Phosphate lowering questions

[BlueDevil]

Using acid on otherwise clean/new rock just never made sense to me because its only dissolving calcium carbonate. Right?

How 'clean' is clean/new rock? I guess that's the million dollar question. I had read too many horror stories about Pukani leaching PO4 forever to take that chance. Maybe you got lucky? Even 'new' rock could be dead rock that was living at one point. In fact BRS in their product description recommends treating it before adding to the aquarium.

The way I looked at it, with all the work I do in this hobby to maintain and safeguard my tank, what's a 15 minute chore of a muriatic acid bath? I guess I'm a little more risk averse [emoji4]

 

[Steve Dillon]

I used dry reef rock. Bought a box and a half. My ph has always been above 8 per drop test. Apex standard ph probe has always measured a little lower 7.8- 7.9 but I had issues calibrating it so I don't really trust it.

 

[Chriscrna]

Using acid on otherwise clean/new rock just never made sense to me because its only dissolving calcium carbonate. Right?

I started with dry rock as well. After thoroughly researching this topic during my build, I opted to put it through an acid bath. And here's why:

"The only methods to remove phosphate that is bound into CaCO3 is to quickly dissolve away the outer layer of rock using acid, or to slowly allow the phosphate to come off into water that has low phosphate levels. If choosing the latter, note that you will not remove other undesirable stuff (like organics) and you will need to keep the phosphate very low in the water, either through very frequent changes, or by using something like GFO or lanthanum to take it out of solution as it dissolves off the rock." Randy Holmes-Farley

Who knows how much PO3 was bound to the outer layers of CaCO3 in my dry rock. Perhaps none, I don't know. But I concluded that an acid bath would potentially do more good than harm. So I went with that, and a month long RODI soak with frequent water changes.

It may have done nothing for me, but I have zero detectable PO3 and no algae issues........yet. [emoji848]

Steve, here are some articles on the subject by Randy Holmes-Farley. Personally, I keep them bookmarked and reference them occasionally. They are lengthy, but very informative.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2012/3/chemistry

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/

 

[Steve Dillon]

So my understanding is use GFO on the current tank. And read up and forget the old school routes on any new builds..

 

[CastAway]

Maybe you got lucky?

I have no doubt whatsoever, the results pure dumb luck have in my reefing! LOL

 

[Steve Dillon]

I have no doubt whatsoever, the results pure dumb luck have in my reefing! LOL

Me too Jeff.. lol

 

[Steve Dillon]

If anyone is still following I got the phoslock today. I'll be adding 3.5tbs ( which is 1/2 a dose) tomorrow after the water change and test. After doing some reading my new target is untraceable. No real purpose of doing so just want to see if changes anything to the positive in my tank..

 

[KJ]

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/images/Categoryimages/larger/lg-29677-fish-supply.jpg
Works wonders gave it a try?

 

[Esage]

I added a phosban reactor today and running GFO to lower phosphates

 

[Steve Dillon]

I added a phosban reactor today and running GFO to lower phosphates

What was your levels at? Just curious

 

[Esage]

What was your levels at? Just curious

I don't know. Started getting a cyano and green hair algae breakout that was getting worse. I did a deep cleaning of the sump and the reactor. I only added half the suggested GFO that the BRS calculator suggested. I'll run it for a couple of weeks and go from there.

 

[Steve Dillon]

If you don't mind would you let me know how it does? And how big is your tank?

 

[Esage]

If you don't mind would you let me know how it does? And how big is your tank?

It's about 70 gallons total volume

 

[Steve Dillon]

Well I'm down to 0 and I don't notice any changes.

 

[CastAway]

No detectable PO4 doesn't mean it's not there, it may only mean you're headed in the right direction. See what a few more weeks brings.

GFO exhausts VERY quickly btw; more quickly than most realize. You might consider swapping it out at 30 days, min.

Someone else may have better advice.

 

[Steve Dillon]

I was surprised it went down so quick. I got a monti when I bought the new light and it is growing already. Not that the Phosphate lowering help but I don't think it has hurt.

 

[CastAway]

Even a very small amount of PO4 inhibits calcification, so seeing growth is a good sign. Watch your alk and CA uptake now.

Take a picture of an area of algae growth, so you can see change over time. Pictures really help, as we get so used to seeing our tanks every day.

 

[BlueDevil]

Steve - one thing to remember is that even with GFO if you show 0 PO4 it doesn't always mean that there isn't any PO4. If there is algae, there likely is PO4. The algae is just consuming it. But in the end if things are looking healthy trace amounts of PO4 aren't going to kill anything.

 

[Steve Dillon]

Even a very small amount of PO4 inhibits calcification, so seeing growth is a good sign. Watch your alk and CA uptake now.

Take a picture of an area of algae growth, so you can see change over time. Pictures really help, as we get so used to seeing our tanks every day.

Steve - one thing to remember is that even with GFO if you show 0 PO4 it doesn't always mean that there isn't any PO4. If there is algae, there likely is PO4. The algae is just consuming it. But in the end if things are looking healthy trace amounts of PO4 aren't going to kill anything.

Great advice.. its lighter green.

 

[Esage]

I've been changing my GFO every two weeks. I'm starting to see positive results