Peninsula closed loop design

I have had the valves under the bulkheads spring slow leaks in the past. No problem taking them out without draining the tank. The bulkhead is threaded inside the tank. I simply thread in a cap, close the other valves and drain the water in the pipe. I can then remove and service the valve.
THIS IS GENIOUS.
 
What about placing 2 -4 large volume Tunze power heads in the tank and placing them inside the rocks in strategic locations on the far side of the tank. They even have a rock with the plastic ring to mount it in or make your own. Seems like a lot more “safe“ option without all the plumbing hassles and possible leaks in a closed system.
I feel like that's why most people go the route of powerheads. That and the DC part is a HUGE advantage while a DC large flow pump is really cost prohibitive for most.

I personally enjoy the plumbing part, but most of all, I want the tank to look "clean."
 
What about placing 2 -4 large volume Tunze power heads in the tank and placing them inside the rocks in strategic locations on the far side of the tank. They even have a rock with the plastic ring to mount it in or make your own. Seems like a lot more “safe“ option without all the plumbing hassles and possible leaks in a closed system.
Still have cords.
Really wish the mp series had directional covers. This would be hugh in the fact you could put them under the tank. I'm surprised nobody has 3d printed them yet.
 
Does anyone know how long the power cords are on the Tunze powerheads? This would be the only limiting factor as the cord has to be long enough to exit the tank.
 
I am considering a closed loop as well but I am worried about a failure within the loop. What would be an emergency plan or fail safe plan if you get a leak on a fitting or a leak somewhere in the system?How would you going to keep the tank from completely draining? I assume a check valve would be installed but all it takes is a small piece of sand to allow the valve to fail.

What if a meteor falls out of the sky and hits my tank? My point is that you cant protect against everything. You cannot make everything triple redundant and failsafe. Check valves are a waste of time, I'd bet that they will fail long before the bulkhead or valve. Use schedule 80 bulkheads and valves and the systems should work without issue for years and years.
 
What about placing 2 -4 large volume Tunze power heads in the tank and placing them inside the rocks in strategic locations on the far side of the tank. They even have a rock with the plastic ring to mount it in or make your own. Seems like a lot more “safe“ option without all the plumbing hassles and possible leaks in a closed system.
Definitely not interested in this option. IME, power heads will require maintenance and cleaning more often, so don't waste your time trying to tuck them into the rocks, because you'll be pulling them out on a regular basis. And I have no desire to run cords under the sand and up the overflow end of the tank.
 
question about the closed loop system as i am looking into doing this in my new 600 gal center overflow tank, i was thinking of running 2 sumps one specifically for the main tank drains and one for the closed loop supply. this closed loop supply 2 1.5" drains would simply take in the tank water run it through floss or filter socks, it would also house the algae scrubber as for the pump return i was thinking 2 2" bulkheads in the return section of the sump that will connect up to 2 reeflo dart/snapper pumps, one for backup. the tank would have 6-8 1" closed loop returns with random flow generators or educators on them. i dont want any powerheads in the display. the main tank drain 1.5" will flow into its seperate sump and it will feed the 2 1" returns through the center overflow. any thoughts on my idea ?
 
What you’re describing is a two sump system with two return lines. A closed loop is a closed system, the water circulates through the pipes and pump and never hits a sump. That said, your idea would work but without the simplicity of the closed loop.
 
What you’re describing is a two sump system with two return lines. A closed loop is a closed system, the water circulates through the pipes and pump and never hits a sump. That said, your idea would work but without the simplicity of the closed loop.
you are correct, i was just wondering if it would work that way or better to just simply make it a true closed loop. i know it would be alot simpler and cheaper.
 
What you’re describing is a two sump system with two return lines. A closed loop is a closed system, the water circulates through the pipes and pump and never hits a sump. That said, your idea would work but without the simplicity of the closed loop.
most likely i am just overthinking this whole set up lol
 
3 - Efficiency - Am I willing to pay more to run the tank for the look? Propeller style power heads will more more water with less electricity. Am I willing to pay more for "hidden" flow?
I would be careful comparing the flow rates apples to apples. The way they both measure flow rates are not the same and highly favor the powerhead. When they measure a powerhead they do it one of two ways. Either by using the rpm and blade shape to estimate how much water it is moving. Or, by putting a measurement device in the water in front of the power head at different positions to measure the total water flow. Plumbed pumps are easier to measure because you can just sensor inline on the pipe to measure total flow through the pipe. This method doesn't calculate the total flow the closed loop will make though. As the water exits the pipe inside the tank, it creates an area of low pressure around the outlet of the pipe, sucking water from behind the pipe into the stream of water, adding to the overall water flow. Is it 10%, or 50%? I don't know but it is definitely more. Eductors and penductors are designed to optimized this phenomenon, but require you to have a much higher pressure pump than is typically used in this hobby. My point is that your closed loop will definitely produce more in tank flow than your calculated flow from the pump.
 
I would be careful comparing the flow rates apples to apples. The way they both measure flow rates are not the same and highly favor the powerhead. When they measure a powerhead they do it one of two ways. Either by using the rpm and blade shape to estimate how much water it is moving. Or, by putting a measurement device in the water in front of the power head at different positions to measure the total water flow. Plumbed pumps are easier to measure because you can just sensor inline on the pipe to measure total flow through the pipe. This method doesn't calculate the total flow the closed loop will make though. As the water exits the pipe inside the tank, it creates an area of low pressure around the outlet of the pipe, sucking water from behind the pipe into the stream of water, adding to the overall water flow. Is it 10%, or 50%? I don't know but it is definitely more. Eductors and penductors are designed to optimized this phenomenon, but require you to have a much higher pressure pump than is typically used in this hobby. My point is that your closed loop will definitely produce more in tank flow than your calculated flow from the pump.

Great point here. I would still suspect at the end of the day that the power head would move more water for less wattage. But it may not be a run away win for the power head.

At the end of the day, I went with a combination, closed loop and power heads. I believe they will compliment each other well. Stand should be here next week, but still waiting for my tank and sump...hopefully in May!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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