Phosphates, how high is too high?

[vlangel]

Hi all, ok I probably shouldn't admit this but yesterday I finally bought a fresh phosphate test along with a nitrate test. I regularly test PH, calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium. My tank is LPS dominant, a few softies and a clam. I never have any algea issues and I know both my corals and clam utilize phosphate for energy so I just never worried about it, even though I knew from a test a few years ago that my phosphates were high. I at that time tested our tap water and it was high. Here comes another confession: I don't use RODI, (I can hear the gasps of horror!). Anyhow yesterday my nitrates were 0, and phosphates were around 1.0 or 2.0 which I know are high but I think they were between 6.0 and 10 a few years ago. I am wondering if my high phosphates is one reason my corals have great growth but not so great color? I'm thinking of adding a little bit of a phosphate remover in a media bag to lower them some but I don't want to lower them drastically and shock the corals or clam. Any suggestions on what to use?

 

[Koaboy]

I'm kind of frustrated when it comes to measuring phosphates. I have either tested, or have had tested, for phosphates using pretty much every method/kit out there. Mine vary from 0 to 1+, depending on what method, test kit, person testing, day of the week, etc. I have seen impossible swings in levels over a couple days at a time by the same test kit and person doing the test (inconsistency). When putting it all together, I have come to the conclusion that I DO have an elevated level of phosphates, but still well below "1". The tank is doing well, however. Everything seems to be happy. So, because I identified a rise in the phosphate level, I run GFO from BRS in a sock under flow. It's only been in there for a week, so the jury is still out. I believe that one should do everything to avoid phosphates, such as: Use RO/DI water at all times. Avoid flaked food. Rinse all other food prior to entering the tank. Look for any other tricks to avoid phosphates. If you have done everything to avoid them, and treat for phosphates the best you can, and your tank appears happy, then you have done all you can in that area. At that point, it is what it is.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Double check your phosphate test methods and kit instructions. Phosphate levels that you mention would stop calcium absorption into the corals and cause them to brown out. You would also need to clean your glass daily of algae....a good indication of a phosphate problem.

You want phosphate at or below 0.03 ppm.

 

[Reefing Madness]

I use SeaKlear to keep my phosphates down. Its made for pools, but its perfectly reef safe. And you can dose in lil capfuls that will draw out alot. Stuff works well.

 

[Reefing Madness]

Double check your phosphate test methods and kit instructions. Phosphate levels that you mention would stop calcium absorption into the corals and cause them to brown out. You would also need to clean your glass daily of algae....a good indication of a phosphate problem.

You want phosphate at or below 0.03 ppm.

I had phosphate readings of 10.0 and didn't have to clean my glass daily, nor did I have any unwanted algae growth. Using 250w Metal Halides. My system was clean, I carbon dosed to keep trates very low, so I believe algae may need both to thrive.

 

[Koaboy]

Not trying to hijack the thread, since this information is useful to answering the question made by vlangel. I used the salifert test kit, followed EXACTLY like the instructions said. The lfs(s) I frequent use kits such as Hanna, etc. My calcium is being used by something in the system. Calcium levels are 500+ right after a 10% weekly water change, and drop to 430-450 over the course of the week. Tank is happy & colorful. I agree that phosphate should be .03, and maybe that's where I am? I have also been told that it should not be "0". Your take on that?

 

[redfishbluefish]

HERE is a good read by Dr. Randy.

 

[vlangel]

HERE is a good read by Dr. Randy.

Thank you, that article is very informative and I will read it again in more detail before I form my plan of attack but I have some ideas to proceed. Thanks again.

 

[Koaboy]

Thank you for the article. I knew flaked food was baaaaad, but had no idea how bad it was. Luckily, it was removed from my feeding rotation a year ago!

 

[redfishbluefish]

Koaboy, don't be fooled by big numbers. The percent phosphorus/phosphate might look high, but in fact it is in line with other foods we feed our fish, including frozen foods. Note that what is reported is "dry weight" percent, so that the numbers in percent dry weight are highly elevated because all the water has been driven off. The percent phosphate to protein (the important number) in flake foods versus other fish foods is virtually the same. So flake food is just fine, and could be argued to be better because a blend of ingredients can be added to give a more balanced diet.

I'll give you one more great read from the good doctor...HERE......this one dispels the believe that frozen foods (any foods), need to be rinsed because of phosphate.....no more rinsing...it does virtually nothing to lower phosphate. You'll also see the comparison of phosphate levels of frozen and flaked foods...again, virtually the same.

 

[Koaboy]

Another interesting article to be saved. Thank you!