Pic confirmation of false API ammonia readings

[brandon429]

Blanking on non reef water means nothing about the actual sample reef, there’s no nitrification to over report. A calibrated trimmed seneye would show the tank in the thousandths ppm, thats an over report above. The Red Sea after tan conversion is reading right per pics, fish distribution, water clarity, these are the non test proofs for total ammonia control there is no condition that could render the first tank above unable to handle its ammonia.

 

[ScubaSkeets]

Blanking on non reef water means nothing about the actual sample reef, there’s no nitrification to over report. A calibrated trimmed seneye would show the tank in the thousandths ppm, thats an over report above. The Red Sea after tan conversion is reading right per pics, fish distribution, water clarity, these are the non test proofs for total ammonia control there is no condition that could render the first tank above unable to handle its ammonia.

What do you think is causing the ammonia readings on the API? Doesn't there have to be something in the water to cause the dark green color?

Also, Im not saying that there is ammonia in the tank. The fish are fine and there is no ammonia smell, but how do we know that Salifert is not giving false negative readings for whatever API is giving positive readings of?

 

[Dan_P]

This is the API test of straight RODI water (no salt). Test is 0 for ammonia. Doesn't this say that the positive API reading from the tanks mean something is causing it?

To further investigate this, you use a modified version of the API test that produces very little yellow color at zero ammonia and more of a blue color when ammonia is present. Detection level forthis version is below 0.25 ppm ammonia

Place a sample in the API test vial as usual
Add only three drops of reagent A. Mix well.
Add only three drops of reagent B. Miix Immediately.
Let stand one full hour.

The test solution will be cloudy but less than usual. A faint blue color indicates the presence of ammonia. Post a picture and I will help interpret the test results.

 

[Dan_P]

Not sure the kit is capable of reading in a zero salinity solution.
Something I remember reading a way back. I could be wrong.
Can someone confirm the API kit can read NH3 in RO water?

The API test works in freshwater, but the appearance of the solution is slightly different from saltwater.

 

[Dan_P]

Blanking on non reef water means nothing about the actual sample reef, there’s no nitrification to over report. A calibrated trimmed seneye would show the tank in the thousandths ppm, thats an over report above. The Red Sea after tan conversion is reading right per pics, fish distribution, water clarity, these are the non test proofs for total ammonia control there is no condition that could render the first tank above unable to handle its ammonia.

I agree that ammonia shouldn’t be present but this is the first example I saw where API test color was not ambiguous. There are other nitrogen containing compounds that interfere with the test.

Because free ammonia and not ammonium (the API test is measuring NH3+NH4) is the toxic form, there could be ammonium present but the OP’s system pH is low enough to keep the amount of NH3 low. That would be the simplest explanation.

By the way, why are you up so early?

 

[Dan_P]

Because API pushes their products on LFS due to it being cheap/marketable
Should be labelled as not for Reef Use

Inexpensive yes and fast. A modified version of this test which I posted is quite sensitive.

 

[Dan_P]

I'd guess the pH difference is causing the dye color issue, but I make my claim for free and you don't have to buy a kit to get my own best guess.

pH of the aquarium has a minimal effect on the appearance of the color, but can have a large effect on the amount of NH3 (toxic) vs NH4 (nontoxic) that is present.

 

[Karen00]

To further investigate this, you use a modified version of the API test that produces very little yellow color at zero ammonia and more of a blue color when ammonia is present. Detection level forthis version is below 0.25 ppm ammonia

Place a sample in the API test vial as usual
Add only three drops of reagent A. Mix well.
Add only three drops of reagent B. Miix Immediately.
Let stand one full hour.

The test solution will be cloudy but less than usual. A faint blue color indicates the presence of ammonia. Post a picture and I will help interpret the test results.

I know this thread is a little old but I'm having the same issue as the OP. I want to try your test but want to confirm the process. I take a sample (5ml) of my tank water like I normally would but add only 3 drops of each reagent, mix well, then leave for 1 hour. I have the API test kit. It's the freshwater kit but I have the saltwater cards.

 

[Dan_P]

I know this thread is a little old but I'm having the same issue as the OP. I want to try your test but want to confirm the process. I take a sample (5ml) of my tank water like I normally would but add only 3 drops of each reagent, mix well, then leave for 1 hour. I have the API test kit. It's the freshwater kit but I have the saltwater cards.

I did not know that API made a freshwater kit. I thought what they made was for both. Not using the same kit as I did raises the question whether you would reproduce my results.

Secondly, the color cards will not be useful because the color of the modified test will be closer to blue than blue green. The point of using the modification is that it is easier to see “zero” total ammonia which is practically colorless, whereas 0.1 ppm and above will give a bluish color.

Give it a try and post a picture of your test solution if you would like a second opinion on interpreting the results.

 

[Karen00]

I did not know that API made a freshwater kit. I thought what they made was for both. Not using the same kit as I did raises the question whether you would reproduce my results.

Secondly, the color cards will not be useful because the color of the modified test will be closer to blue than blue green. The point of using the modification is that it is easier to see “zero” total ammonia which is practically colorless, whereas 0.1 ppm and above will give a bluish color.

Give it a try and post a picture of your test solution if you would like a second opinion on interpreting the results.

Thanks! Ya, API has a freshwater kit, a saltwater kit and I think a reef specific kit but I think the reef kit just adds a few tests and it's probably assumed you have the saltwater kit for base tests like ammonia, etc. From everything I read ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and I think ph use the same reagents in both kits. The only difference is the color produced hence the different set of cards. The color difference is nominal though.

I will try what you suggested and post. I have cycled so many freshwater tanks and read almost all of the cycling posts here (stalled, skipped, etc) so thought I had a firm grip on the process for my first tank but now I doubt my knowledge. I started with live sand, dry rock and marine pure gems in my sump. I have a bottle of MicroBacter but didn't use it because it said not to if using live sand (maybe I should have?). It's been almost two weeks and ammonia has crept up slightly (.5ppm lime OP) but no movement on nitrite/nitrate. The only difference with this tank is that I have fish. I don't ever do that but got a great deal on a goby/shrimp pair and my tank was only one day old so I was doing daily water changes and dosing prime for the ammonia. I'm not sure what's going on. The goby/shrimp seem fine but I'm terrified to stop dosing prime because I'm still seeing ammonia. I don't know if it's a false reading. Can dosing prime give a false reading?

 

[zoaprince]

I just went through the same and I'm convinced Salifert is broken. Maybe a production issue recently.

I would dose ammonia to my cycling tank and my Salifert test would still come up at 0. API would properly read ammonia.

 

[Dan_P]

Thanks! Ya, API has a freshwater kit, a saltwater kit and I think a reef specific kit but I think the reef kit just adds a few tests and it's probably assumed you have the saltwater kit for base tests like ammonia, etc. From everything I read ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and I think ph use the same reagents in both kits. The only difference is the color produced hence the different set of cards. The color difference is nominal though. I will try what you suggested and post. I have cycled so many freshwater tanks and read almost all of the cycling posts here (stalled, skipped, etc) so thought I had a firm grip on the process for my first tank but now I doubt my knowledge. I started with live sand, dry rock and marine pure gems in my sump. I have a bottle of MicroBacter but didn't use it because it said not to if using live sand (maybe I should have?). It's been almost two weeks and ammonia has crept up slightly (.5ppm lime OP) but no movement on nitrite/nitrate. The only difference with this tank is that I have fish. I don't ever do that but got a great deal on a goby/shrimp pair and my tank was only one day old so I was doing daily water changes and dosing prime for the ammonia. I'm not sure what's going on. The goby/shrimp seem fine but I'm terrified to stop dosing prime because I'm still seeing ammonia. I don't know if it's a false reading. Can dosing prime give a false reading?

Thanks! Ya, API has a freshwater kit, a saltwater kit and I think a reef specific kit but I think the reef kit just adds a few tests and it's probably assumed you have the saltwater kit for base tests like ammonia, etc. From everything I read ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and I think ph use the same reagents in both kits. The only difference is the color produced hence the different set of cards. The color difference is nominal though. I will try what you suggested and post. I have cycled so many freshwater tanks and read almost all of the cycling posts here (stalled, skipped, etc) so thought I had a firm grip on the process for my first tank but now I doubt my knowledge. I started with live sand, dry rock and marine pure gems in my sump. I have a bottle of MicroBacter but didn't use it because it said not to if using live sand (maybe I should have?). It's been almost two weeks and ammonia has crept up slightly (.5ppm lime OP) but no movement on nitrite/nitrate. The only difference with this tank is that I have fish. I don't ever do that but got a great deal on a goby/shrimp pair and my tank was only one day old so I was doing daily water changes and dosing prime for the ammonia. I'm not sure what's going on. The goby/shrimp seem fine but I'm terrified to stop dosing prime because I'm still seeing ammonia. I don't know if it's a false reading. Can dosing prime give a false reading?

Prime only “binds” the ammonia so it does no harm, but in the ammonia tests, the Prime bound ammonia is freed up and reacts with the test chemistry.

If you are worried about ammonia, use Fritz Turbo Start or Bio-Spira. These will rapidly give your aquarium an ammonia oxidizing bacteria population. I don’t know how reliable live sand is, terra incognita for me

Establishing nitrite oxidizing bacteria takes awhile, but that is OK because nitrite is not toxic in saltwater. So don’t swear it. The nitrate cannot be determined accurately while nitrite is present unless you first destroy the nitrite. So, put nitrate concerns on the back burner.

 

[Karen00]

Prime only “binds” the ammonia so it does no harm, but in the ammonia tests, the Prime bound ammonia is freed up and reacts with the test chemistry.

If you are worried about ammonia, use Fritz Turbo Start or Bio-Spira. These will rapidly give your aquarium an ammonia oxidizing bacteria population. I don’t know how reliable live sand is, terra incognita for me

Establishing nitrite oxidizing bacteria takes awhile, but that is OK because nitrite is not toxic in saltwater. So don’t swear it. The nitrate cannot be determined accurately while nitrite is present unless you first destroy the nitrite. So, put nitrate concerns on the back burner.

Thank you so much! I will get the bacteria you mentioned. Under normal circumstances I would not be concerned about ammonia when doing a cycle with no livestock but of course I have some critters so I'm stressing out over them! Ugh!

 

[bizzynewreefs]

I know this thread is a little old but I'm having the same issue as the OP. I want to try your test but want to confirm the process. I take a sample (5ml) of my tank water like I normally would but add only 3 drops of each reagent, mix well, then leave for 1 hour. I have the API test kit. It's the freshwater kit but I have the saltwater cards.

Was it ever tested? Results? Photos?