Picasso's are finally laying !

Thanks, they are pretty little guys. Gonna have to hit Tomoko up for her larvae snagger design again, because they laid eggs on what I'd call a 'foundation rock' in the tank. No way that rock comes out.
 
Gonna have to hit Tomoko up for her larvae snagger design again, because they laid eggs on what I'd call a 'foundation rock' in the tank. No way that rock comes out.

Congratulations!

Here's a picture of my home made snagger.

Larvalsnagger005.jpg


The body of the snagger is a 2 liter coke bottle with its top cut off. I cut a small opening on the body and attached a section of pantyhose with a hot glue gun.

The green pipe is a part of Tetra sponge filter without the spong part, which looks like this:

Larvalsnagger001.jpg


You can make the same thing out of a short section of a PVC pipe and an elbow. You don't need the part with the holes that support a sponge at the bottom.

The airline on the green pipe is connected to a small air pump. Air from the pump will send water up the vertical pipe and come out from the elbow at the top, falling into the coke bottle. The excess water will go out through the pantyhose on the side.

I had an acrylic strip which was made into a hanger (to hang the bottle at the side of my 120) and attached it to the coke bottle with a nylon screw and a nylon wing nut.

Then, I placed a small wattage LED and appropriate size watch battery that I bought from Radioshack to the outside of the tank near the bottom opening of the green pipe to light up the bottom opening of the pipe at night. I simply taped the LED lamp and the watch battery with scotch tape at the side of the tank until all the larvae went into the coke bottle.

The important thing is to use a very small wattage LED so that the tank won't be lit up well. You need only small amount of light to lure the clownfish larvae to the bottom opening of the pipe. The larvae will be sucked into the pipe, go up the pipe with air and water mixture, and be delivered into the coke bottle without harm.

As you may know very well, clownfish larvae hatch at night shortly after the light goes out. It usually took close to one hour after the tank (actually the whole room) went dark. One time (only once) they came up right after the light turned off.

I usually raised my clownfish larvae in green water. Green water kept the water clean and fed rotifers and other planktons until they are eaten by the larvae.

Do you have live rotifers ready? I can bring you some if you need them. You need them for one to two weeks until they start eating bbs or Otohime. If you don't have Otohime, you need to get some. Otohime A, B, and C are fantastic food for raising clownfish to sellable size quickly.
 
Last edited:
You can see my old posting about raising clownfish babies on the other forum. I have a video clip with the snagger in operation there. I hope you can see this thread.

The thread shows the older version of snagger support. I initially attached it to the tank with a clamp and a flash light. It worked well, but a acrylic strip hanger and a LED lamp worked much better.
 
Last edited:
So I was thinking after reading your other thread Tomako. Why coudl you just not create a fry tank that is fed with water the same way as the fry catcher and have it constantly circulating water this way from the DT then flowing back to the DT? this would seem to me to have 1. the ability to continue to catch rotifers and such in your water column at night and also provide a constant source of clean water for the little buggers. I am no expert by any means and the water may just be too clean.
 
So I was thinking after reading your other thread Tomako.

Ah, my name is Tomoko.

Why coudl you just not create a fry tank that is fed with water the same way as the fry catcher and have it constantly circulating water this way from the DT then flowing back to the DT? this would seem to me to have 1. the ability to continue to catch rotifers and such in your water column at night and also provide a constant source of clean water for the little buggers. I am no expert by any means and the water may just be too clean.

It's best to keep fry in their own fry tank initially because you need a high density of rotifers or bbs. Circulating water between the fry tank and display would reduce the rotifer density to the point that fry has to swim around a lot to capture them. After metamorphosis, they are lot sturdier and can swim a lot better. After 30 days when they start eating prepared food such as Otohime C, I don't have any problem tying their tank with the display tank at this point.

I also like to use phytoplankton in the larval tank to keep the water clean. It helps the fry greatly. If I connect the tank with the display tank, I won't be able to maintain high enough density of phytoplankton to do any good.

Another reason is the quality of water in the fry tank. The water in a fry tank gets dirty really quick and you don't want the dirty water going back into your display tank. We feed fry with tons of food a few times a day. A lot of breeders do a huge water change frequently (daily) otherwise your ammonia and nitrate level will get pretty high. If you connect your fry tank with your reef tank, your reef tank will probably sulk.

On the other hand, when I bred Bengeii cardinalfish, I divided my breeding tank (parent's tank) with a tank divider and kept the fry and its babysitter sea urchin in one side. The number of fry are much less (20 - 25 vs. 300 to 400) and the total amount of live food is much less as well. Baby cardinals eat much larger food right away and they swim very well from the very start to capture live food well.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top