pH lowering..... Also high nitrates

[boboyo]

New reefer, cycle is done, threw in 2 clownfish over a week ago and started out overfeeding them the first 2 days until it came to me that I should turn off my powerhead during feeding.

anyway, ammonia is constantly at 0-0.25 (API test kit)
I've noticed that nitrITES keep rising and rising, any way to fix this? I'm a self declared colourblind and it looks like the 2.0ppm and 5.0ppm are the exact same colour to me... The colour I got today (once in the morning and once at night) isnt even on the test colour list, its more bright pinkish than anything else...
Is it safe to drop a small amount of CuC? As i got my lights 2 days ago and I like it when theyre on but dont want an algae outbreak


My pH has also been very slowly dropping ever since I started testing and I feel like it's been accelerated in the last 2 days. I started out at 8 when I got the tank, slowly dropping to a lighter colour every week but these last 2 days I feel like its been accelerated... Any way to fix this? Should I turn the lights on more often or less often? My LFS says not to worry since I got plenty of rock and sand (aragonite). It looks like a 7.8 pH now but its getting lighter and lighter.


Nitrates are under control, they were almost 40ppm before my 1st water change and now theyre in the slightly under 20ppm range since the water change 2 days ago.

 

[Gtinnel]

The API test kit is notorious for reading ammonia as .25, if it isn't higher than that it's safe to assume your ammonia is at 0.

As for the lights I would go ahead and turn them on for the same amount that you will normally have them on each day. With a new tank you are going to go through certain algea stages, there isn't any good way to avoid it.

A pH of 7.8 isn't anything to get worried about. In most tanks the pH will be higher whenever the lights are on. I'm not positive on the exact reason but I believe that as algea (and maybe corals but I'm not sure) use the light to produce "food" they absorb carbon dioxide from the water which less carbon dioxide equals a higher pH. That's why most people who have a refugium growing macroalgea run them at night to reduce the effects of the lowered pH at night time.

 

[boboyo]

The API test kit is notorious for reading ammonia as .25, if it isn't higher than that it's safe to assume your ammonia is at 0.

As for the lights I would go ahead and turn them on for the same amount that you will normally have them on each day. With a new tank you are going to go through certain algea stages, there isn't any good way to avoid it.

A pH of 7.8 isn't anything to get worried about. In most tanks the pH will be higher whenever the lights are on. I'm not positive on the exact reason but I believe that as algea (and maybe corals but I'm not sure) use the light to produce "food" they absorb carbon dioxide from the water which less carbon dioxide equals a higher pH. That's why most people who have a refugium growing macroalgea run them at night to reduce the effects of the lowered pH at night time.

The problem is that my pH was higher this morning before I turned on the lights for 10+ hours (I really wanted to do this test and see for myself how lights affect ph). Visibly lower than 7.8 compared to exactly 7.8 this morning before turning on lights. I'm just slightly panicked it will keep going lower and lower

 

[boboyo]

****** Correction to the title *****

High nitrites not nitrates. Like they seem to be crazy high

 

[Gtinnel]

High nitrites not nitrates. Like they seem to be crazy high

That is a considerably different issue than high nitrates. If it were me I would recommend getting a bottle of bacteria that many people us to start cycling a tank to add to the tank. That would help increase the bacteria in the tank that will convert nitrites to nitrates.

The bacteria will grow on their own without using the bottled bacteria, but the high nitrites can be hard on your fish while the bacteria grow naturally.

 

[boboyo]

That is a considerably different issue than high nitrates. If it were me I would recommend getting a bottle of bacteria that many people us to start cycling a tank to add to the tank. That would help increase the bacteria in the tank that will convert nitrites to nitrates.

The bacteria will grow on their own without using the bottled bacteria, but the high nitrites can be hard on your fish while the bacteria grow naturally.

I started using the rest of my aquavitro seed to try and speed up the process. (after 5 days of not using it thinking ill be ok. It seems to be only nitrifying bacteria and not much of the ones that turn trites into trates.


For pH I guess I just go with it? I know clowns are sturdy but the internet says 7.8-8.4ph... I'm scared if lower than 7.8 will kill them... At this rate ill be at 7.6 within 3 days (Ive been writing down my results since i started testing)

 

[Gtinnel]

It seems to be only nitrifying bacteria and not much of the ones that turn trites into trates.

I may be wrong but I believe nitrifying bacteria performs both processes of converting ammonia to nitrite and nitrite to nitrate, although I'm unfamiliar with that specific product.

As for pH it fluctuates throughout the day on every tank, don't think of it as something that gets used up and just decreases. A lowered pH in a tank is often attributed to excess CO2 in the tank. Getting more surface agitation along with more oxygen in your house from a open window (probably not much of an option in the winter depending on where you live) will likely increase pH. Also if you use a protein skimmer pulling in outside air to the air intake or drawing your air through a CO2 scrubber will often increase pH. There are chemicals that can be added to the tank to increase pH but I believe they are all a short term solution and not a good option in my opinion to control pH.

 

[jpbeen]

New reefer, cycle is done, threw in 2 clownfish over a week ago and started out overfeeding them the first 2 days until it came to me that I should turn off my powerhead during feeding.

anyway, ammonia is constantly at 0-0.25 (API test kit)
I've noticed that nitrITES keep rising and rising, any way to fix this? I'm a self declared colourblind and it looks like the 2.0ppm and 5.0ppm are the exact same colour to me... The colour I got today (once in the morning and once at night) isnt even on the test colour list, its more bright pinkish than anything else...
Is it safe to drop a small amount of CuC? As i got my lights 2 days ago and I like it when theyre on but dont want an algae outbreak


My pH has also been very slowly dropping ever since I started testing and I feel like it's been accelerated in the last 2 days. I started out at 8 when I got the tank, slowly dropping to a lighter colour every week but these last 2 days I feel like its been accelerated... Any way to fix this? Should I turn the lights on more often or less often? My LFS says not to worry since I got plenty of rock and sand (aragonite). It looks like a 7.8 pH now but its getting lighter and lighter.


Nitrates are under control, they were almost 40ppm before my 1st water change and now theyre in the slightly under 20ppm range since the water change 2 days ago.

I am color blind and the API tests just aren't that accurate. Invest in Hanna testers and you will get more accurate easier to read tests. I did and wish I did sooner.