pH level help asap

[cmcoker]

Should I purchase another powerhead?

Did that powerhead come with an alternate propeller? If so, you may try putting it together in the alternate configuration, point it up to cause ripples on the surface.

You need an alkalinity kit, I like the red sea kits, but at this point an api would probably be ok to get an idea of your alkalinity.

Have you checked out the stickies on setting up?
https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?threads/138750/

You will probably need another powerhead at some point. Check out the Koralia series of powerheads, decent entry level powerheads, ime. These have a broader flow, where the one you have is more a jet stream and hard to direct.

You can also take some of your tank water in a container and put it outside with a air stone in it. (You could probably just stir it, if you don't have an air pump, though the Walmart sells a small battery powered one in the fishing tackle area for about $5. I keep these on hand for power outage). Let it run outside for half hour or so and then check the pH, see if it rises. Post back your results.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Well, at this point, I'd wait a bit more for a consensus before you spend the money.

All I know is that the number one way to increase pH is to reduce CO2, either by increasing gas exchange (water movement), and/or, decreasing nutrients/decay.

@Randy Holmes-Farley?

I wouldn't do anything special about the pH yet. It might be error and he might just need some alkalinity supplement.

 

[Bunnee911]

+1 for the Seachem Ammonia badge.

 

[Dunnman39]

These are the results from just now. I added crushed coral and did a water change last night. Are these tests okay? It looks like ammonia is still a little high..

 

[rmcaum]

Hold that ammonia tube up against the white back ground in some good lighting. It looks an awful lot like every API ammonia test I have done in the last two years. My tap water tests that color too. Keep testing every 12 hours or so and if it gets up to 1 ppm do a %50 water change for the fishes sake. If it is staying the same after a couple of days, it is a safe bet that the color you are seeing is your baseline zero.

 

[Dunnman39]

Hold that ammonia tube up against the white back ground in some good lighting. It looks an awful lot like every API ammonia test I have done in the last two years. My tap water tests that color too. Keep testing every 12 hours or so and if it gets up to 1 ppm do a %50 water change for the fishes sake. If it is staying the same after a couple of days, it is a safe bet that the color you are seeing is your baseline zero.

 

[rmcaum]

I hate to steer you in a bad direction, but I could go test my perfectly healthy three year old tank right now and it would look exactly like that. Keep an eye on your fish. I think those tests look almost perfect. I would be more concerned with the zero nitrates than the ph or ammonia. Did you ever see any nitrite or nitrate during your cycle? Of course you did do a water change which reduce any nitrate by some. I think you are on the right track. When my cycles have completed I was left with 10-20 ppm nitrate before any significant water changes. Good luck!

 

[Dunnman39]

I hate to steer you in a bad direction, but I could go test my perfectly healthy three year old tank right now and it would look exactly like that. Keep an eye on your fish. I think those tests look almost perfect. I would be more concerned with the zero nitrates than the ph or ammonia. Did you ever see any nitrite or nitrate during your cycle? Of course you did do a water change which reduce any nitrate by some. I think you are on the right track. When my cycles have completed I was left with 10-20 ppm nitrate before any significant water changes. Good luck!

If memory serves correctly then yes I remember seeing nitrate the other day. I believe 20ppm...I also thought nitrites were suppose to remain at 0 along with ammonia. I remember reading that nitrates aren't bad to have in a tank but many people prefer having them at 0 also....

 

[rmcaum]

I was just checking to see if you actually had a cycle. Yes, ammonia goes up, then nitrites go up while the ammonia goes down. Then nitrates go up while ammonia and nitrite recede to zero. You are correct that nitrates at low to medium levels are safe for fish. They can eventually and inevitably lead to algae and cause some less hardy species of corals stress. Again, sounds like your ammonia cycle and pH are doing great. Watch for any signs of stress to the fish and continue to check your ammonia levels for a couple of days to confirm that ammonia reading is in fact API's version of a zero.

 

[FlyinBryan]

Looking at your tubes, ammonia is a far bigger concern than is the pH. The tanks looks to have not finished cycling and the fish is in danger. I'd remove the fish, or at least get an ammonia binding product such as Prime or Amquel.

+100!!!!

If you can measure ammonia..you have too much!!!

Also, running kalk will do wonders! How much live rock do you have in tank?

Can we get pic of entire set including filtration?

 

[rmcaum]

I hope that you can tell Bryan didn't read the whole thread. Don't panic because of the exclamation points. You probably should own some amquel plus just in case. It is only for spot treatment, not for constant use. That means if you see it get above 0.5 ppm, treat the tank as recommended and then do a large water change (50%). Those api ammonia tests are stressful for everyone. That alert badge that someone mentioned is really cheap and can be effective. Probably cannot find one at the local fish store, so it isn't going to help much today. Good idea for quarantine tanks and such.

 

[Dunnman39]

I hope that you can tell Bryan didn't read the whole thread. Don't panic because of the exclamation points. You probably should own some amquel plus just in case. It is only for spot treatment, not for constant use. That means if you see it get above 0.5 ppm, treat the tank as recommended and then do a large water change (50%). Those api ammonia tests are stressful for everyone. That alert badge that someone mentioned is really cheap and can be effective. Probably cannot find one at the local fish store, so it isn't going to help much today. Good idea for quarantine tanks and such.

I just picked up seachem prime...would that work?

 

[rmcaum]

Yep.

 

[Dunnman39]

I just picked up seachem prime...would that work?

I just did a 25% WC two days ago. Should I do another?

 

[rmcaum]

No. There is really nothing to do right now unless you want to buy a different brand of ammonia test. Just keep your eye on everything and keep testing your ammonia to monitor for any difference. As noted, in my experience your test results are fine. It is never a bad idea to mixed saltwater on hand for emergency or quicker changes if something goes wrong. I suspect you are in the clear, but that is based on the fact that in my experience and according to multiple community threads, that api ammonia result looks like zero. Everyone else is telling you the truth too, ammonia is very harmful to fish and can quickly cause a chain reaction. Just don't over react based on the specific test results that you have showed us on this thread.