Opinion on API tests

SubParReefer

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Hi all,
I’ve had a Seneye reef set up since the day I set the tank up but I’ve always been wary about the free ammonia reading (always 0.001 Nh3)

I bought an API test kit and have just mixed up some tests for total Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate.

What do you you all think of the results? I feel it is:

0.5ppm total ammonia
Roughly 0.3ppm Nitrite
5ppm Nitrate

This is my first test, I’ve been relying on Seneye readings for previous water monitoring.
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You need to put them against the white on the card in high light. I do it by my north facing door wall. I only use the nitrate kit for general gauge of where it's at every couple weeks.

Having them stand there with the card in front won't be as accurate as putting it against it in the white space, while not terribly accurate to begin with your numbers are going to change unfortunately.
 
after tank cycles, I'd highly recommend getting different test kits that are more precise/easier. I started in hobby using API but quickly found them messy and hard to decipher readings like you just experienced. After trying Redsea, Salifert & Hanna, I prefer Hanna for precision and ease.
 
Red Sea, Salifert and Hanna seem to be the most popular. Salifert is usually the most inexpensive of the three. People like Hanna because its digital readout gives the notion that its tests are the most objective and accurate. For alkalinity, I find that the three tests above have pretty comparable reliability. The other two tests, Salifert and Red Sea require either color matching or determining a colorimetric end point of titration. Both of these procedures require interpretation.

That being said, it is a good idea to watch a you tube video showing a test being done before purchasing. You might find the test procedure not to your liking or your color discrimination too challenged by that test.

As an aside, the Hanna ULR phosphate and phosphorous tests are the only hobby grade test with enough sensitivity to be of much use.
 
I bought and used my API just for the cycle. The Nitrite one is accurate enough to see when it's 0 or not IMO. Even then you can always wait a few extra days after it shows 0 with no harm.

I agree to move on to a better nitrate test in the future. You shouldn't really need the ammonia or nitrite test after you're done cycling anyways. API tests can serve a purpose though, they're very useful for being a cheap cycle tester if you want to do it yourself.


EDIT: IMO just watch the Nitrite test for 0. Since you know you have ammonia and nitrite you're already in the cycling process.
 
Red Sea, Salifert and Hanna seem to be the most popular. Salifert is usually the most inexpensive of the three. People like Hanna because its digital readout gives the notion that its tests are the most objective and accurate. For alkalinity, I find that the three tests above have pretty comparable reliability. The other two tests, Salifert and Red Sea require either color matching or determining a colorimetric end point of titration. Both of these procedures require interpretation.

That being said, it is a good idea to watch a you tube video showing a test being done before purchasing. You might find the test procedure not to your liking or your color discrimination too challenged by that test.

As an aside, the Hanna ULR phosphate and phosphorous tests are the only hobby grade test with enough sensitivity to be of much use.
As a former chemist, this is the best description of the various reef test kits that I've seen yet. Well done, @PatW!

The reason Hanna kits are so popular is simply because the digital readout gives users comfort (the "notion" of objectivity and accuracy). This does NOT mean they are more accurate than other quality test kits, just that they require less interpretation by the user.

Personally, I find Salifert test kits to be a perfect blend of affordability and accuracy.
 
Thanks for your input everyone! I have a Salifert KH test and find the drip (titration?) method quite good.

I think I will move away from API, see a lot of mixed reviews about them. I have a Seneye reef but wasn’t sure if the device was reading correctly, hence the API kit purchase which has only made things more confusing!

I unfortunately took some YouTube advice as gospel and put a clown into the tank after dumping in a bottle of ATM Colony, thinking the bacteria would prevent a cycle but it appears I’m in the middle of it. I’m just hoping the nutrients don’t go any higher than this and drop also so the lil guy doesn’t suffer too much during this process.

Lesson learned: gather multiple sources of information before diving into anything in this hobby!
 

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