? Or is that a bad idea itself?
 
sounds simple enough. Was looking at a manifold with around 4 ports with a quick connect to do water changes. Is there a way to stop water from flowing into the sump? Or is that a bad idea itself?

Ha, click my user name and see a thread I have lots of comments on this. I don't under stand the need to stop the water. Your sump needs to hold the water in a power outage.
the easy way to stop the water flow is turn the pump off. ;)
 

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