Pentair or Aqua Ultra UV?

Miller535 · Mar 31, 2020

Badilac said:
I wouldnt buy either of those honestly. I would buy the Lifegard Aquatics Pro-max UV. I highly suggest you read this 2 page thread where I post all my reasons. In short it is a better unit and more serviceable, lower yearly cost, better flexibility for mounting etc.

Can your UV sterilizer be too big?

I am currently setting up a Reefer 425XL (112 gallon total system volume) and would like to plumb in a UV sterilizer primarily as preventative for algae/bacteria/dinos but it would be great if it also prevented fish parasites. I have watched the BRS videos and read the threads I could find and...

www.reef2reef.com

This probably is a stupid question, but what is the pvc liner?

Badilac · Mar 31, 2020

Miller535 said:
This probably is a stupid question, but what is the pvc liner?

Not a stupid question. But all bodies of the sterilizers are made out of PVC and UV degrades the PVC over time. The higher end units like we are discussing in the thread resist UV light but they will all still break down / weaken over time. The Lifegard unit has PVC liners inside the PVC housing that are replaceable so you never have to worry about the actual body getting damaged from the UV. The other name brands do NOT have that and the UV light is actually in contact with the body instead of just a liner.

Hope this makes sense.

Ryan

Miller535 · Mar 31, 2020

Badilac said:
Not a stupid question. But all bodies of the sterilizers are made out of PVC and UV degrades the PVC over time. The higher end units like we are discussing in the thread resist UV light but they will all still break down / weaken over time. The Lifegard unit has PVC liners inside the PVC housing that are replaceable so you never have to worry about the actual body getting damaged from the UV. The other name brands do NOT have that and the UV light is actually in contact with the body instead of just a liner.

Hope this makes sense.

Ryan

That does make sense. 2" input and output is huge, I am assuming that you reduced the size down. What size did you reduce it to?

Badilac · Mar 31, 2020

Miller535 said:
That does make sense. 2" input and output is huge, I am assuming that you reduced the size down. What size did you reduce it to?

Yes you reduce it down. I have mine down 3/4". the bigger the housing the more contact time the water has with the UV. I wish I went with the 5" housing now. But yes the 2 inch fitting you just reduce down with a bushing. I can take a picture once I get home today.

Miller535 · Mar 31, 2020

Badilac said:
Yes you reduce it down. I have mine down 3/4". the bigger the housing the more contact time the water has with the UV. I wish I went with the 5" housing now. But yes the 2 inch fitting you just reduce down with a bushing. I can take a picture once I get home today.

Thanks, that would be great. Also curious how you mounted it.

Badilac · Mar 31, 2020

Miller535 said:
Thanks, that would be great. Also curious how you mounted it.

Excuse the mess. Busy replacing skimmer and chiller. I have 1” out of the pump into the uv and 3/4” out of uv returning directly into the DT. I have two returns on my tank so one is the output of the UV and the other return is the output of my chiller. So both chilled water and UV treated water goes straight back into the tank not sump.

fishybizzness · Mar 31, 2020

Flippers4pups said:
Depending on the way it's made, some units have a space between the inlet/exit fittings and the end of the housing. If mounted vertical, an air pocket can develop at the top exposing the quartz sleeve and bulb. This can cause heat to build up in this area. Though I've never had a quartz sleeve break, it will cause a heat discoloration in this area.

To avoid this as a precaution, (completely anecdotal on my part) I've always mounted mine horizontally with the inlet and exits facing up with units that exit on the side of the housing. If the unit enters and exits on the ends, can be mounted either way.

Edit: I've had both manufacturers and both are excellent choices. I'm currently running a Aqua UV unit. Along with the cost of the bulbs as a factor, consider the cost of a ballast as well if it goes out.

Never thought of that. Any pics of how yours is mounted for not only the benefit of the op, but for everyone following this thread. Great advice all around!

Miller535 · Mar 31, 2020

Badilac said:
Excuse the mess. Busy replacing skimmer and chiller. I have 1” out of the pump into the uv and 3/4” out of uv returning directly into the DT. I have two returns on my tank so one is the output of the UV and the other return is the output of my chiller. So both chilled water and UV treated water goes straight back into the tank not sump.

Thanks. Nice set up man

Mastiffsrule · Mar 31, 2020

Hello,

Can I throw my hat in? I am by no mean an expert, by I just put in Aqua 57. So here are my take always.

As always @Flippers4pups is on the mark. You can mount vertical, horizontal is best with fittings up. It will allow the air to hopefully purge from the tube, where vertically there may be a pocket at the top. Any air pocket can be an area of heat which can affect the life of the bulb or damage the sleeve.

The size of the unit affects contact time but flow does also. If you are running 1200 gph thru a 57 watt and 400 gallons thru a 25 watt they are affecting different organisms. So proper sizing and flow should be factored in. I like my Aqua 57 for my 180, good size, it had the 2 inch bulk head which also can be purchased with a 3/4 reducer barb fitting.

I did a lot of research. To be honest I think the Pentair was a bit better, but I found a crazy deal on the Aqua. In my opinion better to by oversized than under. Oversized you can adjust flow or reduce time, undersized you cannot increase power. I am not sure if I did it right, but I tried to get a unit that could get down to the 75-90k um range if I slowed flow into the low 400gph.

PilotOfSubmarines · Apr 1, 2020

I have the 57-watt Aqua UV on my 220 gallon and love it.

Badilac · Apr 1, 2020

I’ve had many UV’s over the years and this is what happens to the housings over time. See below pictures of a 360 watt unit I owned. Notice how you can actually see the UV light through the tubes because they have gotten so thin. You will also see how repairs had to be made because the tubes got so thin they started leaking. This is one of the reason why I like the replaceable sleeves on the Lifegard Pro-Max units. You don’t have to worry about the body breaking down over time.

Waters · Apr 1, 2020

Miller535 said:
Hmm, something to think about

@Waters, have you seen any discoloration in yours?

No, no discoloration at all....I actually clean and inspect the sleeve once a year. They actually tell you that you can mount it either way.

Badilac · Apr 1, 2020

I also did a little write up on UV's for those that would like a little more info.

UV Sterilizers, which to choose and why?

Ever since BRS did a video on UV's and QT I have seen a lot more people talking about UV's. Naturally most purchase what BRS pushes / sells which is fine and dandy (I also love BRS) but I suggest everyone do their research. When selecting the right UV you need to determine what it is that you...

humble.fish

Miller535 · Apr 1, 2020

Badilac said:
I also did a little write up on UV's for those that would like a little more info.

UV Sterilizers, which to choose and why?

Ever since BRS did a video on UV's and QT I have seen a lot more people talking about UV's. Naturally most purchase what BRS pushes / sells which is fine and dandy (I also love BRS) but I suggest everyone do their research. When selecting the right UV you need to determine what it is that you...

humble.fish

I read your write up. Say I go with the 55 watt version, I want to kill dino's and Algae (confirmed it on here last week with a microscope that mine go into water column), what flow rate would you recommend? I have a 1,300 gph Jaebo I was hoping to use. but the aquatic life only says max flow, not recommended flow.

Badilac · Apr 1, 2020

Miller535 said:
I read your write up. Say I go with the 55 watt version, I want to kill dino's and Algae (confirmed it on here last week with a microscope that mine go into water column), what flow rate would you recommend? I have a 1,300 gph Jaebo I was hoping to use. but the aquatic life only says max flow, not recommended flow.

The max flow rate is with a brand new bulb, typically the recommended flow is -20% of the max flow. That would put the recommended flow rate for the 55w at 1680gph, so it doesn’t look like the Jaebo you have will have enough flow for algae killing power.

Miller535 · Apr 2, 2020

Oddly being that this thread is called Pentair VS Aqua UV, I think I am going to the Lifegard Aquatics. Ultimately this decision is based mostly on form factor, I just do not have room for a large UV. Secondly price value definitely is a factor it's $125 cheaper then the Pentair, and $162 cheaper then the Aqua UV. Now my decision is between the 40 Watt and the 55 Watt..

Miller535 · Apr 2, 2020

@Badilac , I am not trying to be argumentative but just trying to understand. I realized after talking to you that it says MAX FLOW for Algae and bacteria is 2,100 gph. Which says to me that you can run it at lower flow and still kill bacteria and algae so long as you do not exceed 2100 gph. For instance, Pentair (40 watt) has both a recommended flow rate and a max, and it's a big range. Recommended at 943 gph and max 1574. Where as I think Lifegard is only listing the max affective flow rate for algae and bacteria. Am I wrong?

Badilac · Apr 2, 2020

Miller535 said:
Oddly being that this thread is called Pentair VS Aqua UV, I think I am going to the Lifegard Aquatics. Ultimately this decision is based mostly on form factor, I just do not have room for a large UV. Secondly price value definitely is a factor it's $125 cheaper then the Pentair, and $162 cheaper then the Aqua UV. Now my decision is between the 40 Watt and the 55 Watt..

What size tank do you have? I have not done a price comparison on the 40watt and 55watt units, So i'm not sure the of the price difference on parts but you may want to look at that also.

Miller535 · Apr 2, 2020

I have a 125 Gallon. What I am more trying to rap my mind around still is the flow.

I think thr 2100 gph is a max for algae bacteria not a recommended flow rate

Badilac · Apr 2, 2020

Miller535 said:
@Badilac , I am not trying to be argumentative but just trying to understand. I realized after talking to you that it says MAX FLOW for Algae and bacteria is 2,100 gph. Which says to me that you can run it at lower flow and still kill bacteria and algae so long as you do not exceed 2100 gph. For instance, Pentair (40 watt) has both a recommended flow rate and a max, and it's a big range. Recommended at 943 gph and max 1574. Where as I think Lifegard is only listing the max affective flow rate for algae and bacteria. Am I wrong?

Yeah I'm not sure on Pentair's math... They say max flow is at 100% bulb, 1574gph. They say recommended flo rate is based on 80% bulb, 943gph. But 1574gph minus 20% equals 1259gph so I don't know where the 943gph is coming from. Maybe I am not understanding their thinking???

You can run it with less flow but typically for algae you want to stay on the high turn over end of the spectrum. I honestly would recommend giving Lifegard a call and getting their input. Not sure how accessible the tech support team is during this times but I would give it a try.