Opening the floodgates again: is API good for testing parameters?

[Nano_Man]

 

[Garf]

I’ve used almost every API Test kit, and the only one I’ve had a problem with was the Copper Test, just doesn’t indicate close enough to the Therapeutic Level for Copper Power. On some of the Thinner Reagents, you have to be careful that the first drop, is not too small, when it comes out while tipping the bottle. BTW, someone had a different method, on a different board, for the Copper Test. You used twice the water and twice the reagent, in some another brand kits vial. According to the post, it was spot On.

I wonder if you could even run the copper API through a Hanna meter with the appropriate calibration slope. I didn’t know API did a copper test tbh.

 

[PapaFishRocks]

Hanna and salifert. I do have a new test kit which is the Hanna master kit

Me: That Hanna Master kit is too much $$$

Also Me: Hey, let me spend more $ than the Master Kit on all the individual Hanna checkers.

‍

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

That’s the biggest issue I’ve had. It would consistently read at 0.25ppm when there was no ammonia in my tank, otherwise my critters would be suffering if there was that much ammonia in the tank.

This is because API measures total ammonia, not just free ammonia

 

[KQuillan]

No matter how many times I calibrate my Apex, it never matches my Salifert readings.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Me: That Hanna Master kit is too much $$$

Also Me: Hey, let me spend more $ than the Master Kit on all the individual Hanna checkers.

‍

When you have $10k or more in fish and coral - its not too much to have a clue whats happening in your tank. Same is said for ICP tests which are $40 but some say its too much and start losing coral and go get one. Its a choice each individual makes
I will not use a $7 badge or $30 master test kit to sustain over $5k in fish

 

[Mateusz]

This reminds me that I’ve run out of Hanna phos reagents, I’ve been using API reagents in my checker. Cheers, I’ll need some in a few years when the API bottles run out, so I can recalibrate, lol.

which phos kit does this work with and what do you do? Intersted if it actually works lol

 

[PapaFishRocks]

When you have $10k or more in fish and coral - its not too much to have a clue whats happening in your tank. Same is said for ICP tests which are $40 but some say its too much and start losing coral and go get one. Its a choice each individual makes
I will not use a $7 badge or $30 master test kit to sustain over $5k in fish

Absolutely true! Can’t manage it, if you can’t measure it. And nothing is worse than incorrect data.

I’ll admit to owning an API kit.
But I’ve been gathering up Hanna checkers.
Copper for my QT
Alk
Phosphate
Nitrate

Which one should I get next? Calcium? Mag?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Absolutely true! Can’t manage it, if you can’t measure it. And nothing is worse than incorrect data.

I’ll admit to owning an API kit.
But I’ve been gathering up Hanna checkers.
Copper for my QT
Alk
Phosphate
Nitrate

Which one should I get next? Calcium? Mag?

Calcium

 

[marinesnow]

API is for noobs. Next question.

 

[Dburr1014]

I’ve used almost every API Test kit, and the only one I’ve had a problem with was the Copper Test, just doesn’t indicate close enough to the Therapeutic Level for Copper Power. On some of the Thinner Reagents, you have to be careful that the first drop, is not too small, when it comes out while tipping the bottle. BTW, someone had a different method, on a different board, for the Copper Test. You used twice the water and twice the reagent, in some another brand kits vial. According to the post, it was spot On.

The first drop should always be a sacrifical drop in a paper towel. Then slide over the vial already at 180.

I always thought of API as getting trends but not a hard number.
If you can do the tests exactly the same every time and read color you can have a successful reef tank.

 

[fishkat]

I’ve seen several discussions on here and other forums about the API Saltwater Master Test Kit being inaccurate, unreliable, and overall a money hemorrhage because of the livestock lost due to inaccurate readings. However, I’ve also seen people defend API by saying those people just don’t do the instructions right, or can’t distinguish the colors right.

I have had my 15 gal since January, so I’ve been in this hobby for about 5 months. As a beginner, is API good for me? Or would it be better to upgrade since I hardly have any coralline algae right now? (I have mostly green film currently)

I've been in the hobby for about forty years now and find API is the easiest test kit to use. You MUST follow the directions closely paying attention to how the drops are dispensed and the best way to read the color is to hold the test tube angled about a 1/4 in off the white background being careful to avoid shadowing effect from the light source. I have easy soft corals as they are more tolerant than hard corals within the error of API. As you become more adept and want to keep the hard corals which demand tests with less margin of error then Salifert is better if you are comfortable mixing reagents. A high school or college experience in chemistry 101 would be a great help as well as with dealing with the Hanna colorimetry method (the test vials and control vial must be spotless).
Remember not to overfeed the fish as Its the main cause of parameter failure due to the build up of waste products and the inevitable algae and bacterial bloom.
good luck

 

[Dansters]

I’ve seen several discussions on here and other forums about the API Saltwater Master Test Kit being inaccurate, unreliable, and overall a money hemorrhage because of the livestock lost due to inaccurate readings. However, I’ve also seen people defend API by saying those people just don’t do the instructions right, or can’t distinguish the colors right.

I have had my 15 gal since January, so I’ve been in this hobby for about 5 months. As a beginner, is API good for me? Or would it be better to upgrade since I hardly have any coralline algae right now? (I have mostly green film currently)

Only problem I have with them is the ammonia because it constantly reads .25 so I just know if it’s higher than that then it’s a problem.

 

[See Gee Sea]

API is okay with the exception of phosphates. The test kit doesn't register anything below .25PPM so while you think you're doing everything right but can't keep any corals alive it's because you're either at or above .1PPM which of course isn't good for most corals.