Optimal phosphate level? (Mixed Reef)

[WisconsinReefing]

This is probably my favorite coral. I’m trying not to chase numbers but I read all these horror stories. But from what I understand this is a moderately picky coral, shown the day I put him in to now (about a month) so seeing that gives me some confidence.

Pectinia? It definitely is looking thicker! Your nutrient levels are better than 99% of reefers on here, don't change anything.
[/QUOTE]

Yes. Space invader! And thanks once more. You’ve made my night!!

 

[living_tribunal]

I’m concerned that the phosphate is steadily increasing with no real changes to what I’m doing.

Did you start with dry rock?

 

[WisconsinReefing]

Did you start with dry rock?

No, live rock from my LFS

 

[living_tribunal]

No, live rock from my LFS

I was going to say, dry rock will bind phosphates in the beginning. It can soak up a TON of it at that. As the rock becomes bound it will buffer your phosphate levels. Your rock may potentially have bound the phosphates initially and then steadily became saturated.

 

[WisconsinReefing]

I was going to say, dry rock will bind phosphates in the beginning. It can soak up a TON of it at that. As the rock becomes bound it will buffer your phosphate levels. Your rock may potentially have bound the phosphates initially and then steadily became saturated.

Do you think what is up there is possible? About reef roids increasing it? I find it a bit hard to believe it could be that. It’s such a tiny amount 2x per week

 

[living_tribunal]

Do you think what is up there is possible? About reef roids increasing it? I find it a bit hard to believe it could be that. It’s such a tiny amount 2x per week

It could depending on how much you use and your tank size. Have you added any fish, inverts, or corals recently? Any change to your fuge photoperiod as well? There are a number of things that could cause that.

It takes a while before your parameters can stabilize. I had an issue when I first started out with dry rock absorbing ALL of my phosphates. I would dose .03ppm phosphates every hour and still have a 0 reading the next day.

Then the rock leached some and now I finally have a consistent protocol for maintaining very tight phosphate levels.

Things change in your tank that you can't see and you just have to continually tweak things until you get it running consistently.

Get yourself a good phosphate test kit, the hanna phosphate kit is worth the investment. I test phosphates everyday just about. Make small changes, measure, repeat and you will find things where you want them. You also have to listen to your reef to.

Finding reef balance is like a game of tetherball. In the beginning of the match, every time you hit the ball it will go wildly in various directions. The tetherball returned by the opponent will also be quite violent yet slightly less every single time the ball makes a wrap around the pole.

Towards the end of the match, you have a significantly better idea of where the ball will land and where it will go once you hit it again.

Then you finally win and the games over with you finding the perfect balance of where you and the tank wanted to land.

 

[WisconsinReefing]

It could depending on how much you use and your tank size. Have you added any fish, inverts, or corals recently? Any change to your fuge photoperiod as well? There are a number of things that could cause that.

It takes a while before your parameters can stabilize. I had an issue when I first started out with dry rock absorbing ALL of my phosphates. I would dose .03ppm phosphates every hour and still have a 0 reading the next day.

Then the rock leached some and now I finally have a consistent protocol for maintaining very tight phosphate levels.

Things change in your tank that you can't see and you just have to continually tweak things until you get it running consistently.

Get yourself a good phosphate test kit, the hanna phosphate kit is worth the investment. I test phosphates everyday just about. Make small changes, measure, repeat and you will find things where you want them. You also have to listen to your reef to.

Finding reef balance is like a game of tetherball. In the beginning of the match, every time you hit the ball it will go wildly in various directions. The tetherball returned by the opponent will also be quite violent yet slightly less every single time the ball makes a wrap around the pole.

Towards the end of the match, you have a significantly better idea of where the ball will land and where it will go once you hit it again.

Then you finally win and the games over with you finding the perfect balance of where you and the tank wanted to land.

Fantastic analogy with the tetherball

I’m using all Hanna testing. The only thing I hate is how those that have the powder regents the little square packets are so hard to use. Hard not to spill. Surprised they can’t find a better way.

 

[pecan2phat]

Are you cutting the reagent packs along the dotted line (2 sides) then pulling the pack open so that the curved cut corner is the pouring edge?
Hardly spill any powder this way!

 

[WisconsinReefing]

Are you cutting the reagent packs along the dotted line (2 sides) then pulling the pack open so that the curved cut corner is the pouring edge?
Hardly spill any powder this way!

I have not tried pouring from the cut corner. I will try that next time!

 

[pecan2phat]

Cut along the dotted line so that the cut corner is curved.

 

[MichaelReefer]

What should a good phosphate level be for a mixed reef be (SPS,LPS,&softies)? My phosphate levels were around a 0.15ppm and I was told that was to low so I brought it up to a 0.30ppm but I think that’s to high. What should it be around?

I've seen multiple places that a reef tank should be under .20, .15 to .17 is optimal. And they tend to be higher than a normal fish only tank.

 

[MichaelReefer]

Oh that could do it. They recommend you feed like 3-4 times a month the recommended amount of reed roids.

Says who? I Know plenty of people, including myself that does Reef Roids spot feeding twice a week.

 

[ReefReadyYouTube]

Says who? I Know plenty of people, including myself that does Reef Roids spot feeding twice a week.

It all really depends on the export system. But to much will with out a doubt raise the phosphate.

 

[living_tribunal]

Fantastic analogy with the tetherball

I’m using all Hanna testing. The only thing I hate is how those that have the powder regents the little square packets are so hard to use. Hard not to spill. Surprised they can’t find a better way.

You need to setup the test ahead of time. I typically use the stop watch on my phone and cut the packet open ahead of time. If you crease one edge and then tap the powder off the sides then it all comes out instantly.

 

[living_tribunal]

Says who? I Know plenty of people, including myself that does Reef Roids spot feeding twice a week.

I feed my corals religiously. I run an lps tank with a bunch of very large brain corals that require every other day feeding. All people need is to run their photoperiod a little longer in these scenarios.

I have primarily switched to pellets away from roids and they do increase nutrients a tad more. If people are getting algae from feeding them they’re not accounting for it with their photo period or other export.

I swear people just don’t use their noggins sometimes.

 

[MichaelReefer]

I feed my corals religiously. I run an lps tank with a bunch of very large brain corals that require every other day feeding. All people need is to run their photoperiod a little longer in these scenarios.

I have primarily switched to pellets away from roids and they do increase nutrients a tad more. If people are getting algae from feeding them they’re not accounting for it with their photo period or other export.

I swear people just don’t use their noggins sometimes.

Same, I am an LPS guy. I have two large torches, and four Hammers. Not to Mention two enormous anenomes, and three smaller ones. I target feed Reef Roids at least 2-3 times a week. Not to mention adding supplements once a week. My light period is 11am to 10pm, I have very little algae problems (Light dust on the glass) and my Phosphate is anywhere from .15 to .17 at all times.

 

[living_tribunal]

Same, I am an LPS guy. I have two large torches, and four Hammers. Not to Mention two enormous anenomes, and three smaller ones. I target feed Reef Roids at least 2-3 times a week. Not to mention adding supplements once a week. My light period is 11am to 10pm, I have very little algae problems (Light dust on the glass) and my Phosphate is anywhere from .15 to .17 at all times.

I run a low nitrate high phosphate setup in correlation to the research I posted above. It works very well, no algae and tons of phosphate for the corals.

My lps tend to get mad when I feed reef roids as they are much too large to consume it. I feed anything that will accept it a sadistic amount of 1mm pellets and they have grown faster than I’ve ever seen.

My wilsoni, lobo, scoly, trachys, bowerbankis, etc are like “why are you putting this tiny crap in my mouth?”

I sometimes drop 20 pellets onto my favias, the little guys will eat the whole thing and get crazy fat.

 

[ReefGeezer]

"Optimal" might be the key word. By definition, it means best possible outcome under a given set of circumstances. Optimal for a new system is not the same as optimal for a mature system.

A new system with a .1 ppm of phosphate and a few ppm of nitrate would likely create algae factory and slow growth of some corals. If all things were equal, the same system could operate well at 2 ppm of phosphate and 10-20 ppm of nitrate if it was very mature. Growth might still be slowed. If the corals are already grown out, slow growth might be desirable.

 

[living_tribunal]

I feel like I need to post this newer phosphate/nitrate research coming out in the main forum or something. Phosphates are criminally misunderstood by the reefing community.

I am of the belief that 50% of coral issues on the site stem from phosphate deficiency.

 

[ReefGeezer]

I run a low nitrate high phosphate setup in correlation to the research I posted above. It works very well, no algae and tons of phosphate for the corals.

Interesting. How old is your tank?