phosphate reactor?

glb · Apr 24, 2015

Wiz said:
Ok so I read the phosphate article. And I see my problem is common. I slso see that gfo can be affective. Do you think a reactor is better or is running it in a sock would do the same? And I don't see anything on products like brightwell. I dont quite understam d how they eliminate phosphate without removal.

The reactor is better because it tumbles the media and makes it more effective. But I've heard of people who use it in a bag with no problem at all.

Wiz · Apr 24, 2015

I hate to add more equipment and another pump if its not that necessary. any opinions on if I just put the media in a net shock and put it in between the baffles on my sump forcing flow through it?

Retromagnolia · Apr 24, 2015

You are right my friend. After rescanning the article I read months ago, I realize that it does not actually extract iron from the water. It removes pretty much all other trace metals, my bad.

"What else does iron oxide hydroxide bind? Metals

These materials are known to bind a wide range of other compounds from water, including trace metals, arsenic, selenium,2 silicate, and organics. Metals such as manganese, cobalt, nickel, and zinc are known to bind to iron oxide hydroxide in simulated seawater solutions.4,5 It has also been claimed that the binding of copper and zinc by natural iron oxide hydroxide sediments exerts a powerful control on the concentration of copper and zinc in polluted rivers and estuaries.6 Although not studied in seawater, it has also been observed that phosphate binding by iron oxide hydroxide actually increases its binding of copper, cadmium, and nickel in freshwater.7 " quote from Randy's article.

Apparently the iron in GFO is ferric though, not ferrous. All that I know about the iron situation is that an excess of it has been directly linked to hair algae. Perhaps this is the ferrous iron? Beyond that subject, I do like GFO and I thought the lighting situation could have something to do with it. Didn't hear anyone else bring that subject up yet.

ffcrum · Apr 24, 2015

Yes sorry I left out the lights in my post. In most places I asked about gha the first question they asked was what lighting and when was the last time I replaced the bulbs. I also read on a lot of forums about lighting/GHA and so on. Thought I was going to have to take some college courses. I was at wits end with GHA and only it was only 2 small patches. Got tired of hearing the same answers over and over, changed bulbs water test were all good. Phos test was good. Finally the owner of the local shop I use told me that it had to be a small Amount of phos. He gave me a good price on a 150 reactor, and rowa phos. Pulled it out for the last time, set up the reactor. All good so far knock on wood lol. Its been 4 or 5 months no issues. Imo it only has to be a little. Could of been leaching from rocks idk long as it stays away. Hope you that helps.

soggytees · Apr 24, 2015

Chemical methods like Phosphate Rx are probably the most effective method (you can read Marc Levenson's post here: https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/melevsreef/129798-tired-phosphates.html).

I personally use a gfo/phosguard reactor, refugium, and water changes to keep mine in check.

HTH Good luck!

soggytees · Apr 24, 2015

ffcrum said:
Yes sorry I left out the lights in my post. In most places I asked about gha the first question they asked was what lighting and when was the last time I replaced the bulbs. I also read on a lot of forums about lighting/GHA and so on. Thought I was going to have to take some college courses. I was at wits end with GHA and only it was only 2 small patches. Got tired of hearing the same answers over and over, changed bulbs water test were all good. Phos test was good. Finally the owner of the local shop I use told me that it had to be a small Amount of phos. He gave me a good price on a 150 reactor, and rowa phos. Pulled it out for the last time, set up the reactor. All good so far knock on wood lol. Its been 4 or 5 months no issues. Imo it only has to be a little. Could of been leaching from rocks idk long as it stays away. Hope you that helps.

Bad/old light bulbs are also a common issue leading to algae growth. If lights are the wrong spectrum (which happens as they get older), the algae growth can take off even if phosphates aren't out of control.

Randy Holmes-Farley · Apr 25, 2015

Wiz said:
Sry bout the missing options. I assumed everyone skims. Apparently a bad assumption. Sry. I am vodka dosing which corrected my nitrates pretty fast. And I'm dosing 1/2 a ml now daily. Not much but its keeping the nitrates in check so I don't want to up it. I also grow macros. Grape caulerpa, sawblade caulerpa, chaeto, and small amounts of ulva, red gracialara, and another leafy red. I harvest about half a six inch wide fish bag of mixed algae every month. And I run a carbon sock. But I think the phosphate is still up. Which gfo do you use? Do you know if it has a fair impact? What is your opinion of products like brightwell?

GFO can easily reduce phosphate to your desired goal, or lower (which can be a drawback).

The primary drawback to GFO is expense.

I use GFO from BRS (the regular kind).

Randy Holmes-Farley · Apr 25, 2015

Wiz said:
Ok so I read the phosphate article. And I see my problem is common. I slso see that gfo can be affective. Do you think a reactor is better or is running it in a sock would do the same? And I don't see anything on products like brightwell. I dont quite understam d how they eliminate phosphate without removal.

You likely won't get good use of it in a sock, and a reactor is a better way.

The Brightwell product you are referring is likely lanthanum. It precipitates lanthanum phosphate and carbonate.

scardall · Apr 25, 2015

+1 soggytees. I have a fish Only that's phosphates are .1 ppm but has been over run in hairalgae +4 other macro's. 1+ year old VHO's. 45G tank. Fish are happy. Blue face angel and 12 line wrassee. I have 4 tanks. MY bad. Hey, The REEF Looks fantastic though,( LED's) and it's a 75g. :juggle: not so well.

GreatBrothareef · Apr 26, 2015

I'm not saying this is the issue but one thing that should have definitely been added to the poll is using ro/di water.

Wiz · Apr 26, 2015

Again I assumed everyone does. Sry. :-( why risk dirty water in such an expensive hobby?

GreatBrothareef · Apr 27, 2015

Wiz said:
Again I assumed everyone does

but if thats the case..wouldnt you assume everyone does water changes? I was just saying for the sake of the poll. again not implying you dont and not a big deal but for a new person scrolllin through, this is one of the major ways phosphates are introduced into the aquarium is through water with phosphates already present.

Wiz · Apr 27, 2015

I see your meaning. I should never assume. Especially being that I don't find frequent water changes a must. ;-) lol my bad

Wiz · Apr 28, 2015

Ok so I got brightwell for short term. But I'm getting a reactor. Any advise on brand of reactor or gfo type?.

scardall · Apr 28, 2015

Next Reef's MR1 or MR1 Monster. Bulk Reef Supplies GFO Mid grade ( most economical) or ROWS ( abit better but most expensive)

Wiz · Apr 28, 2015

I was thinking about getting the BRS dual reactor. its the same price as the next Reef with a larger pump and it will cover both carbon and GFO. I haven't found any bad reviews on it. every single type of reactor I've looked up has complained about leaking which worries me. But even the next Reef ones do so guess you can't avoid that. any opinions on the brs dual reactor?

Wiz · Apr 29, 2015

Randy Holmes-Farley said:
GFO can easily reduce phosphate to your desired goal, or lower (which can be a drawback).

The primary drawback to GFO is expense.

I use GFO from BRS (the regular kind).

Do you use a brs reactor? Thinkin about getting one. Also why not the high capasity gfo?

Wiz · Apr 29, 2015

Last chanse to talk me out of a brs reactor. Lol ordering today

scardall · Apr 29, 2015

I've have bought my GFO and Carbon from BRS for years. the lignate carbon is one of the best and $ is right, Plus their GFO is reasonable as well. I don't know the brand of my reactors any more as Id label came of many years ago. (not a common brand name) It has NEVER leaked on me for the past 10 years.

Remember if your connections are not properly used they will leak. Not The Reactor fault ( Proper O-ring Maintenance is Required) they do wear out sometimes. I doubt the reviews about leaks are alll that valid. Place your order and reap the benefits without worry. PS: I buy all my GFO and Carbon from BRS.