Over-sized tank stand?

[jmatt]

I have a tank on order with a 48" x 30" footprint, now I need to come up with a stand. It's a basement tank so while I want it to look good, it's not a piece of living room furniture. I plan on a DIY wooden stand with side panels held in place with magnets, the entire affair trimmed and stained. Presentable but not fancy.

Anyway, I was thinking that perhaps it would be beneficial to make the base oversized by a foot, so I could have a 6" shelf that runs around the perimeter of the tank (excluding the side with the skimmer and returns). Something I could set stuff on as I work the tank, or even just a place to set my elbows when I pull up a stool to observe for a while.

Good idea? Bad idea?

 

[piranhaman00]

Put two pieces of 3/4” ply on top and you could put the weight anywhere

 

[Eagle_Steve]

I have a tank on order with a 48" x 30" footprint, now I need to come up with a stand. It's a basement tank so while I want it to look good, it's not a piece of living room furniture. I plan on a DIY wooden stand with side panels held in place with magnets, the entire affair trimmed and stained. Presentable but not fancy.

Anyway, I was thinking that perhaps it would be beneficial to make the base oversized by a foot, so I could have a 6" shelf that runs around the perimeter of the tank. Something I could set stuff on as I work the tank, or even just a place to set my elbows when I pull up a stool to observe for a while.

Good idea? Bad idea?

This will work fine as long as the bracing and legs support the tank. Unless you plan to stand on it, there would be no need for legs for the outside portion that "overhangs". YOu would just kick the framing out some for the overhang.

 

[lapin]

Yes having a rim is a good thing

 

[Eagle_Steve]

This is not the greatest, as I just threw it together in Excel.

You want a 6" lip all the way around. Doing something like this puts the legs at the tanks weight for support. Then carry the top portions out beyond the legs. When you mount plywood on top, you then have your lip all the way around. As long as you do not put a ton of weight on the plywood, then the spans between the 2x4s or 2x6's, whatever you use, would support quite a bit.

The wood that sticks out could then be used to hold the magnets for the skin.

Note: This is just for an idea of what I am referring to. You may need more "legs" depending on what lumber you use.

My stand for my 180 is built like this. It is steel, but I have a 4" lip all the way around the tank (excluding the back)

 

[jmatt]

Put two pieces of 3/4” ply on top and you could put the weight anywhere

I tend to overbuild everything, so I might do that even if I don't need to. I mean, I'm gonna buy a sheet of plywood, no sense letting half of it go to waste.

 

[jmatt]

This is not the greatest, as I just threw it together in Excel.

You want a 6" lip all the way around. Doing something like this puts the legs at the tanks weight for support. Then carry the top portions out beyond the legs. When you mount plywood on top, you then have your lip all the way around. As long as you do not put a ton of weight on the plywood, then the spans between the 2x4s or 2x6's, whatever you use, would support quite a bit.

The wood that sticks out could then be used to hold the magnets for the skin.

Note: This is just for an idea of what I am referring to. You may need more "legs" depending on what lumber you use.

My stand for my 180 is built like this. It is steel, but I have a 4" lip all the way around the tank (excluding the back)

So, really, I could probably just over-size the plywood deck and leave everything else as it would otherwise be.

I really want to avoid the middle brace, I wonder if I did the frame in 4x4 if that'd be strong enough. I would think so, I mean the span is only four feet.

But thanks, I appreciate your drawing.

 

[piranhaman00]

So, really, I could probably just over-size the plywood deck and leave everything else as it would otherwise be.

I really want to avoid the middle brace, I wonder if I did the frame in 4x4 if that'd be strong enough. I would think so, I mean the span is only four feet.

But thanks, I appreciate your drawing.

Do not use 4x4, only 2x4 or 2x6.

4x4 will warp overtime as they do not dry properly

 

[907_Reefer]

I oversized my frame by 2" wide and deep, then ran moulding around the top to get up to about 2" lip in all directions. Wanted some lip, but not too much. I like it, might go up to 3" next time but prefer the space saving 2" so far, for me. But I've only had it running for a week

I also screw 2-2x4's together to make 4x4 supports, vs using 4x4s as noted above. Pics in my build thread!

 

[jmatt]

Do not use 4x4, only 2x4 or 2x6.

4x4 will warp overtime as they do not dry properly

Noted, thanks!

 

[jmatt]

Been mulling this over.

The good thing about a ledge is that it gives you room to set things down on it.

The bad thing about a ledge is that it gives you room to set things down on it.

That could pose a danger, I suppose, if that something wasn't friendly with glass. Hmm.

6" is too big anyway. Perhaps 3" or 4".