Curious how you know yours has or has not become nutrient depleted? How are you measuring this?
Also there is somewhat of a set time to harvest phyto from culture start. It has to do with the cell count of the phytoplankton species you are culturing. There are ways to measure this and each species has a plateau density. Florida aqua farms sells a tool that will give you good estimates of your cell count. There is also a more involved way with a microscope and a hemocytometer. The 6-10 days is often cited because that is the typical range of when the culture has reached its plateau. Factors such as light, temp, and fertilizer can play a role. So having a tool to get an idea on cell count takes some of the guessing out.
For example: say at day 5 you measure and your cell count is approx. 1.3 million. Measure day 6 at 1.5 million. measure day 7 at 1.8 million. Maybe you go another day and find the measurement increases or stays the same. Once it stays about the same the plateau has been reached and its harvest time.
Once a culture has reached a plateau it will crash if left too long before being put into cold storage. If your phyto has lost color then you add more fertilizer and see more color. im willing to bet you are no longer culturing the phytoplankton you think you are. It is easy to grow green water but not as easy to culture solid phytoplankton. You would need a microscope to know for sure.
Yes phyto in cold storage will last up to 30 days for a good culture restart, even up to 90 days. Also, sanitation is actually quite important. Many other microbes and bacterias can out compete and take over a phyto culture. Like i said, growing green water is easy. Culturing a phytoplankton species you intended to grow isnt as easy. Still not that difficult but a bit more care is involved than you have expressed.
I primarily only worry about Iso and Porphy, so if there is ever green in my system something is very very wrong. But yes, I know about the potential of other 'things' growing in it. Literally anyone that cultivates should know this already.
Yes, you are correct about cell count and all of that. I was simply dumbing it down because the 95% of people cultivating do not understand any of that and want the easiest set and forget setup they can have. So, from a generalization standpoint, a simple vinegar scrub and RODI rinse is plenty for your standard person that doesn't want to put the extra effort in. This may be showing "careless ness" as you've expressed, but again, to the typical person it is normal because it is easy.
Your statement about plateau and culture crash and how it needs to be put into cold storage is simply false. A very small amount of f/2 and low light with constant aeration is all it takes to keep them happy for a long time *assuming everything is sanitary, perfectly set up, and it's checked on periodically*, felt I needed to add that for clarification for you. Or you could keep believing the big name brands telling you to refrigerate it that harvest well in advance of shipping and put it into cold storage themselves starting the decay process of the cells, aka death. But hey, what do I know.
We could get super nerdy about it and discuss different methods on how to increase cell density and lipids through light intensity, light color spectrum, nutrients, how many micro mols of what will effect what etc etc. But again, most people don't understand nor care about all of that, only those of us in science fields do.
To answer your question, the cool nerdy way is with a centrifuge plus other laboratory equipment and processes. It's not that difficult but involved, and again, it's in peer reviewed scientific journals as well as detailed information on the typical length of time it takes for Guillard's f/2 to deplete under different conditions. Or if you're low tech just have some pods or other organisms that don't eat the f/2 nutrients eat all the phyto and take a small sample from that. I'm sure any number of test kits will help to approximately determine nutrient levels with this method.