PH stability

eqbal9947

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Helloo everyone.
I am cycling my tank and am having a hard time getting PH to 8.3.
I bought seachem buffer and basically emptied the whole thing into my waterbox 220.6 and still at PH of 8.0
I dont think its a huge problem right now, but what should I use as a newbie day to day for when my fish are ready to be put in the DT.
I know Kalk is what most people use but is it newbie friendly?
I have redsea dosing pumps with the 4 heads.
Thanks!

Also, Why does my Hanna PH meter read RODI at like 9 PH. I know its wrong because i have test strips and they show a reading that is logically more accurate(I have calibrated 2 times and usually once every 2 weeks)
 
Last edited:
Helloo everyone.
I am cycling my tank and am having a hard time getting PH to 8.3.
I bought seachem buffer and basically emptied the whole thing into my waterbox 220.6 and still at PH of 8.0
I dont think its a huge problem right now, but what should I use as a newbie day to day for when my fish are ready to be put in the DT.
I know Kalk is what most people use but is it newbie friendly?
I have redsea dosing pumps with the 4 heads.
Thanks!

Also, Why does my Hanna PH meter read RODI at like 9 PH. I know its wrong because i have test strips and they show a reading that is logically more accurate(I have calibrated 2 times and usually once every 2 weeks)
Now you’ve added that stuff, you’ll probably find your Alkalinity has gone high. Probably not much of a problem when cycling but you will need to get that under control if you add corals. You don’t need to get pH to 8.3, especially when the tank is young. Ive added a link for an article from Randy Holmes Farley. RODI is difficult to test for pH, and as long as the TDS is zero, it’s a pretty pointless endeavour.

 
Now you’ve added that stuff, you’ll probably find your Alkalinity has gone high. Probably not much of a problem when cycling but you will need to get that under control if you add corals. You don’t need to get pH to 8.3, especially when the tank is young. Ive added a link for an article from Randy Holmes Farley. RODI is difficult to test for pH, and as long as the TDS is zero, it’s a pretty pointless endeavour.

I wont be adding corals for awhile. prob 3-4 months.
 
Never add any chemical just to boost pH. Every one of them is an alkalinity supplement. Only add as much of them as you need alkalinity. As noted above, you will probably need to do water changes after cycling to bring alk down.

FWIW, Seachem Marine Buffer (assuming that is what you used) is among the worst materials to raise pH when adding alkalinity as it has very little pH boost per unit of alkalinity added.
 
Don’t go crazy chasing your ph. Just keep the tank stable. If you want to raise ph you can try to bring fresh air in Via a protein skimmer. Never use buffers to raise your ph.
 
This is from an intermediate to a "newbie"

you are fine with 7.9 to 8 right now and where you want to be for the next long while. Cycling and fish and early soft and LPS corals will be just fine there.

It is easy to follow the ideal 8.3 story, but that is really for sustained SPS coral growth.

I have several bottles of additives on my shelf I bought in the first months trying to make my tank perfect. And they are now on the backs of the shelves gathering dust.

The tank will take on a life of its own and you will help it get there, but you cannot force it.

This will come with time - promise.

I have two "sister" tanks tanks, different proportions but all the same water and supplements -

One runs 8.4 dkh and 7.9 to 8.1 pH and the larger tank 10.2 dkh and 8.2 to 8.3 pH

They both grow SPS well

Just work now on establishing some consistency, get through the uglies, try to get so coraline, (then learn to scape it) and little by little add some diversity to your "in a box ecosphere"

and in a month or 2 Kalk from a separate container (not in the ATO) not made to a slurry and daily dosing with a pipette or a Kamoer is pretty straight forward.

Best of luck
 
pH in a marine aquarium basically has two components:

1. CO2 concentration in the surrounding air
2. Alkalinity

And #1 is by far the dominant factor. If you want higher pH, you need lower CO2 in the house, or you need to run a line outside for your skimmer.
 
pH in a marine aquarium basically has two components:

1. CO2 concentration in the surrounding air
2. Alkalinity

And #1 is by far the dominant factor. If you want higher pH, you need lower CO2 in the house, or you need to run a line outside for your skimmer.
ditto this, a cheap CO2 monitor from Amazon will give you a number you can indeed work on with air exchanges to your room etc hoses to skimmers etc.
but don't hold your breath while watching the tank (smile)
 

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