Optimum RODI Filter Sizes

[BradVol]

I wasn't sure whether to put this in hardware or chemistry but I think it's more related here. I need to replace my RODI filters. I have a 10 micron sediment, 5 micron carbon block, and 1 micron carbon block in a 5 stage RO/DI setup. But I see some reefing places sell replacement kits where all 3 filters are 1 micron. What would the better option be?

My tap water is 65 in TDS. The water is sourced from a combo of several wells and a river. I'm waiting to hear back whether they use chlorine or chloramines and would probably spend the extra $9 to get the carbon blocks with the catalyst if they say there may be chloramines in the water. I know Randy said most setups will remove low amounts of chloramine, but I've been struggling with hair algae and if there's a chance it could help I'm willing to try.

I've also not replaced my RO membrane in 2 years. I'm still getting 0 TDS in my water and the production rate is fine. Is there any other reason I should replace it now?

 

[Justdrew]

Membranes last a long time. Most say at least 5 years. My last one went 8 years before the rejection rate dropped to an unsatisfactory level.

 

[Kazumi]

I have all 3 of mine at 5 micron, but when I need to change them I am going to go to 1 micron ones for all 3, but I do have a 5 micron whole house filter that the water goes through first.

 

[Mike konesky]

1 micron sediment, .2 sediment, .5 carbon blocks. Get the best ones in your price range.

 

[Woodyman]

Currently mine is setup 0.35 micron sediment > 1 micron carbon > 0.5 micron carbon

Previously I had 2 sediments 1 micron followed by 0.35. trying out skipping the 1 micron and so far so good.

 

[Woodyman]

I wasn't sure whether to put this in hardware or chemistry but I think it's more related here. I need to replace my RODI filters. I have a 10 micron sediment, 5 micron carbon block, and 1 micron carbon block in a 5 stage RO/DI setup. But I see some reefing places sell replacement kits where all 3 filters are 1 micron. What would the better option be?

My tap water is 65 in TDS. The water is sourced from a combo of several wells and a river. I'm waiting to hear back whether they use chlorine or chloramines and would probably spend the extra $9 to get the carbon blocks with the catalyst if they say there may be chloramines in the water. I know Randy said most setups will remove low amounts of chloramine, but I've been struggling with hair algae and if there's a chance it could help I'm willing to try.

I've also not replaced my RO membrane in 2 years. I'm still getting 0 TDS in my water and the production rate is fine. Is there any other reason I should replace it now?

The only thing I'd recommend changing is your sediment. Keep carbon as is.

The sediment should be rated lower or equal to your carbon block rating. The reason being you don't want sediment clogging up your carbon. Keeping lower before the carbon means you won't get clogs in the carbon getting more of it's useful life out of it.

 

[KStatefan]

0.2 micron sediment- 1 micron carbon- 0.5 micron carbon

 

[BradVol]

0.2 micron sediment- 1 micron carbon- 0.5 micron carbon

Are you guys changing out the sediment filter more often than the carbon in this configuration?

 

[Woodyman]

Are you guys changing out the sediment filter more often than the carbon in this configuration?

Yes, my carbon blocks last 6+ months. Sediment is right around 2-4

 

[BradVol]

Yes, my carbon blocks last 6+ months. Sediment is right around 2-4

How do you tell when the carbon blocks are done?

 

[Woodyman]

How do you tell when the carbon blocks are done?

For carbon blocks you should be checking when you get chlorine bleed through.

 

[Woodyman]

Grab a simple chlorine/chloramine test kit/strip

RO/DI Basic Guide

There are always a lot of questions regarding which RO/DI setup do I need, how many stages, how do I know when to change filters/membranes, I’m getting a weird TDS value, etc. Hopefully this clarifies a few things and helps some of you out one day. My first recommendation would be to find the...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[KStatefan]

Are you guys changing out the sediment filter more often than the carbon in this configuration?

I do not. Carbon 1 every 2000 gallons carbon 2 4000 gallons Sediment has never needed to be replaced but I also have a whole hosuse filter where the water comes into the house.

 

[Woodyman]

I always say I'm going to add in a whole house. I've got the extra canisters. But I never do....

 

[Woodyman]

I do not. Carbon 1 every 2000 gallons carbon 2 4000 gallons Sediment has never needed to be replaced but I also have a whole hosuse filter where the water comes into the house.

I'll take the higher sediment to your CO2 problem!

 

[LeftyReefer]

Yes, my carbon blocks last 6+ months. Sediment is right around 2-4

Holy crap. What is your incoming TDS?

I'm going on 8+ months with my current set of filters and haven't noticed any pressure drop or TDS coming through yet.... I'm on my original set of filters from when I installed my RO/DI at the beginning of august. I started off with a 4 stage, but added 5th stage a few months ago, adding a second carbon block. the other filters are still the original ones.

Is a pressure drop the only way to tell when a sediment filter needs changing? Mine has started to discolor a tiny bit, but other than that, seems fine still.. no pressure drop though, so I'm assuming it isn't clogged. I also bought a chlorine test strip kit for testing my carbon blocks. Those are still fine too.

My incoming water has a TDS of 75 in winter months and 100 in summer months.

When I bought my RO/DI from Marine Depot during their closeout sale, I got their 4 stage for $80 and it came with a full set of extra filters too. I also stocked up on a few other filters when there were sales, so now I have a bunch of extra filters on my shelf, but my unit doesn't seem to be burning through them as quick as I had anticipated....

 

[Woodyman]

Holy crap. What is your incoming TDS?

I'm going on 8+ months with my current set of filters and haven't noticed any pressure drop or TDS coming through yet.... I'm on my original set of filters from when I installed my RO/DI at the beginning of august. I started off with a 4 stage, but added 5th stage a few months ago, adding a second carbon block. the other filters are still the original ones.

Is a pressure drop the only way to tell when a sediment filter needs changing? Mine has started to discolor a tiny bit, but other than that, seems fine still.. no pressure drop though, so I'm assuming it isn't clogged. I also bought a chlorine test strip kit for testing my carbon blocks. Those are still fine too.

My incoming water has a TDS of 75 in winter months and 100 in summer months.

When I bought my RO/DI from Marine Depot during their closeout sale, I got their 4 stage for $80 and it came with a full set of extra filters too. I also stocked up on a few other filters when there were sales, so now I have a bunch of extra filters on my shelf, but my unit doesn't seem to be burning through them as quick as I had anticipated....

My TDS isn't horrible I sit between ~150 -200 depending on season, but I get good amount of sediment. I can typically see the pressure starting to fall off after 2 months.

 

[Woodyman]

Holy crap. What is your incoming TDS?

I'm going on 8+ months with my current set of filters and haven't noticed any pressure drop or TDS coming through yet.... I'm on my original set of filters from when I installed my RO/DI at the beginning of august. I started off with a 4 stage, but added 5th stage a few months ago, adding a second carbon block. the other filters are still the original ones.

Is a pressure drop the only way to tell when a sediment filter needs changing? Mine has started to discolor a tiny bit, but other than that, seems fine still.. no pressure drop though, so I'm assuming it isn't clogged. I also bought a chlorine test strip kit for testing my carbon blocks. Those are still fine too.

My incoming water has a TDS of 75 in winter months and 100 in summer months.

When I bought my RO/DI from Marine Depot during their closeout sale, I got their 4 stage for $80 and it came with a full set of extra filters too. I also stocked up on a few other filters when there were sales, so now I have a bunch of extra filters on my shelf, but my unit doesn't seem to be burning through them as quick as I had anticipated....

I've also cut out my first sediment lately. Testing out whether the extra 1 micron before the 0.35 micron makes a difference or not for my source water. So far seems about the same. Time will tell.

 

[BradVol]

I'm trying to find test strips for Total Chlorine and people complain about a lot of them having the first step at 0.5 ppm. I found these that have steps starting at 0.05 ppm and goes up to 0.2 ppm. Would that be a good range? I assume you want total chlorine at 0 in the RODI water.

Total Chlorine Test Strips

 

[Woodyman]

I'm trying to find test strips for Total Chlorine and people complain about a lot of them having the first step at 0.5 ppm. I found these that have steps starting at 0.05 ppm and goes up to 0.2 ppm. Would that be a good range? I assume you want total chlorine at 0 in the RODI water.

Let me find an old link. @flyfisher2 uses Salifert I believe. If your water is treated with chloramines you'll want something to check those.