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I'm pretty sure that BRS video was done with the old Phosphate checker before the Phosphate ULR checker was out.
I think it was, maybe they will redo the test.
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I'm pretty sure that BRS video was done with the old Phosphate checker before the Phosphate ULR checker was out.
IIRC, the preference for phosphorus over phosphate is the smaller +-% margin of error. Look it up on BRS; I think it is published there for each unit.Just out of curiosity, why do so many people get the Phosphorus Checker instead of the ULR Phosphate Checker? With the ULR Phosphate Checker you don't need to be a mathematician. I'm assuming they are both relatively close in accuracy, maybe the only difference is the Checker does the math for you? I'm not sure.
If everything looks happy I would not do a thing... keeping phosphates stable is just as important as keeping alk stable
I think the 0.03 is the older info and the less than 0.20 is more current. You should be fine with your 0.074 and a water change. In fact, .074 Isn't really high, its good.Everything does look happy .
I found a few parameter charts online .
their suggested levels are a lot different. .
Maybe a old chart ?
It doesn't look like much of a difference:IIRC, the preference for phosphorus over phosphate is the smaller +-% margin of error. Look it up on BRS; I think it is published there for each unit.
Less than .2I think the 0.03 is the older info and the less than 0.20 is more current. You should be fine with your 0.074 and a water change. In fact, .074 Isn't really high, its good.
Use less than .2 as your guide, the hobby has gone in that direction.Less than .2
The other chart suggests .03
0.03ppm phosphate for the first year or two of maturity.Less than .2
The other chart suggests .03
Nice tank, love it....I am in the process of building a 300 to replace my 140.

