Overflow box or pvc pipes only

[isazh86]

Hi,

I am planing new tank , 60g or about 240l , dimensions 100x50x50 in cm.

I have some doubt about overflow, i will go with 3 holes bottom tank (2x32mm ana 1 x25mm for returning. I measured bulkhead and some minimal dimension for overflow box will be 25cm x 15, thats a quite large in that aquarium.

So i saw some photos with only pipes, and thats look interesting, but i need some information about that overflow?

 

[pluikens]

Have you drilled the holes already? I have run smaller tanks (40 gallon) and to keep the footprint open, I install the retrofit overflows with backing from CPR with drain and return holes drilled into the back or side. I have the same tanks which I just used bulkheads into the side with strainer grates and I am much more nervous about those compared to the ones with the overflow box. I haven't had issues with either, I'm just a little bit nervous about the strainers getting clogged vs the overflow box. If you still want to drill the bottom, keep in mind that the return hole doesn't need to be inside the overflow box.

 

[isazh86]

Hi tnx for reply, no i did not yet, just planing, now i have 30g with sump and diy overflow no holes.

Yea thats one of the option to make a little bit smaller overflow, with only two holes, and maybe one across overflow ( on the opisite side)

So you think that sistem with only pvc pipes standing in tank its not a safe option?

 

[pluikens]

I've only run mine without an overflow box for a couple of months and they are on a remote refugium tank and a remote rock flower anemone tank. I have rock stacked up all around the overflow to keep chaeto in the refugium from getting to the strainers. I think it depends on what's going to be in your tank and the size of your piping. If one of your pipes is going to be full siphon and the other to set your water level, I would really want to make sure I had large enough diameter pipe that snails couldn't slow down flow enough to be an issue. There's no reason this shouldn't work as long as the pipes remain unobstructed. I have seen this somewhat mitigated by the use of a water level sensor and controller or at least something like the AutoAqua Smart Level Security to turn off power to your return pump if the water level in your display gets too far above the water line of your drain pipe. This should lessen the chance of a flood but without an alert to you and a way to clear the obstruction, you'd then need to consider a heater in your display.

 

[isazh86]

One will be for siphon, other the umergency siphon. If i will go with that i will put some bars on the pipes.

Tnx for the tip with senzor, very helpful.

This is what will look like, only i will go with black backgound.

 

[pluikens]

Yes, I use the Lifegard Aquatics strainers (not low profile) as they provide the most surface area so less chance of completely clogging. I like the use of Ts in the picture above. That will add even more surface area per drain. I'm not sure which of those pipes in the pictures is the return or full siphon drain but you'll probably want those two lower below the water line. If the far left is the return (which it looks like it is from the disturbance of the water near it), that will cause a fair bit of splashing if it's above the water line. If the middle one is the full siphon, that close to the water line will likely cause a vortex to form even with strainer grates. I run 500-600 GPH through mine and the top of the 1-inch pipe has to be at least 1.5 inches below the water line. You'll still want this fairly high though as your tank will drain down all the way to this pipe when the return pump is powered off.

 

[isazh86]

I understand you, i dont know on the picture what is pipe in the middle.

As you say return must be over the water level because return pump when energy is off always do siphon in sump.

And i will put emergency litle below the main drain.

So, you think this can be productive to system, like i said pros are space in tank, you can also put frags on it so can be realy interasting.

Cons are, correct me if i am wrong, maybe less skimming surface( but that with maybe pvc 40mm with Ts can be sufficent) and one thing i am realy worry about is, what if bulkhead go wrong and just drain whole tank? I am planing to glue pvc with bulk head from bottom and put some extra film of cement so nothing can brake down.

 

[pluikens]

My best advice is if you haven't drilled, use an overflow box with holes on the back glass if you're concerned about available footprint in the tank. Where are you located so I can look for where you can find the overflow?

To respond to your last post: I'd use locline on your return to get the exit from the return pipe as close to the running water line as possible without causing too much splashing. The emergency line should be above your main siphon line. This will have a slow trickle through it and it will set your running water line. I would not put frags on the pipes as once the corals are growing really well, they may block your drainage. If you're thinking of covering up the pipes with corals, I'd rather cover up the overflow box with corals.

 

[isazh86]

Tnx very much for information. One last question, what size of pipe for drain with 2 pipes one main and one emergncy I need for 60 gal tank. For return i will go 3/4 " and 25mm aquamedic bulkhead.

Do i need 2x25 bulkhead with 3/4" pvc pipes for drain or to go with 2x32 bulkhead, with 1" drain pipes?

 

[pluikens]

I would say 1 inch pipes for the drains. That will also lessen the chance that something gets caught in there.

 

[isazh86]

Tnx a lot! I will put valve on drain so i will lower the flow of drain, so i can get about 450 gph trough sump. 1" pipe is for 900gph , and 3/4 is for 400gph so for sure better will be with valve half open. I

 

[FrancisHam]

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