PhosGuard - Positive Experience So Far - What do you use?

[ihavecrabs]

So, I read the directions on how to use PhosGuard and was SKEPTICAL! It stated the amount you needed to dose either in a reactor or a media back, rinse first, etc.. Now it came to the testing and what to expect..

The directions stated that it would remove Phosphate down to .02 (the exact level I was opting for) and no lower. Test periodically and when Phosphates started rising again, the media was exhausted and to replace it.

So my corals are in QT and I needed an easy way to remove phosphate, so I gave it a go.. I tested every 24 hours.

I started at 35ppb Phosphorus (0.107 ppm Phosphate) and added the directed amount to a media bag in decent flow.

24 hours later.. 14ppb Phosphorus (0.043 ppm Phosphate)

48 hours since original dose.. 8ppb Phosphorus (0.024 ppm Phosphate).

It has hovered between 6-8ppm and is well within the range or error on the Hanna ULR. I'm amazed that this product is so accurate to the point it is saturated and needs to be replaced.

What does everyone else use to lower Phosphate and what is their experience in using it to keep within a moderately tight range .02-.04 for example?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

While I'm not convinced by the idea that it cannot lower phosphate "too much", aluminum oxide media (Phosguard, Kent Phosphate Sponge, other brands) do work well to bind phosphate and silicate.

One concern with Phosguard is release of aluminum, which has a long history of potentially impacting leather corals. If you do not use very much, do not have leathers, or do not see such issues, then it is likely fine to use.

GFO (granular ferric oxide) is an alternate product for binding phosphate which also works well.

 

[Potatohead]

I like aluminum oxide more than GFO personally. It's a lot easier to use in a reactor, doesn't need to tumble, etc.

 

[cgdcinc]

Phosgaurd has worked well for me too. I add some to my Seachem Seagel that I run in a reactor. Change it out every 2 months or so. Pack it so it won’t tumble. Love Seachem products.

 

[Dogtown]

These media’s work but have to be replaced. I’d rather invest in a good mutual fund or buy more makers mark. Be sure to look into natural methods of PO4 reduction, like a refugium. If nothing else, it will cut down on how often you have to replace your media. Glad to see it’s working well for you.

 

[ihavecrabs]

While I'm not convinced by the idea that it cannot lower phosphate "too much", aluminum oxide media (Phosguard, Kent Phosphate Sponge, other brands) do work well to bind phosphate and silicate.

One concern with Phosguard is release of aluminum, which has a long history of potentially impacting leather corals. If you do not use very much, do not have leathers, or do not see such issues, then it is likely fine to use.

GFO (granular ferric oxide) is an alternate product for binding phosphate which also works well.

Hey Randy,

One thing I never really understood (or chose to research at the time) with GFO was how to maintain stable PO4 while using the product? Is it in the amount you add to the reactor or how fast you push through water?

Thanks!

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Love Seachem products.

All of them? Some are really poor design, IMO.

Seachem Reef Calcium?

Does it provide alkalinity? if so, how much? No one can say, unfortunately, not even Seachem.

It's writeup is even worse.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

Hey Randy,

One thing I never really understood (or chose to research at the time) with GFO was how to maintain stable PO4 while using the product? Is it in the amount you add to the reactor or how fast you push through water?

Thanks!

It's essentially the same with any binding media (phosguard, GFO, etc.): Adjust the amount used and the way you use it (which can include flow rate and how often you replace it) based on what you want it to accomplish (maintain phosphate at about the level you are at vs lowering it substantially).

FWIW, with any of these media, the "capacity" depends strongly on the amount of phosphate in the water. So it will bind a lot more at 0.2 ppm than at 0.02 ppm. So there is a lot of trial and error involved in getting levels right if you are very concerned about maintaining a particular level.

 

[ihavecrabs]

It's essentially the same with any binding media (phosguard, GFO, etc.): Adjust the amount used and the way you use it (which can include flow rate and how often you replace it) based on what you want it to accomplish (maintain phosphate at about the level you are at vs lowering it substantially).

FWIW, with any of these media, the "capacity" depends strongly on the amount of phosphate in the water. So it will bind a lot more at 0.2 ppm than at 0.02 ppm. So there is a lot of trial and error involved in getting levels right if you are very concerned about maintaining a particular level.

Sounds good. It looks like maybe my success this time around may be more related to testing and focus than the product choice [emoji16]

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

FWIW, one of the biggest advantages of Phosguard and other brands of aluminum oxide is the large particle size. That makes it easier to use in media bag applications.

It also doesn't seem the induce the precipitation of calcium carbonate the way the iron in GFO does. That, combined with the large particle size, means there's no need to tumble it.

 

[Isaac Alves]

With Phosguard, if you are religious with changing it as you need to, or renergizing, will you risk releasing aluminum? Or does it potentially release aluminum as soon as it is submerged?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

With Phosguard, if you are religious with changing it as you need to, or renergizing, will you risk releasing aluminum? Or does it potentially release aluminum as soon as it is submerged?

If anything, there's likely to be more release when it is first added.

You are regenerating it? How?

 

[Isaac Alves]

If anything, there's likely to be more release when it is first added.

You are regenerating it? How?

I had a brain fail. I got PhosGuard confused with Purigen. I don't use Purigen.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

No problem. Purigen wouldn't have any aluminum issues and seems to be a good product, IMO.

 

[ihavecrabs]

FWIW, with any of these media, the "capacity" depends strongly on the amount of phosphate in the water. So it will bind a lot more at 0.2 ppm than at 0.02 ppm. So there is a lot of trial and error involved in getting levels right if you are very concerned about maintaining a particular level.

So the numbers did drop below .02 so I pulled the bag temporarily to not starve out my frags.

Trial and error it is!

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley Verified Community Expert]

So the numbers did drop below .02 so I pulled the bag temporarily to not starve out my frags.

Trial and error it is!

As are so many things in reefkeeping. That's what makes it more fun than stamp collecting.

 

[ihavecrabs]

As are so many things in reefkeeping. That's what makes it more fun than stamp collecting.

Ain't that the truth

 

[McPikie]

I'm thinking of switching out my ROWA for Phosguard this time around, just for a bit of a change up. I have both in plenty, so I have the option that this will not cost me anything. I took my ROWA reactor offline over a week ago because my cheato was going pale, so I assume the gfo was removing more than I needed. In addition, I was running 180ml on a 225l tank, which I now believe is 3 times more than required (I really should read the instructions)

I will do a hanna check tonight on the tank to see what the P04 level is and go from there. But I am thinking, as it does not need to tumble, just putting Phosguard in a bag in the return section, and saving a pump being plugged into a reactor, or should I jam it in a bag down the baffle before the return, or wll the water just run around it?

 

[Quiverfull]

I know this is an old thread but I am interested in the discussion to lower my phosphate level...
Background: Restarting a standard 120g (BB/skimmer) that was neglected for several years. Using the live rock I have had for 15+ years (original Figi). Last time tank was doing well, it was SPS dominant and had no issues for many years. Tank was left on it's own other than very few water changes over the years. became a algae jungle and all SPS died. About 6 weeks ago, did a total take down and live rock scrub, 100% water change. Had minor algae bloom but snails took care of that in about 4 days. Nitrates are 0 but my phosphate is 0.5ppm and will not budge. Tested my salt mix - 0 Phosphate. I suspect it is my live rock leaching PO4. Tank will be all SPS and I have one test frag with great polyp extension but not coloring up well.

I have been religious about weekly 10% changes (I know this probably is not enough water volume to make any difference). Options:

1. GFO (I have an old PhosBan 150 reactor I could set up).
2. Kent Phosphate sponge (I have jar that is about 10 years old - not sure if it is still good).
3. Set up a Chaeto reactor in my sump.
4. 50% water changes until it comes down (ugh).

Would appreciate your opinion.

Greg

 

[vetteguy53081]

I love Phosguard but problem is that it Binds the Phos and if not or removed or changed timely can release it. I now use ChemiPure elite for phos removal and nitrate control. It works very well BUT be sure to change that every 3 months.