Paramater advice needed.

[dfm34]

I am running a 180 gal sps tank and my parameters are as follows

Ca 390
Alk 9.3
Mg 1490
No3 0-1
Po4 .03

My corals are ok but not great some are brown and I don't have a lot of growth. But no real issues with stn or rtn.

These have been my reading for the past three months. About a 3 months ago my Alk was 8.0 I tried to raise my Ca to 400 by dosing Kent Turbo calcium But the only effect was an increase in Alk to 9.3. I lost one Frag due to the sudden increase in Alk and I stop dosing.

Since then all levels have remained steady. I would really like to raise Ca to 420 and lower Alk to 8.0

My question is since I have stability should I change any thing and if so how since last time my Ca dosing failed miserably

Thanks for your opinions in advance.

 

[Downbeach]

Are you using any type of pH buffer? If so, that is what is raising your alk, not the Kent product, which I think is just calcium chloride. I would just let the alk come down on its own, and add enough of the calcium chloride to elevate your Ca where you want it.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I agree. Kent Turbo calcium will only raise calcium and not alkalinity, unless someone switched products in the bottle. Same for any brand of calcium chloride, which is fine (and maybe cheaper).

That said, I doubt the corals will notice any difference at 390 ppm or 400 ppm calcium.

 

[dfm34]

I am using Kalkwasser (sp) can't figure out what would jump Alk like that if I dosed too much would it precipitate and raise Alk?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I am using Kalkwasser (sp) can't figure out what would jump Alk like that if I dosed too much would it precipitate and raise Alk?

Limewater (kalkwasser) adds calcium and alkalinity, and a slight overdose, especially over time, results in alkalinity rising (without, perhaps, a noticeable change in calcium).

A big overdose of limewater results in precipitation, sometimes turning the tank milky.

 

[dfm34]

I have been using 1/4 cup Kalkwasser every other week in a kalk stirrer and my ato it has not changed at all. I guess my question is if my corals are "ok" should I change or leave it. My gut tells me to leave it as is and not chase numbers

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I have been using 1/4 cup Kalkwasser every other week in a kalk stirrer and my ato it has not changed at all. I guess my question is if my corals are "ok" should I change or leave it. My gut tells me to leave it as is and not chase numbers

If the alkalinity continues to rise, you might want to deliver less limewater in some fashion. But I do not consider an alkalinity of 9.3 dKH to be a concern.

FWIW, limewater (kalwkasser) is all I use for calcium and alkalinity.

 

[Downbeach]

If its working, don't fix it. What type of lighting do you have? Are you running any GAC?

 

[dfm34]

Thanks Randy I will stick with the limewater my parameters have been rock steady for several months now.

Downbeach I am using GAC and my lights are 3x400W MH with 4x80w t5 about 11" above the water

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

You're welcome.

Happy Reefing.

 

[stevediaz1]

hello my name is steve and i was recommended to you to help me out I'm new at dosing and i want to start the "red sea foundation" (liquid form) to dose my saltwater tank my magnesium is at 960 how much should i dose with "red sea foundation complete liquid supplement pack" to get to 1360 below are my readings i used a red sea test kit

11/21 magnesium was 1160
11/29 magnesium was 960
-----------------------------
11/21 calcium was 325
11/29 calcium was 380
------------------------------
11/21 alkalinity was 325
11/29 alkalinity was 380


i have about 35/45 pound of live Fiji rock and about 2/2 1/2 inches of live sand
and i have a innovative marine fusion 30 long shallow reef tank 30 gallon system AIO
2 torches
2 green star polyps
2 clown fish
5/6 zoanthid frags colony
2 small pulsating xenias
1 sympodium coral
1 cleaner shrimp
1 sandals goby
and a set of clean up crew

 

[Downbeach]

I would suggest you check your SG to make sure its what you think it is. What are you using to measure it with? If it's a swing arm type hydrometer or a non/mis calibrated device you may not be adding enough salt mix when you're making up your WC water. I'm betting that you'll find that its on the low side, and as a result you're not putting enough Ca, Mg and Alk when you're doing WC's. I would suggest you get your SG to 1.026(35ppt), using a properly calibrated refractometer, or other device, and re visit those tests. It's unlikely your Mg dropped by 200ppm in a week, unless you did a WC between with low SG water. It also appears you've recorded the Ca readings in both Ca and Alk in the post.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

I agree, More emphatically: magnesium cannot drop 200 ppm in a week. Not even in two months. Except by water changes with a very low magnesium mix (and I'm not aware of any).

Try the kit on some of your new salt water (what brand?) and maybe get a confirmation of the tank value with a different test.

 

[stevediaz1]

hello again mr farley/randy i would love to get your personal opinion/answer on a couple of questions I'm sorry if I'm bothering you but you come highly recommended and you really know your stuff so i would really love if you could help me in these regards thank you

Question no.1
I'm currently testing with these products below should i keep using them?
what do you recommend to use what brands? please help me to choose the right ones i'm looking for ease of use and reliability
keep in mind I'm new to this hobby.

- HANNA CHECKER HI758 for calcium
- HANNA CHECKER HI755 for alkalinity
- HANNA CHECKER HI713 for phosphate
- red sea test kit for mg, ( kit also comes with ca,alk )
- & api tests for ammonia,ph,nitrite,nitrate

Question no.2
in the pictures i provided for the api test am i right or wrong
for ammonia i think its 0ppm
for nitrite i think its 0ppm ( nitrite always comes out that color )
and for nitrate i think its between 30 to 40 ppm whats your take on it?

 

[stevediaz1]

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

hello again mr farley/randy i would love to get your personal opinion/answer on a couple of questions I'm sorry if I'm bothering you but you come highly recommended and you really know your stuff so i would really love if you could help me in these regards thank you

Question no.1
I'm currently testing with these products below should i keep using them?e
what do you recommend to use what brands? please help me to choose the right ones i'm looking for ease of use and reliability
keep in mind I'm new to this hobby.

- HANNA CHECKER HI758 for calcium
- HANNA CHECKER HI755 for alkalinity
- HANNA CHECKER HI713 for phosphate
- red sea test kit for mg, ( kit also comes with ca,alk )
- & api tests for ammonia,ph,nitrite,nitrate

Question no.2
in the pictures i provided for the api test am i right or wrong
for ammonia i think its 0ppm
for nitrite i think its 0ppm ( nitrite always comes out that color )
and for nitrate i think its between 30 to 40 ppm whats your take on it?

I've not used the Hanna checkers at all, but IMO, the phosphate one is a good way to go, and if you have the others I'd use them, but be wary if you get a result that seems odd, especially calcium as many folks seem to have troubles with it.

In general, there's no need to measure ammonia or nitrite in an established reef. Some ammonia kits have a tendency to show a little ammonia even when none is likely present.

pH with a kit is a useful guide, and may be adequate, but a pH meter is a much better way to go. Again, if the kit says something odd, double check it before acting.

I might say 20 ppm for the nitrate, but the others look fine at 0.