Overkill? SPS light build

[Stoneyed]

Hi all!

This is the layout for my 180g (72"x24"x24") sps lights.

I currently am running these types of chips (12 total) with decent success (acros growing slowly), but feel like i can do better. Current PAR readings are about 150 mid-tank at 80%, so this should bump me up substantially... especially with the addition of the full-spectrum chips.

Chips are laid out to avoid the center braces and overflows. Each chip is a dimmable 50w, with 110v driver onboard. The price point on these is low enough to buy a few spares... which given their sourcing, is probably a good idea.

6 Channels: Blue1, Blue2, Full Spectrum, 30k, 20k, UV.

These will be run from a wifi dimmer that will handle dimming channels on/off, as well as geolocated weather events (e.g. if it's storming in Fiji, reduce Full Spectrum + 20k by 30%).

Heat sink (12" x 60") is on it's way, and I already have all the chips and dimmers. Will post updates as the build progresses.

 

[Wasabiroot]

Do these come with lenses on them?

 

[Stoneyed]

They are epoxy sealed, but don't come with lenses. I have some lenses and reflectors from a different project I plan on trying.

 

[dansyr]

This is cool! You're doing this with live geo data? where are you getting that from (i've only found easily-parsable historic data), and what scale of weather events are you doing?

 

[theatrus]

Overkill? Not really, you have dim control. I'm curious how well those chips respond to dimming, and whether they will just end up chopping at 60Hz like most dimmable LED bulbs.

 

[Stoneyed]

This is cool! You're doing this with live geo data? where are you getting that from (i've only found easily-parsable historic data), and what scale of weather events are you doing?

The smart dimmer handles all of it. IDK what weather data it uses, but i'd guess it's either weatherunderground, or something similar. Screenshots below for the app setup. For now, i have it set to reduce the white lights by 20% when it rains in Cairns, Australia.

 

[Stoneyed]

Overkill? Not really, you have dim control. I'm curious how well those chips respond to dimming, and whether they will just end up chopping at 60Hz like most dimmable LED bulbs.

The dimmer has a couple built-in modes. I got lucky on my first try, and don't see any chopping. It dims down to either 10 or 20% (IIRC). I did try a triarc dimmer a while ago, and it looked like a strobe!

 

[dansyr]

The smart dimmer handles all of it. IDK what weather data it uses, but i'd guess it's either weatherunderground, or something similar. Screenshots below for the app setup. For now, i have it set to reduce the white lights by 20% when it rains in Cairns, Australia.

Ah cool, thanks!

 

[oreo54]

A1:MOV for surge protection>4000V passed
A2:1000V Bridge rectifier
A3:Constant current and constant power control
A4:NTC sensor for pcb overheat protection
A5:Voltage-regulator for ic vdd protectio
A6river IC, over voltage and over current control
A7:It can use led dimmer or SCR dimmer to dimming it


Are you using this kind?

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[Stoneyed]

A1:MOV for surge protection>4000V passed
A2:1000V Bridge rectifier
A3:Constant current and constant power control
A4:NTC sensor for pcb overheat protection
A5:Voltage-regulator for ic vdd protectio
A6river IC, over voltage and over current control
A7:It can use led dimmer or SCR dimmer to dimming it


Are you using this kind?

Pardon Our Interruption...

Yep! I think i got the blues, 20k, and 30ks from that vendor.

 

[Stoneyed]

Received the heatsinks! First step is to attach them together with 2-part metal epoxy. A 60" heatsink was prohibitively costly, so I used 2x 30"

Next step is measuring everything out, and marking the screw holes

Drill baby drill!

3mm tap in all the holes

After tapping, I washed the heatsink, then degreased it with isopropyl alcohol. Next step: thermal grease. Definitely wear gloves, because this stuff gets everywhere!

Temp assembly so I can begin wiring everything up. Final assembly will happen after I receive the lenses.

 

[theatrus]

Looks good.

Gluing that center joint would make me uncomfortable, especially in shear. Get some small scrap aluminum or buy a hobby bar at the Home Despot and at least join them with a plate fastener as a backup.

 

[oreo54]

Looks good.

Gluing that center joint would make me uncomfortable, especially in shear. Get some small scrap aluminum or buy a hobby bar at the Home Despot and at least join them with a plate fastener as a backup.

I agree esp. since they have the drill and tap availability..

 

[Stoneyed]

Looks good.

Gluing that center joint would make me uncomfortable, especially in shear. Get some small scrap aluminum or buy a hobby bar at the Home Despot and at least join them with a plate fastener as a backup.

That's... A really good idea! In theory the epoxy has plenty of strength... But better safe than sorry.

 

[theatrus]

The last thing I'd hate to see is the heatsink split down the middle, laying into the tank, with live 120V electrolysis bubbling away. The epoxy adds a great amount of stiffness to the whole thing, but I've learned with glue to never trust it fully.

 

[Stoneyed]

All my homies hate shear forces

Cutting wire channels

Progress!

Top. Terminal strip will be protected with a plastic "cap"

 

[theatrus]

All my homies hate shear forces

Cutting wire channels

Progress!

Top. Terminal strip will be protected with a plastic "cap"

Shear force awareness squad.

Looks good. I've had lots of luck just tacking wires with silicone adhesives to channels in heatsinks.

Do you have a bottom clear cover planned?

 

[Spacemonkey]

~Nice! Can't wait to see it finished.

 

[Stoneyed]

Shear force awareness squad.

Looks good. I've had lots of luck just tacking wires with silicone adhesives to channels in heatsinks.

Do you have a bottom clear cover planned?

Silicone is the plan for when everything is done. Tape is just to keep it organized while I work on it.

I ended up ordering ~70 degree lenses for each of the chips, so that should protect them from splashes. The driver portions on the chips are epoxy-coated, so humidity shouldn't be an issue

 

[theatrus]

The only area of concern maybe is the connectors. I've lost fixtures due to salt creep, where sudden condensation totally bridged a bunch of connections with high voltage. Once everything is built up, maybe check how exposed the connections get and weigh whether just covering them in silicone too is worth the hassle. Its probably readily removable enough if you do need to swap a module.