OK, this is very basic...and I'm not the best free-hand artist via computer and I haven't had time to sit down and figure out my CAD program, but you'll get the idea.
I want to cut down a 12 gallon Eclipse acrylic aquarium. From the left side I will drill a hole, add a small bulkhead and hook up a Maxijet to take water directly out of my aquarium and pump it in at the upper lever of the tank.
On the right front I will drill a hole, add a small bulk head and put in a very basic overflow that will drain into a T back into the tank.
The height will be 8 inches...the tank will rest on 3 sides of my 65 gallon tank...
A piece of eggcrate supported on a PVC base will hold the frag plugs.
There is no possibility of flooding because as soon as the power quits, the powerhead will stop...nothing to back siphon. The standpipe will assure the water stays over the top of the corals. A small powerhead will supply additional cross flow.
I have the rim with the cross base for the top...since the tank is straight up and down that piece can be replaced to support the top of the tank. It will get indirect lighting via T-5's and 150 watt MH lighting. All other needs will be taken care of via direct contact with my main display.
My biggest worry, cutting the tank as it has a bowfront. I'm thinking of using my Rotozip with a plastic/ laminate cutting bit on a slow speed. Draw a line, take my time and cut.
Is there some fatal flaw here I'm not seeing with this idea? If you see one or think of something I haven't, please LMK. Thanks for looking.
I want to cut down a 12 gallon Eclipse acrylic aquarium. From the left side I will drill a hole, add a small bulkhead and hook up a Maxijet to take water directly out of my aquarium and pump it in at the upper lever of the tank.
On the right front I will drill a hole, add a small bulk head and put in a very basic overflow that will drain into a T back into the tank.
The height will be 8 inches...the tank will rest on 3 sides of my 65 gallon tank...
A piece of eggcrate supported on a PVC base will hold the frag plugs.
There is no possibility of flooding because as soon as the power quits, the powerhead will stop...nothing to back siphon. The standpipe will assure the water stays over the top of the corals. A small powerhead will supply additional cross flow.
I have the rim with the cross base for the top...since the tank is straight up and down that piece can be replaced to support the top of the tank. It will get indirect lighting via T-5's and 150 watt MH lighting. All other needs will be taken care of via direct contact with my main display.
My biggest worry, cutting the tank as it has a bowfront. I'm thinking of using my Rotozip with a plastic/ laminate cutting bit on a slow speed. Draw a line, take my time and cut.
Is there some fatal flaw here I'm not seeing with this idea? If you see one or think of something I haven't, please LMK. Thanks for looking.



