Pentair UV 80w plumbing question
- Thread starter Gulrez
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piranhaman00
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You can keep it at 2" just pump through it the recommendation. If you know you have crpyto now, I would slow it down even more.
Gulrez
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per the pentair specs, they recommend around 400 to 500gph so i figured use Sicce 2.0 pump which is a 1inch fitting and hence thinking use reducer bushings-male thread to barb to plumb this beast.
BostonReefer300
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Not knowing your plumbing setup, I'll guess that you're not using 2" plumbing generally. I have a big system and my biggest pipes are 1". Years ago, I plumbed my pentair UV using 2" to 3/4" bushings for some stupid reason I don't remember and I've been annoyed with it ever since. Anyway, it works fine because I can control the flow rate by either a ball/gate valve and/or a DC pump. Some things I'd recommend:
1) even if you have a DC pump feeding it that you can control, still put a high quality ball or gate valve in front of the UV. Never hurts to have extra control and a back-up way to modulate flow if you ever need to put a regular pump on the UV.
2) put an in-line flow meter on the in or out plumbing of the UV. Having the correct flow is so important for a UV that it's worth the cost and hassle. When I had my UV as it's own closed loop in my sump, I'd check the exit flow using a cheap garden hose flow meter. Now that I'm going to plumb the UV as a bypass loop with one of my return pumps, I'm going to spring for the Apex in-line meter (despite the iffy reviews).
3) Use lots of union connectors because sometimes you may need to move the UV or re-plumb it temporarily to have a closed loop in your DT (in case of bad dinos)
4) Don't put hose barbs right on the bushings for the UV. I did this thinking I'd give myself plumbing flexibility. There's light leak from the UV into the plumbing (a few inches worth), so now I'm always worried that the UV is degrading my tubing. I wish I'd hard plumbed the UV and had union connectors.
5) Make sure you plan well and don't drink copious amounts of beer when you do the UV plumbing. Once you cement in whatever to the UV, that's what your stuck with.
Sorry for the long reply, but as you can tell, I don't want anyone to repeat my UV plumbing mistakes.
1) even if you have a DC pump feeding it that you can control, still put a high quality ball or gate valve in front of the UV. Never hurts to have extra control and a back-up way to modulate flow if you ever need to put a regular pump on the UV.
2) put an in-line flow meter on the in or out plumbing of the UV. Having the correct flow is so important for a UV that it's worth the cost and hassle. When I had my UV as it's own closed loop in my sump, I'd check the exit flow using a cheap garden hose flow meter. Now that I'm going to plumb the UV as a bypass loop with one of my return pumps, I'm going to spring for the Apex in-line meter (despite the iffy reviews).
3) Use lots of union connectors because sometimes you may need to move the UV or re-plumb it temporarily to have a closed loop in your DT (in case of bad dinos)
4) Don't put hose barbs right on the bushings for the UV. I did this thinking I'd give myself plumbing flexibility. There's light leak from the UV into the plumbing (a few inches worth), so now I'm always worried that the UV is degrading my tubing. I wish I'd hard plumbed the UV and had union connectors.
5) Make sure you plan well and don't drink copious amounts of beer when you do the UV plumbing. Once you cement in whatever to the UV, that's what your stuck with.
Sorry for the long reply, but as you can tell, I don't want anyone to repeat my UV plumbing mistakes.
Gulrez
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wow. you pretty much addressed my questions. thanks!! I plan on reducing it from 2 to an inch and then union to barb. will check out the apex in line flow meter... here goes more $$
