PAR recommendations for specific acros?

SamMule

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Looking for some par recommendations for some of the acros I have. Would like to optimize final placement, now that I have a PAR meter.
Here is where they are currently sitting:
A. Chesterfieldensis (I think) 285
A. Sarmentosa 282
Cali Tort 285
GARF Bansai 212
Pink dragon (not sure if same as red dragon? 207
Aussie Gold or miyagi tort (was told aussie gold, but not sure how to tell the difference. 179
Hawkins Echinata 224
Green slimer? 280
Yellow Tips 281

Red Sea max250 with T5's and a ReefBrite actinic strip.
I only have 3 bulbs in my 6 bulb fixture right now, so I can add bulbs to increase PAR if necessary. However, before removing the bulbs, I was having issues with over lighting many of my other corals.

Opinions?
 
Looking for some par recommendations for some of the acros I have. Would like to optimize final placement, now that I have a PAR meter.
Here is where they are currently sitting:
A. Chesterfieldensis (I think) 285
A. Sarmentosa 282
Cali Tort 285
GARF Bansai 212
Pink dragon (not sure if same as red dragon? 207
Aussie Gold or miyagi tort (was told aussie gold, but not sure how to tell the difference. 179
Hawkins Echinata 224
Green slimer? 280
Yellow Tips 281

Red Sea max250 with T5's and a ReefBrite actinic strip.
I only have 3 bulbs in my 6 bulb fixture right now, so I can add bulbs to increase PAR if necessary. However, before removing the bulbs, I was having issues with over lighting many of my other corals.

Opinions?
What is alk, no3 and po4 at? Nutrients, alk and light coincide with each other for sps. (Calcium too, but those 3 really go together IMO)

For example, I have an unnamed acro in a high all and high nutrient tank that gets 450-500 par depending on the surface agitation from the pumps program. I fragged it and move to another tank that is lower alk and lower nutrients and put in same light and it began to bleach. (It was slowly acclimated to the alk shift) Lowered it down to about 250 par and it is back to normal. Same lights on both tanks.
 
Alk has been between 8.5-9.
Was low to mid 9's a couple months ago.
I am slowly bringing it down to 8.5
Calc 420
Nitrates 5-10
Phophates .05 (Hannah)
 
Running coral+ , blue+, actinic right now.
I have enough bulbs to do about any combination of ATI bulbs, as well as a few 10,000k giesman IIRC, and some red Sea pink bulbs.

Like I was saying though, with 6 bulbs, I had some angry corals.

Remember, this is a RSM250 with a hood, so the bulbs are like an inch from the water.
With 4 bulbsand the strip, I am over 600 par on the surface and 300 in the sand bed
 
How long is your photo period? IME it's pretty tough to bleach out most acropora with T5's unless you run them for more than 8-9 hours.
 
T5's are on from 11-7. Strip is on from 8-11.

Acros weren't bleaching. However, I almost lost my sunset monti and my mystic sunset monti bleached pretty bad.
The sunset is on the mend and the mystic sunset has fully recovered since the light reduction.
I had a large colony if green hydnophora that lost a lot of flesh on all parts in direct light. The shaded parts were fine.
PE on all of my euphyllia (except my torch) was not great, but as soon as I dropped down to 3 bulbs the PE got way better.

So, at this point, everything looks happy, but I am wondering more or less light would be optimal for any of these specific acros.
Here is a current FTS.
16009938627921300969683650234762.jpg
 
Still looking for opinions on PAR for these corals.
I have researched each one with the ol google machine as well as I can, but the information on many of them is contradictory.
 

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