Philips CoralCare LED - Let the Testing Begin!

Dr. Dendrostein · Jun 13, 2020

lexinverts said:
15 pounds of weight per fixture. Yikes! This fixture will require some creative mounting with that much weight.

We have refrigerant tanks that weight that much...

CoralVue_Marketing · Jun 13, 2020

Dr. Dendrostein said:
We have refrigerant tanks that weight that much...

Unrelated to weight, but more to the general build quality... I asked Philips on Thursday if they'll let us film a time-lapse video where we shoot the light with water to see how long it takes until it stops working. At first, I think they thought I was joking. By the end of the conversation, it seemed like they were actually coming around on the idea! I just feel like we can proclaim it has an IP65 rating all day every day, but seeing is believing! One simple video would be a lot more effective--and persuasive, too! We could easily recreate the IP65 test. But I have heard multiple stories of these lights being completely submerged for several minutes, so I don't think the constant spray is going to do much (hence the time-lapse idea). If they say yes... next step: shoot other high-end LED aquarium lights until they fail!

Dr. Dendrostein · Jun 13, 2020

Jeff@CoralVue said:
Unrelated to weight, but more to the general build quality... I asked Philips on Thursday if they'll let us film a time-lapse video where we shoot the light with water to see how long it takes until it stops working. At first, I think they thought I was joking. By the end of the conversation, it seemed like they were actually coming around on the idea! I just feel like we can proclaim it has an IP65 rating all day every day, but seeing is believing! One simple video would be a lot more effective--and persuasive, too! We could easily recreate the IP65 test. But I have heard multiple stories of these lights being completely submerged for several minutes, so I don't think the constant spray is going to do much (hence the time-lapse idea). If they say yes... next step: shoot other high-end LED aquarium lights until they fail!

As you know, picture is worth a thousand words, so video would be big help

ingchr1 · Jun 13, 2020

Jeff@CoralVue said:
..But I have heard multiple stories of these lights being completely submerged for several minutes..

What are people doing with their lights that multiple ones have already ended up in the water?

Snoopy 67 · Jun 13, 2020

Murphy's Law

Kyl · Jun 13, 2020

ingchr1 said:
What are people doing with their lights that multiple ones have already ended up in the water?

Being very lax with mounting them properly.

Toky916 · Jun 13, 2020

I’ve never had an issue with any lights and water.
what is the max par with only blues on ?

NeverlosT · Jun 13, 2020

Jeff@CoralVue said:
Unrelated to weight, but more to the general build quality... I asked Philips on Thursday if they'll let us film a time-lapse video where we shoot the light with water to see how long it takes until it stops working. At first, I think they thought I was joking. By the end of the conversation, it seemed like they were actually coming around on the idea! I just feel like we can proclaim it has an IP65 rating all day every day, but seeing is believing! One simple video would be a lot more effective--and persuasive, too! We could easily recreate the IP65 test. But I have heard multiple stories of these lights being completely submerged for several minutes, so I don't think the constant spray is going to do much (hence the time-lapse idea). If they say yes... next step: shoot other high-end LED aquarium lights until they fail!

We can save Phillip's time here, my buddy had one fall in his tank for minutes and it emerged functioning just fine. Fair to say, probably the most waterproof light out there currently.

CoralVue_Marketing · Jun 14, 2020

ingchr1 said:
What are people doing with their lights that multiple ones have already ended up in the water?

I only know the specifics of @Scubabum's story:

"OK. LONG STORY: Mishap might not be the correct word. More like DISASTER. lol. I was doing some wire management and the little lock nut shown with the red arrow was not tight enough and the T5 fixture tilted sending the Right Philips LED right off the T5 fixture, through my screen top and broke all my acros off the top of my scape on the right hand side. The LED was completely submerged in the water for approximately 8 minutes while I was screaming at the top of my lungs at 5am for my wife's assistance. The Philips CoralCare is IP65 rated and this was not in the plans to test. I immediately opened the entire Philips Led to inspect water damage and was pleasantly surprised to not see a single drop of water. I rinsed off the outside of the fixture and plugged it back in and it resumed the normal schedule like nothing ever happened. Don't know of any other LED light that would have survived this Nightmare. So let's just say Waterproofing test PASSED!!!!!!!!"

I can probably chase down those other stories if you're really curious.

Unrelated to Philips, just lights taking a bath... I'd been running a couple of LED lights on tank mounts for the past 5 years over my tank without any issues. I had pushed them to the back of the tank during a water change, not on the tank mounts, but just kind of balancing on the sides of the tank. I knocked one in, of course. Even though I pulled it out right away, it was toast. Thankfully, I am moving into a new aquarium anyway, so as far as timing goes, I guess it couldn't have happened at a better one.

User1 · Jun 27, 2020

Question - has any of the testers connected the lights to an Apex? If so, how was it done and how do you handle two or more units?

I'm curious how this is going to work, what is required, and how it looks with regards to wires and the possibility of extra components to make it work. Whew - run on sentence

. I'm considering a change if it can provide me with my needs to an Apex or Reef Angel controller and cleans up power supplies and bricks.

oreo54 · Jun 27, 2020

saf1 said:
Question - has any of the testers connected the lights to an Apex? If so, how was it done and how do you handle two or more units?

I'm curious how this is going to work, what is required, and how it looks with regards to wires and the possibility of extra components to make it work. Whew - run on sentence . I'm considering a change if it can provide me with my needs to an Apex or Reef Angel controller and cleans up power supplies and bricks.

Well pretty sure they said AC/DC conversion is in the light so no bricks..BUT..
not seeing an AC "pass through" nor daisy chaining control..

Philips CoralCare 2018: PAR measured with the new DaniReef LAB method

The first time we saw the new Philips CoralCare was at Interzoo 2016; we immediately liked it and we have been lucky to be able to have one in our aquarium. At

reefs.com

So each light will have 2 wires coming from them.
All dimming (APEX or otherwise) is handled via the "seperate box" I think so all wires go there..

On test: Philips CoralCare Luminaire and Controller

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

Screen%20Shot%202017-03-14%20at%2011.49.49.png

User1 · Jun 27, 2020

oreo5457 said:
Well pretty sure they said AC/DC conversion is in the light so no bricks..BUT..
not seeing an AC "pass through" nor daisy chaining control..

Philips CoralCare 2018: PAR measured with the new DaniReef LAB method

The first time we saw the new Philips CoralCare was at Interzoo 2016; we immediately liked it and we have been lucky to be able to have one in our aquarium. At

reefs.com

So each light will have 2 wires coming from them.
All dimming (APEX or otherwise) is handled via the "seperate box" I think so all wires go there..

On test: Philips CoralCare Luminaire and Controller

www.practicalfishkeeping.co.uk

Thanks. I'm trying to envision what this is going to look like and wire management

. The image you posted shows a RJ45 on one end with wires on the other. So maybe it will be a clean setup and no converter necessary. I'm really making an effort to reduce power bricks at all cost.

Edit: The unit / light connects to the box. Lights are not connected together such as Kessil does or in series?

oreo54 · Jun 27, 2020

saf1 said:
Thanks. I'm trying to envision what this is going to look like and wire management . The image you posted shows a RJ45 on one end with wires on the other. So maybe it will be a clean setup and no converter necessary. I'm really making an effort to reduce power bricks at all cost.

Edit: The unit / light connects to the box. Lights are not connected together such as Kessil does or in series?

Labelled 1 through 4 so each light has a seperate control cable from the head to the box.
And yes just a plug from each no bricks..

Coming off the tank 4 cords ( 2 'thick" (ac) 2 thin (control) 2 lights 4 lights 8 cords..
no bricks..

Looks like small computer plugs (like fans) go into the controller .
Same w/ USB cord or Apex.

Assuming they are not for the fans you can see the 4 cords right under the far right fan

Philips CoralCare 2018: PAR measured with the new DaniReef LAB method

The first time we saw the new Philips CoralCare was at Interzoo 2016; we immediately liked it and we have been lucky to be able to have one in our aquarium. At

reefs.com

Can't fast post the image..2nd one down.

not seeing a rj45..

Controller has ch1-4 on one side (from lights) ch1,G,ch2,g on other side for ancillary dimming.
USB.. err not sure about that one.
Here it is.. reading helps..

A USB cable is plugged into the Controller via a five-pin fitting — fiddly, but once in, it doesn’t need to be removed. Plug the Controller into the computer’s USB slot, install the driver for the controller (‘CoralCare Virtual Com’), and you’re set.

OK ONE more wire w/ brick or wall wart.
assume 5v variety.

Once the Controller is programmed, the USB can be removed from the computer and plugged into a wall socket using the supplied adaptor.

User1 · Jun 27, 2020

oreo5457 said:
Labelled 1 through 4 so each light has a seperate control cable from the head to the box.
And yes just a plug from each no bricks..

Coming off the tank 4 cords ( 2 'thick" (ac) 2 thin (control) 2 lights 4 lights 8 cords..
no bricks..

Looks like small computer plugs (like fans) go into the controller .
Same w/ USB cord or Apex.

Assuming they are not for the fans you can see the 4 cords right under the far right fan

Philips CoralCare 2018: PAR measured with the new DaniReef LAB method

The first time we saw the new Philips CoralCare was at Interzoo 2016; we immediately liked it and we have been lucky to be able to have one in our aquarium. At

reefs.com

Can't fast post the image..2nd one down.

not seeing a rj45..

Controller has ch1-4 on one side (from lights) ch1,G,ch2,g on other side for ancillary dimming.
USB.. err not sure about that one.
Here it is.. reading helps..

OK ONE more wire w/ brick or wall wart.
assume 5v variety.

So no converter needed in between? If so that could be a good thing for me as no additional boxes or converts in between are necessary.

oreo54 · Jun 27, 2020

saf1 said:
So no converter needed in between? If so that could be a good thing for me as no additional boxes or converts in between are necessary.

Not sure of the "end" connector in the controller has the correct one for apex but the wiring is simple.

Well that does pose a question..
Most 0-10V dimming requires a REAL shutoff so lights need to be plugged into the "relay box thingy"?..

In other words which "protocol" will "dim to zero" so to speak if you get my drift.

Secondly if the controller loses power (and not using Apex or other 3rd party), how long till it forgets it?

User1 · Jun 27, 2020

oreo5457 said:
Not sure of the "end" connector in the controller has the correct one for apex but the wiring is simple.

Well that does pose a question..
Most 0-10V dimming requires a REAL shutoff so lights need to be plugged into the "relay box thingy"?..

In other words which "protocol" will "dim to zero" so to speak if you get my drift.

Secondly if the controller loses power (and not using Apex or other 3rd party), how long till it forgets it?

Good point. I know with my DIY chips I would plug the power supply to the RA's relays or the Apex energy bar. That will get you the on / off as you pointed out. Dimming to 0 is interesting and not sure how these lights are going to work. Part of why I'm asking all these questions

Thanks for your help and input.

fishead · Jul 1, 2020

Why so white heavy? Think I'll wait for the Gen 2 Blue.

Bpb · Jul 1, 2020

fishead said:
Why so white heavy? Think I'll wait for the Gen 2 Blue.

I don’t imagine that’ll ever be a thing. It’s a European light. They tend to favor more of a daylight aesthetic over there.

fishead · Jul 2, 2020

Bpb said:
I don’t imagine that’ll ever be a thing. It’s a European light. They tend to favor more of a daylight aesthetic over there.

True. But if they want a chunk of the rest of the world market they might want to consider it.

Graffiti Spot · Jul 2, 2020

Pretty sure the United States is the main place to find tanks that use mostly blue light during their peak schedule. Everywhere else reefers mostly use whiter spectrums so I don’t think they care to corner a market that’s already saturated with blue led fixture options. I would dare to think that everywhere but the USA, most reefers understand the advantages of using a more white spectrum.