Paint for stands.

Id have to recommend Sherwin Williams paint, but I'm partial because I've worked for them 10yrs. ProClassic oil based white with satin finish for mine. Built for an AIO so no doors to hide sump.

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That's a great looking stand!
 
I primed the whole stand/canopy with 3 coats of Behr Premium Plus All-In-One Primer % Sealer, No. 75 Interior. Great, safe, low VOC, and low odor paint.

I then coated the inside of the stand and canopy with Rustoleum Epoxy White Gloss Appliance Paint (make sure you do this outside with a ventilator). This stuff forms a hard shiny shell that is waterproof and even washable!
 
I would be interested in seeing a tank stand being painted with a metallic epoxy. Something like but on the stand of course. Has anyone tried this?
 
If you want an amazing finish that is easy to wipe down, very water resistant and will still look perfect in 10 years, then I would suggest Varathane water based polyurethane floor finish.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Varathan...ter-Based-Floor-Polyurethane-230231/100142887

Simply paint your stand with whatever paint you want. Whether it be brushed on, sprayed on, out of a spray can etc... it doesn't matter. Once you do several coats of the Varathane over it, you will not have to worry about it. We use it on bar tops and table tops for restaurants.... still looks perfect after 5 years of ultra heavy traffic, getting wiped down constantly etc. We have also used it on wood floors in kitchen areas at restaurants where it gets HIGHLY abused.
 
I went with a couple coats of kilz primer. Then 3 coats of Sherwin Williams outdoor latex based paint with a gloss finish. The outdoor gloss finish is more like an indoor semi gloss. Sanding between every coat and started to use finer grit sandpaper towards the end coats for a glossier finish.

Then sealed with minwax finishing wax. Went with this instead of a polyurethane finish, polyurethane will yellow over time on top of a white coat. The minwax finishing wax is meant for furniture that is white and light colored. It also comes in a dark colored wax as well.
 
I went with a couple coats of kilz primer. Then 3 coats of Sherwin Williams outdoor latex based paint with a gloss finish. The outdoor gloss finish is more like an indoor semi gloss. Sanding between every coat and started to use finer grit sandpaper towards the end coats for a glossier finish.

Then sealed with minwax finishing wax. Went with this instead of a polyurethane finish, polyurethane will yellow over time on top of a white coat. The minwax finishing wax is meant for furniture that is white and light colored. It also comes in a dark colored wax as well.

So did you sand between the primer coats or just the outdoor latex paint? Do you like how it came out? Did you spray, roll, or brush it? I've heard they have a paint grade meant for furniture do you think that would work better than outdoor paint?
Would love to see pictures.
 
Going to bump this for our new stand looking for a satin finish when we are done. Looking for low odor (garage painting project) we want the best water seal and durable finish for very long term.
 
You may want to check out the work by @BornHandy.
 
Born Handy has great videos! Thanks for sharing!

I had a hard time finding paint information for my 375g build which has a steel stand with Poplar wood panels and trim.

Also I live in California where we cannot get oil based paints and I am going for a smooth finish. I was afraid to use latex paint because it usually sands like a rubber glove and the drying time between coats is very long.

I ended up selecting bullseye 123 for the primer which takes like a week of drying time before you can sand it and then multiple coats of Dunn Edwards ARISTOSHIELD which is a water-based urethane alkyd that is supposed to give an oil like finish.

So far I have used this paint for a small project on my son's aquarium and that worked well and has held up well this last year. I haven't started applying paint to the 375g tank stand. Hope that helps.
-Paul
 
I like the wood look so I stained and used several coats of clear polyurethane on the outside wood and just used polyurethane on the inside to seal the wood. Water beads right up on it after 5 years.
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Good feedback and great work on the stand!
 
If you want an amazing finish that is easy to wipe down, very water resistant and will still look perfect in 10 years, then I would suggest Varathane water based polyurethane floor finish.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Varathan...ter-Based-Floor-Polyurethane-230231/100142887

Simply paint your stand with whatever paint you want. Whether it be brushed on, sprayed on, out of a spray can etc... it doesn't matter. Once you do several coats of the Varathane over it, you will not have to worry about it. We use it on bar tops and table tops for restaurants.... still looks perfect after 5 years of ultra heavy traffic, getting wiped down constantly etc. We have also used it on wood floors in kitchen areas at restaurants where it gets HIGHLY abused.
Seriously considering this for our build. Due to the temp, it will be below 50. Longer dry time? Or a no go?
 
I used a quart of Behr Black Exterior High Gloss from HD which I sprayed on with a paint gun. After that dried for a few days I then applied a Clear Coat finish called ProAcrylic by hand which is water repellant and very durable. The stand came out very shiny and bright. Make sure before you start do all your prep work sanding, fill in cracks with caulk etc.
Second on the acrylic. You can use whatever paint you want. I’ve built plenty of high humidity vivariums out plywood and stained the inside and outside with myriad varnishes. Then, I’d grab some minwax polycrylic and coat the whole thing. Nothing will seep through when cured, into or out of the wood. The acrylic clear coat opens you up to using pretty much anything you want.
 
I dont think polyurethane yellows. Not sure though because i used it over wood. But it has lasted for 5 years so far. Gets wet...wipe it off.
 
Seriously considering this for our build. Due to the temp, it will be below 50. Longer dry time? Or a no go?
I would say longer time to dry but 50 is little chilly. When you bring it in warm climate it may soften and finish curing.

can you use a space heater or something it warmup the room or the stand. I find most paints epoxy like 60 or warmer.At work I use heat guns, or halogen lights to warm up stuff.
 

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