Overflow

  • Thread starter Thread starter bmbpka
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a gate valve absolutely adjusts the level in the outside overflow box, as you close the valve the water level in the outer box rises, open the valve the water level lowers. :) I've had mine running for almost a year and haven't had to adjust it once

I am well aware of what the gate valve is used for. I did install it.... My experience with this OF is you either have to gate the main siphon to increase the water height and stop the tornado, or you have to back the valve off because water is going down the emergency. It was never happy in between. Hence the reason I had to put the U pipe in and lower my emergency pipe at the sump. This OF needs re-engineered.
 
I am well aware of what the gate valve is used for. I did install it.... My experience with this OF is you either have to gate the main siphon to increase the water height and stop the tornado, or you have to back the valve off because water is going down the emergency. It was never happy in between. Hence the reason I had to put the U pipe in and lower my emergency pipe at the sump. This OF needs re-engineered.
I think we got our wires crossed, sorry about that :)
 
I plan on changing some things with my plumbing. Gate valve is one of them.

All the gate valve on BRS say schedule 80... can’t seem to find one that will work with my sch 40 pipe. I really don’t want to redo the entire thing, priced that out today and it was over $200...

Second, I’m seeing conflicting post about wait time. One threaded stated 3-4 days to wait before I run water through the system. Next said a few hours. I know it will cure quickly, but I’m worried about it being toxic still. A simple annoyance will quickly turn into a lot of dead money in my tank.
 
I plan on changing some things with my plumbing. Gate valve is one of them.

All the gate valve on BRS say schedule 80... can’t seem to find one that will work with my sch 40 pipe. I really don’t want to redo the entire thing, priced that out today and it was over $200...

Second, I’m seeing conflicting post about wait time. One threaded stated 3-4 days to wait before I run water through the system. Next said a few hours. I know it will cure quickly, but I’m worried about it being toxic still. A simple annoyance will quickly turn into a lot of dead money in my tank.

Schedule 80 is just heavy duty. You can use it. But, I found a better and cheaper gate valve at Home Depot. While you’re at it, add unions too. It will save you time at some point in the future.

As far as wait time. 24hrs is safe.
 
I let stuff sit overnight.

I don't have any problem using ball valves? Never used anything else because I never needed to.
 
I plan on changing some things with my plumbing. Gate valve is one of them.

All the gate valve on BRS say schedule 80... can’t seem to find one that will work with my sch 40 pipe. I really don’t want to redo the entire thing, priced that out today and it was over $200...

Second, I’m seeing conflicting post about wait time. One threaded stated 3-4 days to wait before I run water through the system. Next said a few hours. I know it will cure quickly, but I’m worried about it being toxic still. A simple annoyance will quickly turn into a lot of dead money in my tank.

The pipe/fitting schedule dictates the wall thickness. The pipe size dictates the outer diameter. A 1" Sch.40 pipe will fit a 1" Sch.80 valve. General pipe is available in schedule 10 thru XXH. PVC pipe/valve/fitting parts are typically schedule 40 or schedule 80.
 
Swamped out the plumbing. Went all 45s this time with gate valves and plenty of unions. I never want to plumb an active tank ever again. That sucked.

Two things, my main line now has a wicked vortex. What causes this and Any solution to this?

Anyone know if the eclipse overflow has two sizes of bulkheads? I swamped my emergency line and main line side. The red tube didn’t fit into the other side, I had to use a Dremel and thin the red pipe down. Which resulted in not a very good deal which constantly trickles now into sump.
 
Swamped out the plumbing. Went all 45s this time with gate valves and plenty of unions. I never want to plumb an active tank ever again. That sucked.

Two things, my main line now has a wicked vortex. What causes this and Any solution to this?

Anyone know if the eclipse overflow has two sizes of bulkheads? I swamped my emergency line and main line side. The red tube didn’t fit into the other side, I had to use a Dremel and thin the red pipe down. Which resulted in not a very good deal which constantly trickles now into sump.

C99EDFDF-A9E7-4531-9900-91F55FFB408C.jpeg


26EDDE25-96D5-48EF-8BBC-B918AF5134CB.jpeg
 
Just a suggestion... Using two 90° fittings to make a U-Tube may not fit in your box. You likely won't find a 1" U-Tube fitting, but you can make one. Simply cut down a 90° fitting, sand it down nice and smooth, so that it mates up well with a full size 90° and cement them together. This is the one I made for my main siphon drain. I may have more room than you do in my box and I needed to do this to get a U-tube in mine. This might help you fit it in yours.

125-U-Tube1.jpeg


125-U-Tube2.jpeg


125-U-Tube3.jpeg
 
I don’t think it will fit, but I’ll stop by Home Depot and give it a try. Raising my emergency line helped. It seems if the water level is lower than the main bulkhead feeding the overflow, I get a vortex. If I get slightly above, it goes away.
 
I don’t think it will fit, but I’ll stop by Home Depot and give it a try. Raising my emergency line helped. It seems if the water level is lower than the main bulkhead feeding the overflow, I get a vortex. If I get slightly above, it goes away.
Look how high I run mine it's 2/3 up on my bulkheads. In addition if you make your own u tube drill a hole in it TDC it'll help any potential air lock.
 
Maybe 2 inches or so I'll measure it in the morning. However I'm using a synergy 16 but the concept is still the same.
 

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