Ok got a 150dt which looks fine as wine. Phos testing high between 1-3 using salifert kit. Notice a few random spots of hair algee forming. I have an army of turbos about 17 and several other snails. Anyway, went with phosphate E. Been dosing about 1 week now SLOWLY and phos has not move up or down. My food is northfin marine pellets, northfin krill pellets in the morning, some nori an two mussels for lunch and two cubes of pemysis in the evening. The food is eaten quick cause amo is at 0, so I'm thinking I need to leave my phos alot since the tank seems to look wonderful, but why is the phos E not pulling it down? I would like to be at .5-1 instead of 1-3. To help with the spots of alhee I'm seeing. Working from home I have alot of time to look at my tank, maybe too much. Lol
Phosphate E by brightwell seems to do nkthing why?
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Rjmul
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if you're messing around with lanthinum chloride I would really suggest you get the Hanna phosphate checker.
I've been at this for just a little while and I used to scoff at people telling me to buy more expensive stuff, but in this instance you need it. That salifert test kit is very hard to read with the accuracy you need to be messing around with lanthinum chloride.
after watching Richard Ross on reef bum earlier this week, I might have to agree with him that algae free tanks are only algae free because of algae grazers. Not because of nutrients.
I've been at this for just a little while and I used to scoff at people telling me to buy more expensive stuff, but in this instance you need it. That salifert test kit is very hard to read with the accuracy you need to be messing around with lanthinum chloride.
after watching Richard Ross on reef bum earlier this week, I might have to agree with him that algae free tanks are only algae free because of algae grazers. Not because of nutrients.
Rjmul
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PS....
I know a guy with a HUGE retail operation (recently famous) that recently crashed his entire system because he woke up one day and decided he wanted lower phosphates for no reason in particular.
Started dosing all sorts of stuff and doing aggressive water changes, basically for no reason.
sometimes the best thing you can do is nothing.
if your LFS still has one, go treat yourself to a kole tang while they're still available.
I know a guy with a HUGE retail operation (recently famous) that recently crashed his entire system because he woke up one day and decided he wanted lower phosphates for no reason in particular.
Started dosing all sorts of stuff and doing aggressive water changes, basically for no reason.
sometimes the best thing you can do is nothing.
if your LFS still has one, go treat yourself to a kole tang while they're still available.
Frogspon
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Whats your water source looking like? Could be bad R/O water. Or where your SW is coming from.
Keep testing, and move SLOW. Don't always trust the Hannas either. Several LFS employees have steered me away from them for personal inaccuracy.
Keep testing, and move SLOW. Don't always trust the Hannas either. Several LFS employees have steered me away from them for personal inaccuracy.
schuby
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Your cause-and-effect statement that food is eaten quickly because ammonia is 0 is false. Ammonia of zero just means that the bacteria responsible for converting ammonia to nitrite has an adequate population (and it's one of the fastest multiplying bacteria). You list a large amount of food each day. I suspect you are way over-feeding.
No matter. If you tank looks good, don't chase numbers. Lanthanum chloride can drop phosphate to zero very easily and very fast. Zero phosphate or zero nitrate leads to bad places for a saltwater tank.
No matter. If you tank looks good, don't chase numbers. Lanthanum chloride can drop phosphate to zero very easily and very fast. Zero phosphate or zero nitrate leads to bad places for a saltwater tank.
