***Ozone Ozone***

This is my first ozone system, so I'm not sure how others work. I'm really happy with mine. Plus when I sent Avast an email on the weekend when I was first installing mine. They responded within 15 min. I have a total of 600 gallons of water. I use the ORP on my ghl system to turn it off and on. I set my ORP level to 400. Above 400 it turns off.
Hi Ken
I'm going to be installing Ozone on my new build. I was curious about your readings before Ozone and than after using Ozone?
Water clarity is a given, enabling better light penitration. But that 3rd oxygen molecule oxidizing inorganics is what's most important?
The oxidizing affect on phosphates and Nitrates that untreated lowers ph. What were your numbers before Ozone and now after using Ozone?
 
But that 3rd oxygen molecule oxidizing inorganics is what's most important?
The oxidizing affect on phosphates and Nitrates that untreated lowers ph. What were your numbers before Ozone and now after using Ozone?

Is that a typo? Did you mean organics?

Neither nitrate nor phosphate can be oxidized by ozone.

IMO, the primary benefit of ozone is clearer water, primarily be reacting with certain specific organic molecules, especially those with carbon-carbon double bonds that absorb light.
 
Is that a typo? Did you mean organics?

Neither nitrate nor phosphate can be oxidized by ozone.

IMO, the primary benefit of ozone is clearer water, primarily be reacting with certain specific organic molecules, especially those with carbon-carbon double bonds that absorb light.
No, what causes Nitrates and Phosphates(uneaten food, detritus build up, dead fish or cuc,etc)? The 3rd molecule is going to try to oxidize these things.
 
I have used it in my reef continuously except for about 5 years for 50 years. No problems yet. :)
 
No, what causes Nitrates and Phosphates(uneaten food, detritus build up, dead fish or cuc,etc)? The 3rd molecule is going to try to oxidize these things.

OK, let's back up.

There is no third molecule. There is a third atom of oxygen in ozone.

Ozone does not have a big resulting impact on nitrate or phosphate values at all, whether from oxidation of organics that contain N or P or anything else.

Nitrate and phosphate come mostly from eaten and digested food.

It is not a reason to use or not use ozone.
 
OK, let's back up.

There is no third molecule. There is a third atom of oxygen in ozone.

Ozone does not have a big resulting impact on nitrate or phosphate values at all, whether from oxidation of organics that contain N or P or anything else.

Nitrate and phosphate come mostly from eaten and digested food.

It is not a reason to use or not use ozone.
So as a result of keeping your ORP higher, around (350 - 450) you have not seen it affect your Nitrates, phosphates, or ph?
 
So as a result of keeping your ORP higher, around (350 - 450) you have not seen it affect your Nitrates, phosphates, or ph?

No, ozone generally does not have much impact on pH, nitrate, or phosphate.

As to ORP, there is no desirable range for ORP that you should target using ozone, IMO. You do need to make sure it does not rise too high, because that likely means lots of toxic ozone produced oxidants in the water, but raising ORP is not the purpose of adding ozone. The purpose is to attain the functional effects such as clearer water, and that is not directly related to the ORP.

I discuss all of these sorts of issues in these articles:

Ozone and the Reef Aquarium, Part 1: Chemistry and Biochemistry by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com

Ozone and the Reef Aquarium, Part 2: Equipment and Safety by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com

Ozone and the Reef Aquarium, Part 3: Changes in a Reef Aquarium upon Initiating Ozone by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com

This section is from the second one:

So with all that background discussion behind us, here are my recommendations for ORP monitoring and ozone control in reef aquaria using a properly sized ozone generator that appears to be working, and a properly calibrated ORP meter:

1. If the ORP never seems to rise above 375 mV after initiating ozone, do not worry about controlling the ozone or the ORP. Just let it run full out. Also, do not worry about needing a larger generator, assuming it has driven up the ORP by at least 25 mV above where it was before adding ozone. It is likely accomplishing the necessary tasks (such as making the water clearer). Only if some other aspect of ozone use is unsatisfying (e.g., lack of water clarity) would I look for other options such as a larger ozone generator or a better contact chamber.

2. If the ORP starts above 375 mV, or rises there during ozone use, using an ORP controller would be valuable to prevent the ORP from rising too high. Use the controller to shut off the ozone when the ORP rises too high. Another option would be to shut off the air flow to save the dryer's media, but be sure that water cannot flow back into the ozone generator if the air stops. I would set the ORP target somewhat above the baseline ORP in the absence of ozone - at least 350 mV, maybe 400 mV, but never above 450 mV.
 
Paul, are adding ozone through a skimmer or Ozone Reactor? What are your water parameters? Phosphates, Nitrates, and ph?
I have no idea and have not tested those things in decades.

I add Ozone through my skimmer full blast and I do not use carbon. :)
 
what if you just have a ozone generator and not all the fancy equipment? Just a 10 min cycle of ozone and carbon dosing on a small system? What is everyone's suggestions ozone on a budget?
 

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